New Hybrid . .. soft floor .. is this normal?

[Tunce the traveler]

Good idea, hate to think of it passing up our " count to a million" post.

[Frank Rader]

Internet searching yielded
> Baltic Birch (BB) 4x8 1/4 5 ply weighs 21 lbs. 3/8 7 ply 32 lbs. 4x8 sheets use Exterior grade wide temp glue (Phenol). 5x5 sheet use interior glue (Urea).

> Standard Jayco fix is remove vinyl, put on added 1/4" hardwood plywood, cover with new vinyl (as stated several times in this thread). Here and elsewhere it says that leaves a flexing floor and reads to me as a marginal solution.

Thus I'll go with 3/8 BB 4x8 sheet. I'll weigh vinyl removed to calculate a net weight change. If I can, I'll weigh camper on scales before and after. I'll not put new vinyl down but will polyurethane the 3/8. What is missing is I've not been under the camper, but earlier trips under and reviewing those photos do not seem positive towards adding floor bracing. To remain under factory gross weight I'll transfer from camper to truck bed things in camper storage like the "pop up gizmos" and/or the 2nd of two 20# propane tanks or my dirty laundry.

[Frank Rader]

And the plan is to stop typing and get cutting. . . . . .

Weigh Camper, maybe.
Go under the camper to see what we can see and what we might do. Maybe an aluminum brace or two.
Take out everything not attached, cushions, bathroom door, stuff under sink, and inspect carefully. I’ll get a moisture meter if I can. Measure and mark what areas need attention.
Cut out floor vinyl where indicated, which will be most (hopefully not bathroom), weigh and discard. Carefully inspect everywhere marking moisture tracks.
Seal where indicated. New air conditioner gasket, too. Get camper very dry and ventilated.
Get 3/8 Baltic Birch plywood and cut pieces to fit. Since there is nothing to attach to, cut for tight fit. Probably the whole main floor so we do not have a 3/8” drop off in camper.
Install and tighten with small wedges or trim and maybe clear caulk.
Finish sand if needed and polyurothane and ventilate, ventilate, ventilate. No Vinyl.
Weigh camper.

[Hitch Pin]

Originally Posted by Frank Rader

Internet searching yielded
> Baltic Birch (BB) 4x8 1/4 5 ply weighs 21 lbs. 3/8 7 ply 32 lbs. 4x8 sheets use Exterior grade wide temp glue (Phenol). 5x5 sheet use interior glue (Urea).

> Standard Jayco fix is remove vinyl, put on added 1/4" hardwood plywood, cover with new vinyl (as stated several times in this thread). Here and elsewhere it says that leaves a flexing floor and reads to me as a marginal solution.

Thus I'll go with 3/8 BB 4x8 sheet. I'll weigh vinyl removed to calculate a net weight change. If I can, I'll weigh camper on scales before and after. I'll not put new vinyl down but will polyurethane the 3/8. What is missing is I've not been under the camper, but earlier trips under and reviewing those photos do not seem positive towards adding floor bracing. To remain under factory gross weight I'll transfer from camper to truck bed things in camper storage like the "pop up gizmos" and/or the 2nd of two 20# propane tanks or my dirty laundry.

Don't forget the weight of the glue, it takes a lot of glue and it will add more than you think.

[Frank Rader]

At this point in planning I am not planning much, maybe no, glue. We shall see. Thanks for the point.

I'm leaving this thread to begin a new thread "DIY soft sandwich floor fix"

[SecretCoveDave]

graduate school here we come. Thanks for putting in the effort FrankRader

[Frank Rader]

So I opened a new thread and cannot find it now.

Short answer to problem is simple. I plan to get two sheets of 4x8 hardwood plywood, preferably the baltic birch for strength and looks. I'll finish the good side with polyurethane then cover the roughly 12' x 5' floor completely (not including bathroom) directly over the existing, though torn, vinyl. There will be two straight butt joints. There will be three router edges where the floor is feathered to existing floor to go into bathroom and where the overplayed floor meets the flared metal piece at the camper entrance and where the floor goes under an access panel that allows 1'4" clearance.

I'd planned using 3/8" Baltic Birch but neither Lowes Hardware, Home Depot or local supplier Hoke Lumber have any 3/8" hardwood plywood. Weight added is about 60 lbs which will be compensated by moving things carried on the camper to things carried in the truck.

