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Old 01-13-2013, 07:28 PM   #1
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X23B - Drawer Removal

Hello All,

We have recently purchased a 2013 X23B and was wondering if anyone else has attempted to remove the drawer from under the table to provide additional space in the outdoor storage. I am looking to see if anyone has run into any complications or has advice on proceding. I have attached pictures (I found online, but are exactly the same as my trailer) for reference. My thoughts were to remove the drawer components and screw the drawer face back on to provide a nice looking false front. I will then check the wiring and possibly construct some protection surounds for any wiring as required.

Thanks for any help!

Nathan

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ID:	6148 This is a pic of the drawer suround from the outdoor storage.

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Size:  8.7 KB This is a pic of the drawer within the trailer.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:12 PM   #2
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Done it! And much more! Check out my Dinette Rebuild mod listed in my signature. In the process I moved the 7 pin connector wire feed into the TT, move the panel between the water heater and the storage area, created a linen storage area behind the seat back, and added lighting to the storage area. I did this on one of the hottest weekend of the summer and it took two days.

I left the drawer front to fill the hole and added a piano hinge so we can open it, but rearly do. I will be willing to talk in detail about it if you wish.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:06 AM   #3
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Yes, It was mod #1! I had it completed within 30 minutes of my X23B being home.... I used velcro strips to attach the drawer front, but plan to redo it with something more permanent.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:34 AM   #4
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I too removed the drawer immediately and then went back and did my dinette rebuild a month or two later
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:57 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info! you have really got my mind going on what I can do. I installed a TV tonight and afterwards took a good look at the dinette area. I love the linen idea, such a good use of space. I see that you moved the supports under the seat further back to open the storage up. Do you find that there is still enough support for the seat? I see that you moved the wire to the hot water heater, was that tough? did you have to splice all the wires again?

I think I have found my pet project for the next couple months.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:41 PM   #6
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First thing I did was to remove the draw and all the plywood, and place the drawer front back on (DW insisted). This allowed me to view things and determine how to proceed once I decided to go for it.

I will post more later; but here is a little note on the wiring.

The wire harness was one of the last things I moved but it was easy to move. I determined where I wanted it inside the H2O heater cabinet (basically under the 110V outlet), and once I confirmed the wire harness would reach, I contacted Jayco in advanced for the floor drawing to determine if any structural members would be in the way. From my calculations I would be drilling very close to a cross member. I drilled a hole about the same size as the OEM hole with a Fostner bit. Before moving the wire harness I photographed the pig tale and noted which wire was connected to what, and tagged each wire. To get enough wire harness length I pull the harness back from the tongue and re-routed the wires through the tongue a little bit. Just a side note before doing this I had way to much wire up front for my TV and was very concerned about pinching the wires due to the slack.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:30 PM   #7
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The demo work was probably the worst part of the overall project. Jayco LOVES staples, and I tried to reuse as much materials as possible. So when I removed a board I removed each staple.

To remove the finished top board that goes under your mattress there are 6 screws that hold it in place. There are two in the front and four in the back. They are the screws used to secure the black web straps and the white bug/dust shield. The dinette’s backrest as I recall had about six screws securing it to the side walls (2 per side) and two (??) securing it to the set bottom framing. It is very critical that you use a pencil and scribe a line indicating where the seatback goes. I did not do this and I had to spend a few extra minutes (30-45) test fitting to ensure I had everything placed right when I was reassembling things. In theory it should have been easy as I should have been able to align to the original screw holes. However, the OEM screw gun operator must have been having a bad day when he installed my seatback, as there was a lot of attempts to install it. Then I removed the rest of the seat framing. Just a note; the rest of the finish paneling around the dinette was never removed. However the ledge that holds the table when in the travel position had to be removed as I removed the 1” material behind it so that I could install a full length 1”x2 during the assembly work. I also removed the funny panel that is at the base of the floor and goes up a few inches along the front wall. Then I pulled on the front paneling (just held in place on the bottom by friction) to locate the wood framing behind it.

That was the demo work as I recall. Up to this point nothing was done that could not be put back together as original.
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