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Old 07-12-2017, 01:33 PM   #1
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Quick help needed

1) When I am on the move, does the fridge suppose to run with the battery itself? Or do I need to turn on the gas tank to keep it run too? Is this safe to left the gas tanks open while towing it?

* I tested this on my driveway without plugging in the power. Pretending I am at the campsite with the TT leveled.

2) After I unplugged the 110V power source from the house, the microwave, fan, and some 110v sockets does not work, is that normal?

Please help me because we are leaving tomorrow for a trip. Thanks a lot.
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Old 07-12-2017, 01:44 PM   #2
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1) Do you have a 3 way fridge (AC, DC, GAS) or a 2 way (AC, Gas)?

2) Yes, that is normal.
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Old 07-12-2017, 01:46 PM   #3
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When traveling I use propane for the frig, I tried the battery once and only got about 4 hours before it went dead. Once you disconnect from 120v shore power you are running off the battery which will only run the frig on propane and the 12v lights, the micro, fan, and 120v plugs will not work, this is normal
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Old 07-12-2017, 01:51 PM   #4
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1) Do you have a 3 way fridge (AC, DC, GAS) or a 2 way (AC, Gas)?
I don't know but it is Norcold. It has AUTO, OFF, GAS on it.
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Old 07-12-2017, 01:53 PM   #5
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When traveling I use propane for the frig, I tried the battery once and only got about 4 hours before it went dead. Once you disconnect from 120v shore power you are running off the battery which will only run the frig on propane and the 12v lights, the micro, fan, and 120v plugs will not work, this is normal
Then if the campsite has no power, then I cannot use mirco, fan and 120v sockets? Is there a mod (e.g. adding an inverter) will solve this?
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Old 07-12-2017, 01:54 PM   #6
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When traveling I use propane for the frig....
Just to confirm, is it safe to leave the gas tanks open while driving? Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:05 PM   #7
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I don't know but it is Norcold. It has AUTO, OFF, GAS on it.
Sounds like a 2-way. You can find out for sure if you find the model # which is usually located on the upper right inside of the fridge. If so, yes you need to have to gas on while you are traveling.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:11 PM   #8
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I leave my gas on while travelling just for fridge and furnace. How far are you travelling? You may be fine to just leave the fridge closed if it is cold when you leave.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:15 PM   #9
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Just to confirm, is it safe to leave the gas tanks open while driving? Thanks.
Yes its safe to leave them open while driving. To test you frig before you leave turn on gas, turn frig to auto and listen for it to start, make sure trailer is always level when running it. It will take a few hours running on gas before it starts to cool down, when you get setup at the campground you can then run on 120v. You should have a manual for the frig and all other devices in the pouch supplied by the dealer.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:15 PM   #10
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Everyone who has responded is correct. It all sounds like a normal operating RV. Note if you run your Norcold frig. only on propane it will be a good many days of your vacation before you may begin to consider a refill of your propane tank.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:16 PM   #11
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Just to confirm, is it safe to leave the gas tanks open while driving? Thanks.
Yes, it is safe.

There are a few tunnels etc. where you are supposed to turn off your gas cylinders, but those are well marked (as far as I know) before you enter them.

Your are supposed to turn off your frig when fueling at a gas station because there is an open flame (internally) to heat the refrigerant. Not everyone does this, however. (Complete disclosure: I've never turned off my frig when fueling.)

BTW, once your frig is cold, it will stay cold for quite a while as long as the door(s) stay shut.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:25 PM   #12
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1) When I am on the move, does the fridge suppose to run with the battery itself? Or do I need to turn on the gas tank to keep it run too? Is this safe to left the gas tanks open while towing it?

* I tested this on my driveway without plugging in the power. Pretending I am at the campsite with the TT leveled.

2) After I unplugged the 110V power source from the house, the microwave, fan, and some 110v sockets does not work, is that normal?

Please help me because we are leaving tomorrow for a trip. Thanks a lot.
#1 The gas needs to be on in order for the fridge to function while traveling. Some choose to leave it off but it is designed to work on gas when moving.

