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Old 03-15-2015, 09:31 PM   #31
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I have a 2008 Jayco 17c Ex-port hybrid purchased in Sep, 2009. We've camped in 38 states over 240 nights. Our soft floor is now a major problem. The linoleum is cracked from flexing and I face either covering the floor with structural plywood after removing linoleum or junking the camper. I'm told it cannot be repaired other than at the factory where they lift off the top, put down a new sheet of sandwich floor, and drop the top back on and that will cost, probably more than the camper's value.

I'm starting on this issue but advise any flexible flooring be immediately brought to manufacture attention and replacements, multiple probably, be installed.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:54 PM   #32
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Here’s what you my be up against , the load capacity on those trailers are not very much to start with. using plywood that would be thick enough to stiffen the floor would kill your load capacity, the mane problem with the floor is that there is not enough supports under it.
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:11 PM   #33
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2008 Jayco 17c Ex-port hybrid purchased in Sep, 2009. We've camped in 38 states over 240 nights.
Thanks. You make a good point, and I am aware of gross weight. Keep these thoughts coming.
Some considerations, and I'd like opinions. Some of this may be a new thread.
Gross weight on my unit is 3,500 pounds including tires, wheels and lug nuts. HOWEVER in MY OPINION the tires, wheels and lug nuts could weigh 5,000 lbs, each and not impact what the axle will carry. So when I weigh my unit on the scale (3,540 last time) I subtract 90 lbs of tires, wheels and nuts and am within gross limit of 3,500. Note: I've changed from Jayco OEM of 13" wheel, and 185 13" bias factory to 14" wheel and 225 radial because factory OEM 185 13" bias cannot be bought in the wild and radial does not carry the weight so I moved to larger, heavier, common tire that can be bought and carries weight. There is a 170 lb weight difference in a 185 13" bias and 185 13' radial, in favor of bias, but bias cannot be found. By moving to '14 225 radial rated 1,740 lbs I stopped throwing radial treads off 185's and blowing 185 bias.

Two: I've taken spare off camper and carry in truck. -34# OEM.

Three: We'll take off camper stores necessary to weigh 3,500 minus wheels, lugs and tires.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:00 PM   #34
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This camper is out of warranty so I would not be concerned about the warranty. I am thinking that the weight limit really has to do with either the axels or the frame. If it is the frame you can have it re-inforced to handle the additional weight. If it is the axel you can have that replaced. I would figure out which one it was and have that upgraded and then put in the plywood, its going to be cheaper than a new trailer and you will have a better RV....just my thoughts
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:20 PM   #35
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I would also go with the plywood and new linoleum over the existing floor, try to get several more years out of it. You may also be able to shore it up from underneath by adding some additional supports.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:25 PM   #36
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Thanks for the comments. The Dexter axle limit is 3,500 lbs so I'm thinking that is the base number and the frame is engineered to that limit, or higher.

I do not think I can get a firm floor, but do want a sturdy floor, the difference being the floor may give but not deteriorate.

Added thought, and I may post pictures, is to start with 1/4 plywood to see what that does for floor strength and camper weight. There is some strength left in the OEM floor. If that is not sufficient I can either cover it with another 1/4 to see what that does for weight and stiffness and/or go to 3/8 plywood.

Before I do anything I'm going to gather all these comments and have a clear plan, then call Jayco and ask factory what is the strength of the luan/foam/luan sandwich they used in 2008 and can they do it and for how much.

Also, I'm going under the camper to see what options exist for adding joists/ribs/supports and where.

Please keep the thinking and comments coming.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:51 AM   #37
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May want to look into 1/4 Baltic Birch plywood. Will cost more but is substantially stronger than fir plywood. Also will give a great surface for your new floor. They also make it in 3/8" and 1/2" if you need. Baltic Birch has no voids in the core and will have more plys.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:54 AM   #38
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Great suggestion! I'll copy this to my contractor/friend now. My wife disagrees, but I do not see the need to put down linoleum onto the overlay if it looks decent.
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:49 AM   #39
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I would put a good poly or varnish if your not going to do any other flooring. It's a great look, have not done floors in it tho. I build drawers, cabinets etc with it all the time. Just did some cabinets for my shop from BB today.
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Old 03-17-2015, 06:37 AM   #40
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Thanks, again. Wonderful thoughts and comforting to discover you know materials. Where is Surprise? Maybe I surprise you with a camper visit and work on this???

I'm very comfortable with talent locally. I know a NASCAR metal worker who can do more bracing, if we go that route. I have a very good contractor who has tools and experience to cut and fit precisely and is problem solving clever. The Jayco dealer nearest me is excellent, if needed and the ACE is the former salesman there no working daily 3 miles from where I live.

My thought is always, how to turn the problem (flooring failure) into a benefit (functioning, good looking, floors) and I'm thinking what you've said plus some small mats and area rugs we take out to clean.

I am not looking for a ten year solution. I am looking to stop damage, mitigate current condition and be serviceable a year at a time. Still, I figure this has a 25% chance of success. It worth a shot.
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