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08-12-2018, 04:06 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Hellertown
Posts: 3
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Propane line
Hey All,
Something chewed through my main propane line. I removed the end that attached to the regulator no problem but the end that attaches to the manifold that distributes propane ti the stove , fridge ect.. won't budge. I can see a red substance on ti which I assume is just thread sealer. It wouldn't be red loctite would it? Have any of you replaced this line? Is there a trick to it? Being a propane line I'm a littler reluctant to use heat in case there is some residual gas in the lines.
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08-12-2018, 04:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Welcome to the forum.
I've never replaced a line, no clue about the red stuff, and I understand not wanting to use heat!
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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08-12-2018, 04:52 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 75
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I’m sitting in the same scenario on our Starcraft. I remember reading a thread similar where they ended up using heat. I’m a bit nervous about that because the fitting underneath is near the underbelly plastic and spray foam...
__________________
'17 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 329BHU
'18 Ford F250 6.7L
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08-12-2018, 05:31 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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Most connections are on a brass fitting and will be tight, so spray some wd40 on it and it will come loose. But the magic is also to use the proper tools.
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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08-12-2018, 05:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Calgary
Posts: 458
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Sure could be a combination thread sealant and thread lock product.
One option is to try to tighten it a smidgen, and then it should loosen just fine. Or use a good penetrating oil. WD40 isn't my favorite, PB blaster or similar would be more effective.
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08-12-2018, 06:38 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Do you have a flare nut wrench for the fitting? If not, get one or you could cut the line close and use a box wrench (six point preferred) on the fitting. You'll be able to put a lot more force that way without risking rounding the fitting.
IMO, don't use an open end wrench or an adjustable wrench.
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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08-13-2018, 03:39 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Hellertown
Posts: 3
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Thanks all. I am a machinist/moldmaker and sprayed it with a product we use called Aerokroil. Works like magic compared to wd-40 or even PB blaster. I won't be able to get back to it for a day or two but I will update.
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08-13-2018, 06:33 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: kaml
Posts: 1,285
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This came up recently. It's red loctite. A heat gun might get it hot enough to release without open flame. Either that or muscle it loose.
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ion-59001.html
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08-19-2018, 01:31 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Hellertown
Posts: 3
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Got it!
So I bought a set of flare nut wrenches and guess what. They stripped the nut too. I tried using just a heat gun but that didn't do anything. Since I had to cut the hose off to get the flare nut wrench on I sprayed it inside and out with a good dose of the Areokroil stuff I mentioned. Let it sit for a minute the went under with a good size pipe wrench and a good sized adjustable. Put the pipe wrench on the stripped nut and the adjustable on the aluminum manifold and cranked as hard as I could without busting a nut and she broke loose.
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08-19-2018, 01:37 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 11,281
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Yup, the old, 'don't force it, use a longer lever' method!
__________________
Sherm & Terry w/rescue Eydie (min Schnauzer) & Charley (std Poodle)
SOLD:2015 Jay Flight 27RLS, GY Endurance (E), Days: 102 '15, 90 '16, 80 '17, 161 '18, 365+ '20
SOLD: 2006 Ford F350 PSD, 4WD, CC, LB, SRW, Camper pkg., 375,000mi
Full timing: Some will think you're crazy, some will be envious, just enjoy the freedom!
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08-26-2020, 09:40 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Newport
Posts: 5
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I know this thread is old but thought I would add my solution. Had the squirrel issue too. Seeing the red locktite (after reading this thread) I cut the line in front of the fitting so a socket would fit over it. Then I used a battery impact driver to remove the fitting. Easy peasy,,,,came right out. Did the same with the quick connect line that the tree rat got too.
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