I've measured and drawn cut lines on the vinyl floor (I have a picture I can post if I know how) and figured out the cost of renting a table saw and router is more with more hassle than hiring a guy to come over in his truck to make the cuts, which must be straight and I plan to simply butt tightly together. The cut pattern is very simple. For a guy with a table saw and router this is a 1/2 day DYI job yielding, I hope, a solid floor that can be removed it needed.

[Hitch Pin]

I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, but I don't think this will fix your soft floor. I hope it does, a lot of the problem is there's not enough support's under the floor.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Frank Rader

So I opened a new thread and cannot find it now.

Short answer to problem is simple. I plan to get two sheets of 4x8 hardwood plywood, preferably the baltic birch for strength and looks. I'll finish the good side with polyurethane then cover the roughly 12' x 5' floor completely (not including bathroom) directly over the existing, though torn, vinyl. There will be two straight butt joints. There will be three router edges where the floor is feathered to existing floor to go into bathroom and where the overplayed floor meets the flared metal piece at the camper entrance and where the floor goes under an access panel that allows 1'4" clearance.

I'd planned using 3/8" Baltic Birch but neither Lowes Hardware, Home Depot or local supplier Hoke Lumber have any 3/8" hardwood plywood. Weight added is about 60 lbs which will be compensated by moving things carried on the camper to things carried in the truck.

I've measured and drawn cut lines on the vinyl floor (I have a picture I can post if I know how) and figured out the cost of renting a table saw and router is more with more hassle than hiring a guy to come over in his truck to make the cuts, which must be straight and I plan to simply butt tightly together. The cut pattern is very simple. For a guy with a table saw and router this is a 1/2 day DYI job yielding, I hope, a solid floor that can be removed it needed.

Look on your profile page and click on "Find all threads started by Frank Rader". There are no threads there.

[Frank Rader]

Thanks for the comment and you are not a stick in the mud. Every comment helps, though what I've learned is more doing, less typing, so I got a 2' x 4" piece of 1/2 inch hardwood plywood at Home Depot today to try over the soft spots. I did not know they sold that size and it is fine for testing. I might test an 11/32 piece, too.

The 1/2 worked well but showed what may be an unevenness over the 8' length that includes the area in front of the sink. I'll put a long level or straight edge on that tomorrow. The result is turning the OM floor into sub floor. Another test for tomorrow is spanning some 30" separated supports with the test piece and standing on it to test strength and deflection.

[Frank Rader]

For those not worn out with this thread, an update.

We are searching our area, Mooresville NC, for the right material. Neither Home Depot or Lowes carries what our testing says we need. 1/2" 7 ply birch (or maybe another hardwood) 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. We are checking specialty lumberyards for that product, or a substitute. Any leads are appreciated.

Testing: purchased, then returned 2 x 4 sized pieces of .45 mm, 1/2, 23/32 mm and 3/4" wood, placing each on test joists 30" apart and standing on them. Less flex = best. These are 1/4 the size of 4 x 8 sheet. Comparing strength, weight & look, 1/2" was best. 3/4" was stronger by a bit, but way heavier. A key is the number of plys, more is better as in tires, and the material. The 1/2" 7 ply Birch we like is sold 2 x 4 because cabinet makers like it. "Flooring strength" plywood is sold 4 x 8 feet but is 3/4".

Floor coverage will be 100%. We worked out a pattern that has 8' length spanning maximum "joists" with 5 pieces, like puzzle, covering floor to "lock" each piece in and for a consistent look. What we are doing is overlaying the OEM sandwich floor completely turning the OEM floor into a subfloor.

Once we find material and install I'll report back and post pictures, once I figure how pictures work on this.

[wags999]

Originally Posted by Frank Rader

For those not worn out with this thread, an update.

We are searching our area, Mooresville NC, for the right material. Neither Home Depot or Lowes carries what our testing says we need. 1/2" 7 ply birch (or maybe another hardwood) 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. We are checking specialty lumberyards for that product, or a substitute. Any leads are appreciated.

