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Old 07-20-2018, 09:13 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler View Post
As you can see I used 6" Eturnabond tape for the 8' seam on the roof and if you look closely you can see those screws that hold the gutter in place. Youíll also see that not all of them were screwed in straight !!!!!
X2, this is what I did last year, but I did not remove the old caulking. It would have laid down a bit nicer if I had. If you use eternabond, do NOT stretch it when you apply it.

All caulking should be checked every 6 months, and touch up as needed. Mine was good for about 5 years before I noticed any cracking. I have heard of issues within the 1st year.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:08 PM   #22
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Doc (and others), thanks. Will do as instructed. Not sure how to smooth out the "dents".
This piece is multi-layer and once it wrinkles you're pretty much stuck with it. Mine is doing the same on the lower portion below the bunk. I have pulled the entire inside wall off during the floor rebuild and since the 'wall' does not attach to the structure there is nothing to make it keep it's shape. I guess if you packed enough insulation in there it would do it.
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:49 AM   #23
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After reading this post this morning I decided that it was a perfect day to wax my x17z. I also inspected the roof (I did clean and inspect this spring). Although it look good there are a couple areas that look a little cracked so I ordered 2 tubes of Dicor. But no delamination found anywhere. However there is one small area on the edge of the roof where there is kind of a bubble. It it about 3 x 8 inches and appears the roof is not glued down in that spot but otherwise feels solid. No signs of ripping or any leaking. Should I be concerned?
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:20 AM   #24
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After reading this post this morning I decided that it was a perfect day to wax my x17z. I also inspected the roof (I did clean and inspect this spring). Although it look good there are a couple areas that look a little cracked so I ordered 2 tubes of Dicor. But no delamination found anywhere. However there is one small area on the edge of the roof where there is kind of a bubble. It it about 3 x 8 inches and appears the roof is not glued down in that spot but otherwise feels solid. No signs of ripping or any leaking. Should I be concerned?
Some say it's normal, some say no. Most dealers will tell you it's normal and not to worry about it. But in fact, it's a poorly laid membrane from the factory. They make a kit to repair it consisting of a hypodermic needle and some sort of adhesive. Keep an eye on it to see if it gets bigger. If it does, I'd get it looked at. Sometimes the wind from traveling can expand the blisters if they're on the roof. That being said, my slide roofs will bubble and in a couple weeks, the blisters disappear. So I'm not too concerned and chalkin' it up to be normal in my case. You can keep track of the bubble by outlining it with a light marker. But as far as being concerned and worried about it, I wouldn't unless it gets bigger or more appear.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:30 PM   #25
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Dicor makes the materials to repair it. You can Google them or try Amazon. Or Eternabond tape.
I can second the Eternabond or Quick Roof Extreme. I have used both.
On our maiden voyage, 5 hours in, the roof ripped off due to manufacturing issue. There was a quarter size spot under the screw strip that never got any bonding agent. It looked as if the worker had a sweat drip that caused it.

Knowing what I know now, if I EVERY buy another RV, regardless of age, even if new, I'd climb up there at the nearest Walmart Parking lot from where I bought and apply at least one run of the stuff across the factory screw strip.

Back to my roof repair:
I glued it all back down and Diacor Patched the 2 rips and one hole that was maybe 2x2ft.
Then covered those patches entirely with Quick Roof Extreme, in a lapping fashion, starting at the rear and applying forward, to mitigate wind pulling them up in time.
The screw strip I took up, glued the EDPM back down, then put the screw strip back in place. The local RV shop didn't have the screw strips, so I made 2 out of bar stock aluminum from Lowes/Depot. I drilled those every 2 inches, alternated holes left and right on the strip (front and back).
Then placed them behind the original screw strip.
then covered them all with Quick Roof Extreme, starting from the back and moving foward. 3 runs across the front.

Then I siliconed the leading edge of the Quickroof. IMHO, Diacor is total garbage. I use Marine grade silicone on the boat in the sun and it last for 2 years before deterioration in Texas sun.
So I used that on all leading (wind) edge.

Quick Roof: https://amzn.to/2O4UCdn
Eternabond: https://amzn.to/2LDtDUk

I like the Quickroof better than eternabond, but in reality it is basically the same.
The Diacor Roof Patch is much thicker, more like EDPM, but not as sticky.
That is why I went with the "belt and suspenders" method as I didn't want to do it again.
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Old 07-22-2018, 03:21 PM   #26
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Has anyone ever used the Flex Seal caulking or the Flex Seal paint to seal the roof..🤔
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:04 AM   #27
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Has anyone ever used the Flex Seal caulking or the Flex Seal paint to seal the roof..
I have not specifically used it, but it is basically EDPM and the same stuff we are talking here.
But, it is more expensive than than either eterna bond or quick roof.

I "Moderator edit " about diacor (it is junk) and use marine grade silicon for any applications that need it.
But in this case, I have used both eterna bond and quick roof.
I stand by them and know my **** ain't leaking. Until the sun rots it off.

Flextape I'm not that confident about.
But I have a roll, it looks to be the same stuff.

I however keep my rig totally enclosed, so it only sees sunlight when I am driving and camping. So my lifetime for sun deterioration is much longer.

But serious. If you ever go buy ANY rig, new or used, drive it to a walmart parking lot, climb on the roof and put a full width piece of eternal or quick roof over that leading edge.

Often that fails sitting while for sale, and you end up pushing air under it on the way home, and ripping the roof off.

The $30 bucks will save you 5-10k for a new roof depending on size of the rig.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:39 PM   #28
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All caulking should be checked every 6 months, and touch up as needed. Mine was good for about 5 years before I noticed any cracking. I have heard of issues within the 1st year.
This is our 3rd season with our 2016 Jay Flight. So far the caulking has held up well. No touch up required so far. I check it every few of months.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:59 PM   #29
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I have seen a small number of rigs, class C and fifth wheels driving on the interstate and the roof looked like a blimp on top.

One was in a cg waiting on a roofing tech to come and repair it. They only replaced the front part about 8 ft. back from the front cap.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:22 PM   #30
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If you can catch it before this happens it will save you tons.
And it happens when air gets under the front lip.
No air, no ripped roofs or bubbles.
Unless you tear it under a tree or something.
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Old 07-24-2018, 04:25 PM   #31
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You should also reseal the clearance lights.
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Old 07-25-2018, 03:00 PM   #32
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I bought a new camper last fall, and I have some Eternabond left over from a repair on my old pop-up. I think I'll be covering that seam this weekend as a preventative measure.


Thanks guys!
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:37 PM   #33
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Had a couple of spots on the roof seam that were "iffy". Used Eternabond for a permanent fix with Dicor along the edges.
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