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For the de-winterizing part, I used this checklist weekend before this last one. Just got back from our first trip of the season, no issues at all.
1. Make sure all RV water taps are fully closed.
2. Ensure the water pump is turned off.
3. Close, plug, or cap the fresh water tank drain.
4. Cap the low point drains if applicable.
5. Close the hot water tank drain valve or replace the anode rod or tank plug.
Be sure to place thread sealant tape (PTFE tape) on the plug or rod prior to
threading it into the hole. If you have an aluminum tank that does not use
an anode rod, such as an Atwood, a plastic plug is recommended. If you
place a steel plug into an aluminum tank (or vice-versa), an electrochemical
reaction, called galvanic corrosion, between the different metals may cause
the plug to seize into the hole. For steel tanks, do not substitute a plug for
the anode rod, and replace the rod if it has significant erosion.
6. Connect a potable water hose between a convenient household faucet and
the RV fresh water connection.
7. Turn on the water supply to the RV.
8. Starting with the tap furthest away from the RV fresh water connection,
slowly open the cold-water tap so anti-freeze flows (usually pink in color).
Note that the furthest fixture from the water connection may be an
external tap.
9. When there is no longer any anti-freeze in the line, turn off the cold water
tap and repeat the process with the hot water tap.
10. Repeat steps 8 & 9 with all remaining tap sets, including the lavatory.
11. Close all taps and put at least a few inches of water in the fresh water tank. If you are sanitizing your water system, this would be a good time to do it.. Most use a diluted bleach solution in the fresh tank.
12. Turn off the fresh water supply and turn on the water pump.
13. Open any cold-water tap for at least 20 seconds to purge anti-freeze in the
pump line.
14. Turn off the water pump and set the water heater bypass valve(s) to disable
the bypass.
15. Turn on the fresh water supply and allow the water heater to fill.
16. Once the water heater is full, place a rag over the closest hot water tap and
SLOWLY open it a small amount. There will be significant aeration from the
hot water tank air space, so use the rag to contain the splashing. Do not
open the tap fully until aeration is complete.
17. Repeat step 16 with the other hot water taps until no aeration exists.
18. Open the cold water taps once more to verify steady flow.
19. Turn off the fresh water supply and pump, and stow the hose.
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Other things to check.
Tire Pressures.
Running / brake lights.
I almost didn't mention those 2 because that's for every trip, but super critical after being stored for several months.
There are other maintenance items you should probably look into now as well.. such as
- checking the roof for any cracked sealant. Re-apply as needed.
- If you have a crankup antenna, lubricate the gear on it.
- test your fridge, furnace, water heater, oven/stove.
- test your smoke /carbon monoxide detectors
- using a dry lubricant of your choice, make sure any / all locks are working freely... sometimes they get hung up after sitting all winter.
- lubricate hinges on doors, stairs, all moving parts that 'squeek'.
- Grease the hitch and coupler.
I think that's about all we did.
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2016 27BHS Elite
2012 F-150 EcoBoost / Max Tow (Sold)
2017 'Blue Jeans' 6.2 F-250 Lariat 4.3 gears.
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