Testing: purchased, then returned 2 x 4 sized pieces of .45 mm, 1/2, 23/32 mm and 3/4" wood, placing each on test joists 30" apart and standing on them. Less flex = best. These are 1/4 the size of 4 x 8 sheet. Comparing strength, weight & look, 1/2" was best. 3/4" was stronger by a bit, but way heavier. A key is the number of plys, more is better as in tires, and the material. The 1/2" 7 ply Birch we like is sold 2 x 4 because cabinet makers like it. "Flooring strength" plywood is sold 4 x 8 feet but is 3/4".

Floor coverage will be 100%. We worked out a pattern that has 8' length spanning maximum "joists" with 5 pieces, like puzzle, covering floor to "lock" each piece in and for a consistent look. What we are doing is overlaying the OEM sandwich floor completely turning the OEM floor into a subfloor.

Once we find material and install I'll report back and post pictures, once I figure how pictures work on this.

Do a search for distributors of "Baltic Birch, or Apple Ply" those are brand names. If all else fails, speak to a local cabinet shop, they will be able to give you the name of a supplier or order it for you. Not sure who the wholesale distributors are in your area...Roberts Plywood pehaps? Come to Az and I can tell you who has it in stock Good luck.

[Nate]

Originally Posted by mitechie

I've got a soft spot right in front of the stove area of my x23b. I plan on bringing it up during the trailers appt next week. The rest seems pretty solid and I just assumed it's my heft + a seam or something. I'll be curious what they say when I bring it in.

Around the same spot on my '13 X23B. Seems a common issue. I think it is due to the lightweight construction and my 240 pounds of weight. Everything is solid and dry, no water damage, no nothing. I think it is just the way it is made. I'm going to continue to not worry about it.

[glsimms]

Originally Posted by Nate

Around the same spot on my '13 X23B. Seems a common issue. I think it is due to the lightweight construction and my 240 pounds of weight. Everything is solid and dry, no water damage, no nothing. I think it is just the way it is made. I'm going to continue to not worry about it.

I'm right there with ya Nate as far as ..... ummm.... my weight goes.

[sebring96hbg]

Mine has a soft spot just before the oven as there is a crossbeam in line with the oven to support it and the microwave. As luck would have it, the soft spot is aligned with a seam. The other solid spot is in line with the fridge, of course.

[weekendwarrior]

Hey Frank, any luck on finding that birch? Having that issue now with my 2013 x23b. It's starting to get pretty bad and Ive got quite a few days left this season, so I'm going to have to do something pretty soon. Debating on whether to add additional supposed underneath or additional plywood on top like you are doing.

[MNWild]

We have a 2011 x19h and solid here also

[DebraWhite]

Hi there - we are looking at purchasing a 2015 Jay Feather x254 but are concerned with the floor. The floor really flexes when you come in the door, when you walk into the bathroom, when you walk in front of the stove you feel a solid ridge, then you walk in front of the sink and you dip back down again. When I look under the trailer you can see it flex when the person stands in certain areas. When I asked about this the people selling the trailer said that Jayco has said this is normal because the trailer is light because they use a very light flooring. I can't see this as being normal - the trailer is only 2 years old. Does anybody own a J feather with this type of flooring who has found that it flexes?

[Sundancer330]

Originally Posted by DebraWhite

Hi there - we are looking at purchasing a 2015 Jay Feather x254 but are concerned with the floor. The floor really flexes when you come in the door, when you walk into the bathroom, when you walk in front of the stove you feel a solid ridge, then you walk in front of the sink and you dip back down again. When I look under the trailer you can see it flex when the person stands in certain areas. When I asked about this the people selling the trailer said that Jayco has said this is normal because the trailer is light because they use a very light flooring. I can't see this as being normal - the trailer is only 2 years old. Does anybody own a J feather with this type of flooring who has found that it flexes?

If the floor has that much flex I would not buy it. Even if it is a light weight trailer the floor should feel the same all over, sounds like a moisture issue that is breaking down the floor causing soft spots.

[bedrck46]

I would agree with Sundancer330and walk away from this TT
The only reason that the seller is telling you that it is normal is to get rid of his lemon.
Take the time and call Jayco to see what they have to say Also talk to a dealer and get his input.


The floors in the Jayco hybrids are bonded together and should be of the same firmness through out the whole floor. Soft spots indicate a water or moisture problem