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09-09-2015, 10:17 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 122
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I have an 2014 X19H and my low point drains are in the same area as yours except for they cut a little hole in that divider panel and they stick out into the storage section exactly where your coffee pot box is sitting.
__________________
2014 Jayco X19H
2016 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew 5.0L V8 6.5 box
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09-09-2015, 10:43 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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Reading the manual to find the pump is pointless. They don't publish it. Just one of the many 'fun' parts of owning an RV.
__________________
TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck
Sitting in The Cheap Seats.
And proud of it!
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09-09-2015, 11:23 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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Screwed in access panels are the norm throughout the industry. What they should do and do in other models is make easy access of the low point drains for quick temporary draining in the colder months when you use a unit. Some of mine are accessable while others are behind panels.
My last TT had a panel that had to be removed in order to gain access. Simple mod of a piano hinge and 1/2 drill bit for a pull hole was what I did.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
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09-09-2015, 11:41 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go
Reading the manual to find the pump is pointless. They don't publish it. Just one of the many 'fun' parts of owning an RV.
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Jayco and other manufacturers have taken a huge short cut in manual publications. You don't get a manual specific to a certain model but rather a manual that loosely covers the entire series. I guess they rely on the end user to be willing to put in some work to understand where everything is located.
__________________
2018 28BHBE
2017 Ford F250 XLT, 6.2 gasser
2013 26BH (traded)
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09-09-2015, 12:11 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iraqvet05
Jayco and other manufacturers have taken a huge short cut in manual publications. You don't get a manual specific to a certain model but rather a manual that loosely covers the entire series. I guess they rely on the end user to be willing to put in some work to understand where everything is located.
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As sad as Jayco's manuals are, they are still better than the manuals that come with computers and cell phones (what manuals?). They just come with a piece of paper that says if you need help go to their website. How do I do that if I can't get the crazy thing to work to get to their website for help????
__________________
2014 Jayco X19H
2016 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew 5.0L V8 6.5 box
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09-10-2015, 07:17 AM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bedford Michigan
Posts: 99
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Huh. I have a 2014 X19H and my pump is in the lower portion of the cabinet directly behind that bench seat (circled in red). My compartment under the bench is basically empty.... Not sure why they would move it. You wouldn't gain much storage by moving it out of the cabinet and it is easy to get to....
__________________
2014 Toyota Sienna
2014 JayCo X19H
Husky WDH, Curt Class 3, Prodigy P2
AirLift 1000 Suspension
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09-11-2015, 09:24 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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I took the screws out to access the bypass on the X23B and never put them back in. Was no problem.
__________________
Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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09-11-2015, 01:25 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS1950
I'd much prefer that and the access that it provides you as compared to my 23b pump being tucked under the refrigerator with a door. Down on my hands and knees isn't so convenient.
vic
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Vic, I removed that stupid little panel that restricts access to the pump. It's a lot easier now.
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11-09-2015, 10:51 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 305
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Water heater access door
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHorse1
I took the screws out to access the bypass on the X23B and never put them back in. Was no problem.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
Vic, I removed that stupid little panel that restricts access to the pump. It's a lot easier now.
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After DH accessed the w/h to bypass it yesterday in the winterization process I was wondering if anyone had any good ideas of ways to put the door back on other than with the screws. Ours on our 23rb was held with two screws that I'm sure after several winterizations won't hold well.
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11-09-2015, 11:02 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gloryb
After DH accessed the w/h to bypass it yesterday in the winterization process I was wondering if anyone had any good ideas of ways to put the door back on other than with the screws. Ours on our 23rb was held with two screws that I'm sure after several winterizations won't hold well.
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I removed the WH bypass access panel with the expectation of installing some T-nuts from the inside of the cabinet and using machine thumbscrews to hold the panel in place.
That was in July.
The panel is still on the floor in the storage area. That'll be #6 or #7 on the projects list during de-winterization next April...
__________________
TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck
Sitting in The Cheap Seats.
And proud of it!
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11-09-2015, 12:08 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gloryb
After DH accessed the w/h to bypass it yesterday in the winterization process I was wondering if anyone had any good ideas of ways to put the door back on other than with the screws. Ours on our 23rb was held with two screws that I'm sure after several winterizations won't hold well.
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I am assuming the panel you are talking about; looks like any other cabinet door in your TT. If so, look at what the other cabinet doors have for hinges, go to your favorite hardware store and buy two that are similar. You may also need a spring latch to keep the door closed.
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11-09-2015, 02:30 PM
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#32
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Lost in the Woods
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Vallejo
Posts: 238
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For me, personally, I would rate that issue as no big deal.
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11-09-2015, 02:46 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gloryb
... Ours on our 23rb was held with two screws that I'm sure after several winterizations won't hold well.
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If that is your only real concern, the screws shouldn't "wear out" for a couple times per year use. Just don't over-tighten and strip them out. they only need to be snug.
There is a method which almost guarantees that the existing thread in the wood or plastic is re-engaged. Place the screw into the hole. Before trying to tighten it in, turn it slowly backwards like you are removing it. You should feel a slight bump which is the threads falling into place in the old grooves. Stop and then turn the screw in to tighten it. The threads of the screw should engage and pick up the old threads. That helps to keep the holes from enlarging with each use.
FWIW. vic
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