winterizing a hybrid

[Pomacanthus]

Seems simpler to blow out all the water lines with compressed air rather than filling them all with antifreeze. Im a total anti toxin type of guy and the thought of residual antifreeze makes me wary, not only that but you would have to flush it all back out.

Any reason dry lines are not ok? Im in Minnesota.

PS Im having mine shrink wrapped on site at my home like they do with boats!
great service to keep show, ice, and damaging UV off the unit.

[Jagiven]

I store mine about 50 miles north of you. With our winters I just don't trust blowing out the lines only. The work to fix a broken line where the residual water settled, just is not worth it. I have tried a lot of rv antifreezes over the years. Some antifreeze do leave a taste in the pipes. The one I like is IsoBar, i have only found at FleetFarm. After I put it in I blow out all the lines.

[dalebra]

Another Minnesotan here.

THe first year I had an RV I blew out the lines. The next spring I had a faucet that broke from the freezing temps and residual water in the valve.
Ever since I have used RV Antifreeze with out an issue.

Now I have a new 5er and it has connections for a washer in the bedroom closet. Even though I don't use it do you suppose I need to run antifreeze out of the hot and cold until pink on these too? My guess is that the stand pipe has a P trap too that should have antifreeze. The 5er was winterized at the factory when it was built last winter. Typing this I'm almost convinced I should.

Thoughts?

[Rustysocket]

Originally Posted by Pomacanthus

Seems simpler to blow out all the water lines with compressed air rather than filling them all with antifreeze. Im a total anti toxin type of guy and the thought of residual antifreeze makes me wary, not only that but you would have to flush it all back out.

Any reason dry lines are not ok? Im in Minnesota.

PS Im having mine shrink wrapped on site at my home like they do with boats!
great service to keep show, ice, and damaging UV off the unit.

It's fine if you like playing the lottery and like to spend money in the spring time.

[NVGun40]

$.02 from Alaska here. I blow my lines out with compressed air, not just at the low point drains but by rotating through every faucet as well. I then charge the whole system with RV antifreeze.
The reason, is there is always some residual water left in the faucet gaskets, and droplets throughout the lines. As temperatures change and condensation happens it is inevitable that you will end up with more water pooling in the low points of the lines. Generally, this isn't to much of a problem because the frozen water can still expand. What happens when that low point hits a fitting or elbow? Then as Delebra indicated, residual water which gets trapped into faucet gaskets and valves can cause just enough pressure to ensure you have a broken or leaky faucet next spring.
RV anitfreeze does more than just protecting the lines from freezing, it also provides a mild lubricant to keep the water pump internals smooth and faucet seals fresh and from drying out.
Of course there are variables as well. some climates people do fine just blowing the lines out and never have an issue. This all depends on their elevation, relative humidity and how low their temperatures get.
I know some areas of Minnesota can match us for low temperatures.

[Jagiven]

I blew out the lines today. Everytime I went back to to the kitchen faucet, I would blow out a 1/4 to an 1/8 cup more. I'll probably pump the antifreeze in tomorrow once I'm dome cleaning. I blow out the antifreeze when done, so I might see how much more water comes out of the kitchen faucet first.

[Seann45]

Blowing out the lines is all that is really needed.. HOWEVER you have to remember that the pump is a low point and does not get blown out same with the little pre filter just before the pump.. if your just blowing out lines make sure to unscrew these 2 and drain them. Then to let the water "settle" in all the lines and blow them out again.. Those that had problems did not do a proper job... don't forget to flush the toilet several times

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Seann45

Blowing out the lines is all that is really needed.. HOWEVER you have to remember that the pump is a low point and does not get blown out same with the little pre filter just before the pump.. if your just blowing out lines make sure to unscrew these 2 and drain them. Then to let the water "settle" in all the lines and blow them out again.. Those that had problems did not do a proper job... don't forget to flush the toilet several times

Very well stated. I suggest you set up a routine [kitchen faucets, then bathroom shower, etc and finish with the toilet flush and then the outside shower]. Then go back thru the whole process a second time.

If you want to do the pink stuff, all the power to you, but I have been doing the air compressor method for the last 10 years and the only problem I had was the head on the shower handheld. I removed the hose at the faucet and blew out the shower lines, but failed to open the head to break the vacumn and allow the shower head/hose to drain. Yes and you need to finish up by pouring a cup of pink stuff in each p-trap.

Either way works but air is free and allows you to winterize on the fly and rewinterize quickly if you need to use the system again for a quick winter outing with moderate weather.

