x17z Battery Question

[JE78]

This is my first post and I feel pretty silly asking it but here it goes. My wife and I just bought a brand new from the dealer 2018 X17z. We bought it home Saturday and set it up in the driveway. We connected it to the power in the garage and used it like that until last night when I disconnected the power. Today my son wanted to go in the camper so we went in and I went to flip on the lights and nothing happened. I checked everything else and there wasn't any power from the battery. The dealership installed a brand new Interstate battery, so I checked the battery compartment to make sure it was connected and it was. In the camper I can check the battery levels when i'm plugged into AC power and it shows it full unless that power is showing AC power? I checked the 30 and 40 amp fuses, the breakers and they're good but I have no power when on battery. The only things left on over night would have been the clock on the radio and microwave as well at the CO2 sensor, everything was off so I have a hard time believing it drained the battery in 24hrs.

To my knowledge there isn't a switch to battery button I need to hit some where, I read the manual and it doesn't say anything about having to change. I've done some research and what I have found pretty much says if your on AC it will choose AC over DC and if there is no AC it will run off the battery. I called the dealership a little late today so i'm hoping to hear something back tomorrow but if anyone has any idea's please let me know. Thanks!

[stateboy]

I just bought a new camper a couple months ago and just recently pulled it out of storage to begin prepping it for the summer season. When I bought the unit, it came with a brand new Interstate Battery that I immediately removed when I got home. I put it on the charger and was surprised to find it was at only about a 60% charge. Perhaps your battery was in a similar state and was already weak to begin with. I would have thought that it would have taken on a charge while you were running off shore power but I'm not familiar with your setup. Check the voltage at the battery and see what reading you get.

Also, to answer your question on the meter reading in the trailer, I think you're going to see it at 100% anytime you're plugged into shore power. If it's not showing anything right now (while not on shore power), it probably suggest it your battery is dead and needs to be recharged or replaced.

Jerry

[JE78]

Thanks Jerry.

I didn't check the voltage, just assumed that since it's 2 days old and no use it would be good. Rookie mistake. I'll check it tomorrow morning. Hopefully that's the issue and not something more serious.

[JE78]

Well I'm pretty sure something isn't right. I checked the battery in the camper and it was reading 12v. I have the battery from our old pop-up that's been sitting on a tender all winter in the garage reading 12v as well so I swapped the new one with that. Still no power.

[John from Central Florida]

JE,

Just curious: You say your getting 12 volts. Can you break that down a little more? For example, 12. what?

If you’re reading 12.0 you are near the 40% charge range.

[go wild]

The dealer should have installed an in-line fuse, probably located on top of the battery inside the battery box. This fuse allows you to control when the RV has access to the battery. The reason for this is that the RV always has a parasitic draw from the radio and CO sensor that will drain the battery if left connected for long periods of time. Check for this in-line fuse to see if it is there or not. Sounds like the fuse is pulled out.

[Subaru297]

Recheck all the fuses again and in particular look for a reverse polarity fuse. It may have blown. Even with only 12v in your battery your lights will still work.

Is your CO detector still lit up?

[JE78]

Thanks for the responses. I talked to the dealership and told them everything I've done. They had the same suggestion about the inline fuse. I'm also going to stop and get a 30 and 40 amp fuse. Even though they look fine there could be a issue. So we'll start there and if neither fix the issue it will go back to the dealership for warranty work.

[John7349]

Since this is a brand new trailer, you may have a red battery cut-off switch. Make sure it is actually switched on. It should be in a locked outside storage door for security.

When connected to "shore power" and the red battery cut-off switch is off, your 12v lights should still work via the converter.

[JE78]

I didn't see a cut off switch. I was up under the hitch all last night. The Dealership did a complete walk-thought with us front to back, inside and out before we took it home and there was no talk about a switch. Of course everything they did was on AC power so not sure if they even checked the battery power. I have to imagine they did though.

[Jagiven]

First, I do not recommend a 40 amp fuse. The 30 amp fuse is sized for the wire.

Do you own a multimeter? With the tt unplugged, check the battery voltage. Ideally a fully charged battery will team between 12.6 and 12.9 volts. Next plug in the ac power cord, the voltage to the battery will be greater than 14 volts. If it does not change, somewhere there is a break. Could be a fuse, or a disconnect switch. There is a slim chance of a broken wire. Also check your ground wire, you might have a bad connection to the tt frame.

My suspicion is a blown reverse polarity fuse, but it sounds as it maybe a disconnect switch., they are bright red, if you have one.

One last thought. By chance did you pull the ebrake cable which would engage the electric brakes? That can drain a battery over night.

[JE78]

Thanks to everyone who commented. Turns out there was a 30 amp fuse up front under the frame. This can blow when the power jack over extends or under extends. The tech that did our walk though didn't tell us about that one. Just said there is one in the camper. The fuse must had blown when they had it since it never worked for us. No big deal, and a good learning experience. Thanks for everyone's help.