New Hybrid . .. soft floor .. is this normal?

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by CountryKim

We traded in our 2011 19H for this very reason. We noticed the floors were soft in certain areas at the end of our first camping season. Last spring we took it in to be repaired under warranty and it was not able to be fixed at the dealer. The luan/foam/luan sandwich construction was causing it. The top layer of luan was compressing into the foam. It was noticeable when you stepped on it and you could actually see the edge of the luan under the vinyl. It was becoming soft in 3 areas, at the doorway, at the stove/sink area and by the sofa. They were going to send it back to Jayco for the repairs as the entire floor needed to be pulled up and then they were going to put another layer of luan down. Originally it was supposed to be ripped up and seamed in the bathroom door way which was unacceptable to us. It was a brand new trailer and we didn't want a seam in the floor. Also because the floor is done first and everything is laid on top of it there would have to be quarter round installed on all edges of the floor. We ended up trading it in. We felt this was a big thing to go wrong with a new trailer and didn't want to chance it once it was out of warranty.

This has been an ongoing problem for years with the ultralites and the luan/foam sandwich floors industry wide. That was one reason I went with a Jayflight over a lighter trailer because the Jayflights use 5/8" plywood floors. Not only are they stronger, they are much easier to repair if necessary because there are joists every 16" on center to support the plywood if a piece had to be cut out from water damage, etc. There are almost always compromises made when weight is reduced....

[amabee]

Yep, that's also how our Starcraft floor is made, had the same thoughts. Would be much easier to fix if need be. It does make the Travelstar hybrids a little heavier, but not much.

[jaycocaper]

Thank you everyone for your feedback.

I contacted Jayco on Monday, September 16 via their online customer service form. Received an email the same day saying my concerns were forwarded to the appropriate customer service rep and they would contact us. So far, have not heard a word. From some of the feedback I am reading, I am beginning to think this is going to be an uphill battle. One person replied that the dealer contacted Jayco and the problem was within their acceptable standards. How can that be? I've talked to a few owners of the same trailer I have, a hybrid 23B, and some have been in my trailer, and all say there is something wrong with the floor and they have not experienced this softness / bending at the floor seams. Convenient for Jayco to say this problem, in a brand new trailer, is within their standards. I have made a huge investment in my RV, as you all have, the second new Jayco trailer I've purchased within four years, and will not accept this being within acceptable standards, if that is what they tell me. As I said, I have other owners of 23B's and other owner of ultra-lite Jayco's report that their floor is not like this - so there certainly is a problem.

Thanks again everyone .. I appreciate this forum.

[mwebber78]

Let me start by saying this isn't inherent to a composite floor, it's inherent to JAYCO composite floors. I had a 2011 Forest River Class C before my current unit - it had a 3" composite floor that moved the same or LESS then the plywood decking on my Eagle (which barely moves even when the kids are chasing each other!) The difference is in the thickness of luan used, top and bottom, and the spacing of the floor joists. Sometimes it seems to save literally 10 pounds of extra tubular aluminum floor bracing Jayco will place a joist every two feet. Compare that to a Rockwood Roo and the diagram of their composite floor - it's thicker and the joists are no more then 16" OC.

[jaycocaper]

Floor Joists? I can see the luan/foam/luan sandwich underneath my kitchen sink by the wheel well. There is a small space there by the wheel well that I can feel the floor. Where are the floor joists? Underneath my trailer there are no floor supports across the floor underneath. I was just out washing the trailer today and underneath i only have the main frame and one or two supports going across, but not near the floor. From the front of the trailer to the back, there does not appear to be any floor bracing. Are they inside the floor? When I look underneath I just see the black flooring and I can see the seams where two pieces meet. Is this normal? Thanks

[amabee]

The aluminum framework is inside the floor, it is all glued and pressed together. I also noticed the lack of cross members between the frame rails. It sounds to me like your floor is delaminating, I would keep pushing Jayco and your dealer to get this fixed.

[MrKong]

I just got a reply from Jayco when I asked them about what the dealer said about it being normal.

It sounds like the softness in the floor is attributed to customer use, which is typical with this type of floor in a high traffic area. I will note this in your unit file for future reference. I don't believe there is any need for concern here and would continue using with no worries.

So I guess I am just going to have to wait until I fall through the floor to see if they will fix it.

[Hitch Pin]

Originally Posted by Hitch Pin

Hi all

Our new 2013 Jay Feather Ultra Lite 221 has the very same thing going on with the floor, I called Jayco and they said that they have had others with the same problem, they are going to take up the linoleum and overlay the floor with 1/4" plywood and over lap the existing seams, and then put down new linoleum. The said this is what they have been doing and it does a good job.

Hi All

Here's a update on our soft floor. Jayco took out everything on the inside to the bare walls, then took up the linoleum, overlaid the floor with 1/4" hardwood plywood over lapping the existing seams, and put down new linoleum. Rock solid.

[exjay1]

We are getting a soft spot in front of the sink with maybe a 1/4" of deflection. I sure when its time I will just pull up the dinette seating area and lay 1/4" plywood and re-carpet. Not much I can do since its going on 9yrs old and sure aint going to pay to have this done.

