Weight Dist Hitch question

[chuckworkb]

I have a question regarding the bars on the hitch that connect with the chains.

The brackets that the chains mount to, should they slide when the trailer turns?

I see the threaded bolt on the back in in pretty tight, but not cranked on real tight.

Any thoughts?

[Bob Landry]

The cam-up brackets should have come with a bolt that tightens against the frame from the inside. They should be tight enough to keep the brackets from moving, but not tigh enough so that the frame collapses. They should be positioned so that the chains are pulled as vertical as possible and the brackets should not move during turns.

[chuckworkb]

I think one of them was too loose. I moved it back so the chain was straight, and tightened that bolt on the back.
Thanks for the advice.

[Rustic Eagle]

The snap-up bracket bolt should only be tightened 1/4 to 1/2 turn maximum to avoid having problems with the bracket saddle bending over the TT frame. In some heavy loaded tongue weight applications the bracket may have to be bolted to the TT frame.

When using a standard WDH (without Reese Dual Cam) ideally you want the chain hanging vertical (perpendicular to the ground) with the TV/TT combination in a straight line. This will insure that when the TV makes turns there is ample chain/spring bar freedom of motion. The other important factor is to have at least 5 chain links "under tension" at the snap-up bracket thus reducing the chain pull effect on the snap-up bracket during TV turns.

Bob

[jepotts]

All great stuff, thanks guys...

[chuckworkb]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

The snap-up bracket bolt should only be tightened 1/4 to 1/2 turn maximum to avoid having problems with the bracket saddle bending over the TT frame. In some heavy loaded tongue weight applications the bracket may have to be bolted to the TT frame.

When using a standard WDH (without Reese Dual Cam) ideally you want the chain hanging vertical (perpendicular to the ground) with the TV/TT combination in a straight line. This will insure that when the TV makes turns there is ample chain/spring bar freedom of motion. The other important factor is to have at least 5 chain links "under tension" at the snap-up bracket thus reducing the chain pull effect on the snap-up bracket during TV turns.

Bob

I will go back and check the tightness on the bolts, to make sure they aren't too tight. I checked the number of links, and I do have 5 links under tension.
Do you think it is better to pull those off before backing into a tight spot. Getting into my driveway requires a pretty severe turn, ( to get in when the neighbors car is parked there, and he isn't home to move it), and maybe that almost jackknife angle is pulling on that bar. Thoughts?

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by chuckworkb

snip......Do you think it is better to pull those off before backing into a tight spot. Getting into my driveway requires a pretty severe turn, ( to get in when the neighbors car is parked there, and he isn't home to move it), and maybe that almost jackknife angle is pulling on that bar. Thoughts?

In some extreme cases removing the springs bars may be required. I would take your TV/TT to a large parking lot and simulate the TV turn you have to make to get into your driveway, then get out of your TV and inspect the WDH/Spring bars. Look for any binding and check to see if the snap-up bracket is being compromised. If you do remove the spring bars keep in mind that your WDH ground clearance may be reduced.

Bob