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Old 03-19-2015, 07:03 PM   #61
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Good idea, hate to think of it passing up our " count to a million" post.
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Old 03-21-2015, 05:42 AM   #62
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Internet searching yielded
> Baltic Birch (BB) 4x8 1/4 5 ply weighs 21 lbs. 3/8 7 ply 32 lbs. 4x8 sheets use Exterior grade wide temp glue (Phenol). 5x5 sheet use interior glue (Urea).

> Standard Jayco fix is remove vinyl, put on added 1/4" hardwood plywood, cover with new vinyl (as stated several times in this thread). Here and elsewhere it says that leaves a flexing floor and reads to me as a marginal solution.

Thus I'll go with 3/8 BB 4x8 sheet. I'll weigh vinyl removed to calculate a net weight change. If I can, I'll weigh camper on scales before and after. I'll not put new vinyl down but will polyurethane the 3/8. What is missing is I've not been under the camper, but earlier trips under and reviewing those photos do not seem positive towards adding floor bracing. To remain under factory gross weight I'll transfer from camper to truck bed things in camper storage like the "pop up gizmos" and/or the 2nd of two 20# propane tanks or my dirty laundry.
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Old 03-21-2015, 06:03 AM   #63
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And the plan is to stop typing and get cutting. . . . . .

Weigh Camper, maybe.
Go under the camper to see what we can see and what we might do. Maybe an aluminum brace or two.
Take out everything not attached, cushions, bathroom door, stuff under sink, and inspect carefully. I’ll get a moisture meter if I can. Measure and mark what areas need attention.
Cut out floor vinyl where indicated, which will be most (hopefully not bathroom), weigh and discard. Carefully inspect everywhere marking moisture tracks.
Seal where indicated. New air conditioner gasket, too. Get camper very dry and ventilated.
Get 3/8 Baltic Birch plywood and cut pieces to fit. Since there is nothing to attach to, cut for tight fit. Probably the whole main floor so we do not have a 3/8” drop off in camper.
Install and tighten with small wedges or trim and maybe clear caulk.
Finish sand if needed and polyurothane and ventilate, ventilate, ventilate. No Vinyl.
Weigh camper.
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Old 03-21-2015, 09:26 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Rader View Post
Internet searching yielded
> Baltic Birch (BB) 4x8 1/4 5 ply weighs 21 lbs. 3/8 7 ply 32 lbs. 4x8 sheets use Exterior grade wide temp glue (Phenol). 5x5 sheet use interior glue (Urea).

> Standard Jayco fix is remove vinyl, put on added 1/4" hardwood plywood, cover with new vinyl (as stated several times in this thread). Here and elsewhere it says that leaves a flexing floor and reads to me as a marginal solution.

Thus I'll go with 3/8 BB 4x8 sheet. I'll weigh vinyl removed to calculate a net weight change. If I can, I'll weigh camper on scales before and after. I'll not put new vinyl down but will polyurethane the 3/8. What is missing is I've not been under the camper, but earlier trips under and reviewing those photos do not seem positive towards adding floor bracing. To remain under factory gross weight I'll transfer from camper to truck bed things in camper storage like the "pop up gizmos" and/or the 2nd of two 20# propane tanks or my dirty laundry.
Don't forget the weight of the glue, it takes a lot of glue and it will add more than you think.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:37 PM   #65
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At this point in planning I am not planning much, maybe no, glue. We shall see. Thanks for the point.

I'm leaving this thread to begin a new thread "DIY soft sandwich floor fix"
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:10 PM   #66
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graduate school here we come. Thanks for putting in the effort FrankRader
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:23 AM   #67
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So I opened a new thread and cannot find it now.

Short answer to problem is simple. I plan to get two sheets of 4x8 hardwood plywood, preferably the baltic birch for strength and looks. I'll finish the good side with polyurethane then cover the roughly 12' x 5' floor completely (not including bathroom) directly over the existing, though torn, vinyl. There will be two straight butt joints. There will be three router edges where the floor is feathered to existing floor to go into bathroom and where the overplayed floor meets the flared metal piece at the camper entrance and where the floor goes under an access panel that allows 1'4" clearance.

I'd planned using 3/8" Baltic Birch but neither Lowes Hardware, Home Depot or local supplier Hoke Lumber have any 3/8" hardwood plywood. Weight added is about 60 lbs which will be compensated by moving things carried on the camper to things carried in the truck.

I've measured and drawn cut lines on the vinyl floor (I have a picture I can post if I know how) and figured out the cost of renting a table saw and router is more with more hassle than hiring a guy to come over in his truck to make the cuts, which must be straight and I plan to simply butt tightly together. The cut pattern is very simple. For a guy with a table saw and router this is a 1/2 day DYI job yielding, I hope, a solid floor that can be removed it needed.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:54 AM   #68
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I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, but I don't think this will fix your soft floor. I hope it does, a lot of the problem is there's not enough support's under the floor.
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:47 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Rader View Post
So I opened a new thread and cannot find it now.

Short answer to problem is simple. I plan to get two sheets of 4x8 hardwood plywood, preferably the baltic birch for strength and looks. I'll finish the good side with polyurethane then cover the roughly 12' x 5' floor completely (not including bathroom) directly over the existing, though torn, vinyl. There will be two straight butt joints. There will be three router edges where the floor is feathered to existing floor to go into bathroom and where the overplayed floor meets the flared metal piece at the camper entrance and where the floor goes under an access panel that allows 1'4" clearance.

I'd planned using 3/8" Baltic Birch but neither Lowes Hardware, Home Depot or local supplier Hoke Lumber have any 3/8" hardwood plywood. Weight added is about 60 lbs which will be compensated by moving things carried on the camper to things carried in the truck.

I've measured and drawn cut lines on the vinyl floor (I have a picture I can post if I know how) and figured out the cost of renting a table saw and router is more with more hassle than hiring a guy to come over in his truck to make the cuts, which must be straight and I plan to simply butt tightly together. The cut pattern is very simple. For a guy with a table saw and router this is a 1/2 day DYI job yielding, I hope, a solid floor that can be removed it needed.

Look on your profile page and click on "Find all threads started by Frank Rader". There are no threads there.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:43 PM   #70
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Thanks for the comment and you are not a stick in the mud. Every comment helps, though what I've learned is more doing, less typing, so I got a 2' x 4" piece of 1/2 inch hardwood plywood at Home Depot today to try over the soft spots. I did not know they sold that size and it is fine for testing. I might test an 11/32 piece, too.

The 1/2 worked well but showed what may be an unevenness over the 8' length that includes the area in front of the sink. I'll put a long level or straight edge on that tomorrow. The result is turning the OM floor into sub floor. Another test for tomorrow is spanning some 30" separated supports with the test piece and standing on it to test strength and deflection.
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