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Old 02-07-2012, 11:27 AM   #1
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Unhitching on a slope/slant

Hi,

I have a X23B hooked up to a Acura MDX with a heavy duty weight distribution system and sway bar. One trip last year the slope of the campsite resulted in the trailer being slightly tilted (lengthwise) relative to the Acura. It was almost impossible to get the the hitch ball out of the receiver on the trailer even after removing the pin and sliding up the locking mechanism. I had to resort to pulling the pin on the Acrua's trailer hitch and slowly moving forward to pull out the hitch from the car and then the ball on the hitch fell out of the trailer. It didn't feel right!. What should I have done? Is there a certain order that I must follow when detaching the trailer? Generally speaking I do the following: remove sway bar; back up and park; lower front jack on to a couple peices of wood; take some weight of hitch; remove weight dist. bars; take pin out of hitch and slide up the locking mechansim; raise trailer until the ball falls out; disconnect wires/brake safety; move car forward; pull pin from hitch and remove hitch (not necessary but I always hit it with my knees when unloading!); place chocks around tires; level trailer.

Thanks for any feedback

KillbearCamper
2010 X23B
Acrua MDX with heavy duty weight dist. trailer hitch
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Old 02-07-2012, 11:57 AM   #2
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After removing the weight dist. bars, I raise the front jack so that all the weight is back on the ball. As soon as the jack raises from the ground a hair, I release the lock on the ball and start lowering the jack again. When the trailer clears the height of the ball, I pull the TV forward and begin leveling. Maybe that will help.
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Old 02-07-2012, 12:16 PM   #3
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Go get some (2) 2 x 6's one 10ft the other 8 ft and cut them in half. You should be leveling your unit as close as posible to allow your WD hitch to engage and dis-engage. By having the boards you can place the longer one under the tires then the shorter one on top of that to allow you to gradually climb up as needed while setting up at your site.

If you cannot achieve level within these 2 boards you can dis-engage you WD bars on level ground, ideally only in front of the site on the access road then back into position.

The other option is to put some boards under your TV tires while engaged at the site.

You will need to repeat the process upon leaving.
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Old 02-07-2012, 01:18 PM   #4
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I've had this happen on a few occasions where the site is un-level (front to back). The problem is gravity...when on a slope the trailer will want to either push into or pull away from the hitch ball. This force makes hooking/unhooking more difficult. In the case of a downhill slope, I would first chock all trailer wheels firmly. Then try to "slightly" (less than 1") pull ahead. The idea is to get the trailer firmly locked on the chocks so that it cant roll forward. Then use the tongue jack to lift the front of the trailer and see if the flipper will pop up. If not, then "slightly" (less than 1/4") back up to relieve some force from the hitch ball and try the flipper again. Not sure if this is the right way to do it but it's worked for me.

Also...your sequence looks fine but I'd never unhook a trailer before chocking the wheels.
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:48 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by KillbearCamper View Post
Hi,

I have a X23B hooked up to a Acura MDX with a heavy duty weight distribution system and sway bar. One trip last year the slope of the campsite resulted in the trailer being slightly tilted (lengthwise) relative to the Acura. It was almost impossible to get the the hitch ball out of the receiver on the trailer even after removing the pin and sliding up the locking mechanism. I had to resort to pulling the pin on the Acrua's trailer hitch and slowly moving forward to pull out the hitch from the car and then the ball on the hitch fell out of the trailer. It didn't feel right!. What should I have done? Is there a certain order that I must follow when detaching the trailer? Generally speaking I do the following: remove sway bar; back up and park; lower front jack on to a couple peices of wood; take some weight of hitch; remove weight dist. bars; take pin out of hitch and slide up the locking mechansim; raise trailer until the ball falls out; disconnect wires/brake safety; move car forward; pull pin from hitch and remove hitch (not necessary but I always hit it with my knees when unloading!); place chocks around tires; level trailer.

Thanks for any feedback

KillbearCamper
2010 X23B
Acrua MDX with heavy duty weight dist. trailer hitch
WOW! You might be right at the weight limit with that MDX.
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by go wild View Post
I've had this happen on a few occasions where the site is un-level (front to back). The problem is gravity...when on a slope the trailer will want to either push into or pull away from the hitch ball. This force makes hooking/unhooking more difficult. In the case of a downhill slope, I would first chock all trailer wheels firmly. Then try to "slightly" (less than 1") pull ahead. The idea is to get the trailer firmly locked on the chocks so that it cant roll forward. Then use the tongue jack to lift the front of the trailer and see if the flipper will pop up. If not, then "slightly" (less than 1/4") back up to relieve some force from the hitch ball and try the flipper again. Not sure if this is the right way to do it but it's worked for me.

Also...your sequence looks fine but I'd never unhook a trailer before chocking the wheels.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:29 PM   #7
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[SNIP= I'd never unhook a trailer before chocking the wheels.[/QUOTE]

X3 on chocking the wheels before unhooking. Hard to stop a runaway TT. Don't ask me how I know.
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Old 02-07-2012, 08:52 PM   #8
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ALWAYS chock, and do it first. I once took a ride in a TT lot at a local dealer because they neglected to chock a unit parked on a slope.

After chocking, you may have to nudge the TV down the slope an inch to relieve any pressure on the hitch. It's also a good way to make sure your chocks are set securely.

MDX? Wow. I'd never imagine hauling that close to the max. (X23B GVWR=4950, which may be your curb weight after loading). How does it handle for you?
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:57 PM   #9
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Thanks for the comments and insights. I definitely will move the chocking to the top of the list. My 2010 MDX has 300 hp and can tow 5000 lbs. Aside from a great layout, I liked the fact that the X23B was well under 5000 and had a gross weight under 5000. With the weight dist. bars it rides GREAT and is really smooth. I can easily cruise at 60 -70 mph, but the fuel consumption jumps considerably! I keep my trailer close to my favourite provincial park so I can drive unloaded for 90% of the trip, then I attach the trailer for the last 10%.

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Old 02-08-2012, 02:15 PM   #10
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snip.... I keep my trailer close to my favourite provincial park so I can drive unloaded for 90% of the trip, then I attach the trailer for the last 10%.

KillbearCamper
I would guess that would be Killbear Provincial Park. A very nice spot, right on Georgian Bay
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