[chriscowles]

I'm in preliminary stages of shopping for a hybrid. The X19H looks like it will fit our needs but this issue about floor construction is concerning. Has Jayco not taken steps to improve the design?

[Frank Rader]

I have a 2008 Jayco 17c Ex-port hybrid purchased in Sep, 2009. We've camped in 38 states over 240 nights. Our soft floor is now a major problem. The linoleum is cracked from flexing and I face either covering the floor with structural plywood after removing linoleum or junking the camper. I'm told it cannot be repaired other than at the factory where they lift off the top, put down a new sheet of sandwich floor, and drop the top back on and that will cost, probably more than the camper's value.

I'm starting on this issue but advise any flexible flooring be immediately brought to manufacture attention and replacements, multiple probably, be installed.

[Hitch Pin]

Here’s what you my be up against , the load capacity on those trailers are not very much to start with. using plywood that would be thick enough to stiffen the floor would kill your load capacity, the mane problem with the floor is that there is not enough supports under it.

[Frank Rader]

2008 Jayco 17c Ex-port hybrid purchased in Sep, 2009. We've camped in 38 states over 240 nights.
Thanks. You make a good point, and I am aware of gross weight. Keep these thoughts coming.
Some considerations, and I'd like opinions. Some of this may be a new thread.
Gross weight on my unit is 3,500 pounds including tires, wheels and lug nuts. HOWEVER in MY OPINION the tires, wheels and lug nuts could weigh 5,000 lbs, each and not impact what the axle will carry. So when I weigh my unit on the scale (3,540 last time) I subtract 90 lbs of tires, wheels and nuts and am within gross limit of 3,500. Note: I've changed from Jayco OEM of 13" wheel, and 185 13" bias factory to 14" wheel and 225 radial because factory OEM 185 13" bias cannot be bought in the wild and radial does not carry the weight so I moved to larger, heavier, common tire that can be bought and carries weight. There is a 170 lb weight difference in a 185 13" bias and 185 13' radial, in favor of bias, but bias cannot be found. By moving to '14 225 radial rated 1,740 lbs I stopped throwing radial treads off 185's and blowing 185 bias.

Two: I've taken spare off camper and carry in truck. -34# OEM.

Three: We'll take off camper stores necessary to weigh 3,500 minus wheels, lugs and tires.

[slabat]

This camper is out of warranty so I would not be concerned about the warranty. I am thinking that the weight limit really has to do with either the axels or the frame. If it is the frame you can have it re-inforced to handle the additional weight. If it is the axel you can have that replaced. I would figure out which one it was and have that upgraded and then put in the plywood, its going to be cheaper than a new trailer and you will have a better RV....just my thoughts

[Crabman]

I would also go with the plywood and new linoleum over the existing floor, try to get several more years out of it. You may also be able to shore it up from underneath by adding some additional supports.

[Frank Rader]

Thanks for the comments. The Dexter axle limit is 3,500 lbs so I'm thinking that is the base number and the frame is engineered to that limit, or higher.

I do not think I can get a firm floor, but do want a sturdy floor, the difference being the floor may give but not deteriorate.

Added thought, and I may post pictures, is to start with 1/4 plywood to see what that does for floor strength and camper weight. There is some strength left in the OEM floor. If that is not sufficient I can either cover it with another 1/4 to see what that does for weight and stiffness and/or go to 3/8 plywood.

Before I do anything I'm going to gather all these comments and have a clear plan, then call Jayco and ask factory what is the strength of the luan/foam/luan sandwich they used in 2008 and can they do it and for how much.

Also, I'm going under the camper to see what options exist for adding joists/ribs/supports and where.

Please keep the thinking and comments coming.

[wags999]

May want to look into 1/4 Baltic Birch plywood. Will cost more but is substantially stronger than fir plywood. Also will give a great surface for your new floor. They also make it in 3/8" and 1/2" if you need. Baltic Birch has no voids in the core and will have more plys.

[Frank Rader]

Great suggestion! I'll copy this to my contractor/friend now. My wife disagrees, but I do not see the need to put down linoleum onto the overlay if it looks decent.

[wags999]

I would put a good poly or varnish if your not going to do any other flooring. It's a great look, have not done floors in it tho. I build drawers, cabinets etc with it all the time. Just did some cabinets for my shop from BB today.

[Frank Rader]

Thanks, again. Wonderful thoughts and comforting to discover you know materials. Where is Surprise? Maybe I surprise you with a camper visit and work on this???

I'm very comfortable with talent locally. I know a NASCAR metal worker who can do more bracing, if we go that route. I have a very good contractor who has tools and experience to cut and fit precisely and is problem solving clever. The Jayco dealer nearest me is excellent, if needed and the ACE is the former salesman there no working daily 3 miles from where I live.

My thought is always, how to turn the problem (flooring failure) into a benefit (functioning, good looking, floors) and I'm thinking what you've said plus some small mats and area rugs we take out to clean.

I am not looking for a ten year solution. I am looking to stop damage, mitigate current condition and be serviceable a year at a time. Still, I figure this has a 25% chance of success. It worth a shot.