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Old 07-04-2020, 05:04 PM   #1
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Wire gauge / rating for 30a

Hello

At our camper and the power is not great. Dropping below 100v per my inline surge guard remote monitor, which means no power for the AC. Kinda hot out for that at the moment.

I'm not saying I'm going to. But, if I wanted to bypass my inline surge guard what gauge wire do I need to do so?

When it was installed, a good foot or so of the line was cut to accommodate for the size of the surge guard. I'm just curious what size that wire is if I wanted to just pigtail it all together to essentially bypass the protector.

And, yeah, I know. It's a bad idea. Hah.
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:06 PM   #2
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Oh. I should add this is the wire from the shore power to the breaker panel. It has an orange wrapping for the hot, neutral, and ground.
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:17 PM   #3
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:27 PM   #4
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Thanks!
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:56 PM   #5
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At our camper and the power is not great. Dropping below 100v per my inline surge guard remote monitor, which means no power for the AC. Kinda hot out for that at the moment.

I'm not saying I'm going to. But, if I wanted to bypass my inline surge guard what gauge wire do I need to do so?
Why do you want to bypass the surge guard? They don't restrict voltage. Have you checked the incoming voltage at the pedestal with a meter to see what it is?
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Old 07-04-2020, 09:12 PM   #6
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That sounds like everyone's running their A/C, and maybe the park power system's not up to handling it. If the park voltage is low, everyone else has the same situation. If we were there, our EMS would've shut down at 108 volts.
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:13 AM   #7
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If your AC voltage goes to 100 volts there is a chance you can burn up the unit and the trailer. At the least it will kill your AC motor. Since you have surge guard it will drop power to the trailer when the voltage gets too high or low, between 108 and 136. When the voltage gets back to normal it will wait 2-1/2 minutes and turn back on. So don't bypass it.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:05 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by jbagnall View Post
Hello

At our camper and the power is not great. Dropping below 100v per my inline surge guard remote monitor, which means no power for the AC. Kinda hot out for that at the moment.

I'm not saying I'm going to. But, if I wanted to bypass my inline surge guard what gauge wire do I need to do so?

When it was installed, a good foot or so of the line was cut to accommodate for the size of the surge guard. I'm just curious what size that wire is if I wanted to just pigtail it all together to essentially bypass the protector.

And, yeah, I know. It's a bad idea. Hah.
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Old 07-05-2020, 02:12 PM   #9
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Yeah - the power at the pedestal / campground is bad. There is a utility issue where they have 90 days to replace some lines that feed the campground. The issue just happened last week.

The voltage drops below the allowed limit of the EMS (I think it's 102 -- I forget) and then shuts down for something like 2-3 minutes. So that's how I lose power. It must have went on and off something like 100 times over the weekend. Didn't even matter if I had the AC on or off (because the voltage at the pedestal is junk).

The EMS is for sure doing its job and I'm just gonna leave it be. I believe the utility company let some more power flow through at night because I was able to sleep comfortably in the AC.

But it got me thinking "what if I ever need to bypass this thing". So I'll get some #10 wire and keep it handy just in case.

Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2020, 02:14 PM   #10
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I might consider one of those autoformer things. But they are so expensive and I haven't really read to understand the pros and cons yet.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:27 PM   #11
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Low voltage is the biggest killer of electrical items, since when the voltage drops, the amperage goes up, and melts things....

If you're going to be staying there a while, and they won't fix the power supply, an autoformer might help boost the voltage. Also, see, it pays to have the EMS in place, it saved you from damage to all your electronics. DON'T remove it...
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