#2 Yes that is the way it works normally unless you have some additional equipment inverter and even with that only limited ac power.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:29 PM   #13
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Then if the campsite has no power, then I cannot use mirco, fan and 120v sockets? Is there a mod (e.g. adding an inverter) will solve this?
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Just to confirm, is it safe to leave the gas tanks open while driving? Thanks.
If the campsite has no power, none of the outlets in your trailer will work (microwave is plugged into an outlet), nor will the fan on your air conditioner (the fan(s) in your vent(s) should work). Lights will work, your water heater will work on propane, and your furnace will work (but the fan will eat through your battery quick) You can install an inverter to power some of the outlets (a lot of people will run a TV this way in the evenings for entertainment), but depending on what you're trying to run, you had better have a good, solid battery bank and some way to recharge. 12V batteries powering an inverter to get 110V A/C power are not terribly efficient and will wear down QUICK.

Your fridge is 2-way. This means that with the selector switched to "Auto" it will run on shore power if available, and propane if not. It will not run on 12V, but it still needs 12V to work (the electronics are powered by 12V). Keep in mind that if the propane tanks have been off for a while, you will need to "bleed" them to get the fridge to fire on propane. Run the stove on hi for a minute or two, then switch the fridge to gas. You should be able to hear it trying to ignite if you listen closely. It will attempt to fire a few times and if it isn't able to, you will get a blinking light on the control panel of the fridge. In this case, ensure you have a good propane source (tanks full and open, regulator working properly) and cycle the switch to off for a moment and try again.

It is my opinion that it is safe to drive with the propane tanks open, but that is a hotly debated topic on this forum. Local laws may have a bearing if you are going through a tunnel or on a ferry. Also be careful when fueling your tow vehicle; you don't want your fridge vents near a fueling location.

FWIW, if you are planning a weekend outing at a site with no shore power, and all you have is the dealer-supplied dual purpose battery, you will likely run out of juice after about a day unless you are VERY careful with power management. If you're REALLY careful, (only use lights when necessary, limit use of the water pump, don't run the furnace much, don't run the fan(s) much, etc.) you could make it the whole weekend assuming your battery is healthy. Your CO detector will let you know when your battery is exhausted; it will begin beeping which indicates an elevated level of CO or low voltage.
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:06 PM   #14
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Thank you all.
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:22 PM   #15
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I have a dual propane tanks. Do I turn on both together? Or turn on one at a time?
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:29 PM   #16
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I have a dual propane tanks. Do I turn on both together? Or turn on one at a time?
You can turn them both on, some regulators are automatic and will switch tanks when one goes empty, others are manual and you have to turn the dial.
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:31 PM   #17
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Doesn't matter either way, but just turn on one at a time slowly, so the leakage "detector" doesn't think you blew a hose and shuts the tank down.
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:50 AM   #18
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Doesn't matter either way, but just turn on one at a time slowly, so the leakage "detector" doesn't think you blew a hose and shuts the tank down.
This is an important point. When you're opening your tank valves, you have to be slow about it. If you think you're being slow enough, slow down a little more. Like stupid slow. If you just walk up and crank the valve open, the leak valve will stop flow and it takes some time for that to "reset". IF it does close, you can try to unscrew the pigtail from the tank and rap it sharply a couple times and the valve should reset. Reattach, and give the valve another go more slowly.

I always run with both tank open because I have an auto-changeover regulator. My regulator will automatically switch over to the other tank when one goes empty. When this happens, the indicator on my regulator will flip from green to red. When it's red, I turn the dial on the regulator to make the full tank the "primary" tank and refill the empty one at my earliest convenience. When I reattach the now re-filled tank, I leave the regulator pointing at the tank I switched it to when I saw the red indicator. That way when THAT tank empties, the indicator will turn red again, and I reverse the process all over again. We go through about 30 lbs of propane in 1.5-2 years. I rarely use the furnace, I rarely use the WH on propane, and I only use the fridge on propane when we're in transit. Our trailers are VERY efficient users of propane IMO. The furnace is the biggest propane hog, but you can run the fridge for a LONG time on propane.
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