[Jagiven]

So today, I added the pink stuff. I decided to see how much more water I would get out of the faucets first. Virtually nothing out of all the faucets, except for the 1/4 cup from the kitchen. I could hear it gurgling, but not much more was coming. When I added the pink stuff, I decided to collect the fluid as it came out. At first you could tell at each faucet was slightly diluted, a little less than an 1/8 cup. Except for the kitchen faucet, at least 1 full cup was very diluted for both the hot and cold lines.

[go wild]

Another Minnesotan with a 17Z here...I use the pink every year since 2010 with no problems. I just winterized it last night, took maybe 15 minutes max. Drain the lines, flip the hot water bypass valves, flip the 2 valves by the pump to use the suction line, start the pump, open each faucet till pink shows, shut off pump, done.

In the spring I sanitize the lines and fresh water tank, during this process the pink is pushed out of the lines, with no residual taste/color/odor at all.

[North of 49°]

The winters here in Manitoba aren't much different than Minnesota. An extra effort in the fall can save some serious money in the spring. I blow out the lines, pump antifreeze through, then blow them out again. That way, if there's anything remaining in the lines, it's just antifreeze. More work, I know, but it's better safe than sorry. In the spring, I fill the freshwater tank with sanitized water and pump it through until the remaining antifreeze is gone, and then let it sit for a while.

[bankr63]

Originally Posted by Pomacanthus

Im a total anti toxin type of guy and the thought of residual antifreeze makes me wary, not only that but you would have to flush it all back out.

One thing to be sure of is that you are using plumbing anti-freeze. This product is not toxic, that is why it is approved for winterizing drinking water systems. I wouldn't want to drink a glass of it, but it ain't gonna kill 'ya.

Same reason I use iosan to sanitize in the spring. This is the stuff farms use to sanitize milking equipment; makes me a lot more comfortable than using bleach. Although it does foam quite a bit and takes a little while to flush out of the system, it won't harm you.

[Pomacanthus]

Dumb Question - Where is the bypass for the hot water heat? I decided for $6 worth of antifreeze it wasn't worth the risk. I opened the door to the hot water heater, removed the nut (nothing came out) but couldn't find the bypass valves...maybe they are inside under the seat? TIA

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by Pomacanthus

Dumb Question - Where is the bypass for the hot water heat? I decided for $6 worth of antifreeze it wasn't worth the risk. I opened the door to the hot water heater, removed the nut (nothing came out) but couldn't find the bypass valves...maybe they are inside under the seat? TIA

Yes, under the seat where ever the hot water heater is. There should be a removable access panel under the cushion.

[Dagwood]

Originally Posted by NVGun40

$.02 from Alaska here. I blow my lines out with compressed air, not just at the low point drains but by rotating through every faucet as well. I then charge the whole system with RV antifreeze.
The reason, is there is always some residual water left in the faucet gaskets, and droplets throughout the lines. As temperatures change and condensation happens it is inevitable that you will end up with more water pooling in the low points of the lines. Generally, this isn't to much of a problem because the frozen water can still expand. What happens when that low point hits a fitting or elbow? Then as Delebra indicated, residual water which gets trapped into faucet gaskets and valves can cause just enough pressure to ensure you have a broken or leaky faucet next spring.
RV anitfreeze does more than just protecting the lines from freezing, it also provides a mild lubricant to keep the water pump internals smooth and faucet seals fresh and from drying out.
Of course there are variables as well. some climates people do fine just blowing the lines out and never have an issue. This all depends on their elevation, relative humidity and how low their temperatures get.
I know some areas of Minnesota can match us for low temperatures.

X2 on this. I am never convinced all the water is blown out when I do it so I blow, then add RV Antifreeze throughout. Best of both worlds and I've had zero problems up here in our Canadian Winters.

[Kywomanmsu]

I have a Jayco Jay Feather 17z Ultra Lite. This is my first winter with it. I need to purchase a cover as it will be stored outside. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas on the route to go? What do you do about the antenna on the top? I don't want to damage it?

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by Kywomanmsu

I have a Jayco Jay Feather 17z Ultra Lite. This is my first winter with it. I need to purchase a cover as it will be stored outside. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas on the route to go? What do you do about the antenna on the top? I don't want to damage it?

I would recommend starting a new thread, you will get more hits. As for the antenna, a Phillips screws driver will loosen a adjustment screw, tip it down and tighten.

[greobr33]

I have been using air for the last few years but had the filter bowl at the pump crack on my this year. My RV guy had dozens of them, I asked why and he said it is a common problem with getting all the water out of that area. He recommended using anti-freeze because of the seals in the pump a faucets. He said it keeps them lubricated and they last a lot longer.

So this year air then anti-freeze.

Happy trails,

Greg