Impact of capping stovetop

[RobLO]

Would have been great to get this notice last fall when it was first known.
QUESTION:
Is the furnace on the same tree as the stovetop?
I saw a diagram that showed it on the same branch w/stovetop and opposite the fridge branch.
Since I capped off the stove (mine did trigger my gas sniffer tool) but it seems to have blocked the furnace from getting propane. The unit will start but shut off as fuel does not seem to get to it to fire up. I've got fuel all the way through to the BBQ outlet at the tail. And the fridge still works on propane.

[Jagiven]

Hard to say for sure. I know for my TT, each gas appliance home runs back to a single manifold. You can contact Jayco with your vin number and ask for the the gas plumbing schematic.

Pending on your furnace, you may have an LED light on the control board that will flash indicating the type of fault.

If you do not have an enclosed underbelly, count how many rubber hoses are connected to the manifold. Then count how many gas appliances you have. Should have one more hose than appliances (inlet gas line from the tank).

If the furnace does not want to light, I would say light your stove until you get a good solid stable flame. BUT, it sounds like you eliminated your stove. So I would then say light your water heater or an external stove/grill using your quick connect. Make sure to have good gas flow to those devices (sounds like you did this). Then light the furnace. My furnace usually takes a few tries to initially light if we have not used it in a long time.

If the furnace still does not want to light, but the fan runs for 20-30 seconds before the system shuts down, I would suspect a failure with the sail switch. On most RVs they can be difficult to access. Could be dirty or bad.

[RobLO]

We did have a mouse for a little while but we have used the furnace since getting the little bugger out with a live trap. It has just not worked since capping the stove.
All propane appliances work WH/fridge/BBQ but since capping the stovetop, it and furnace don't. Somewhere here, I think, I saw the diagram but not sure if it was 'home made" or from a manual. I will look for the sail switch.

Thanks

[Jagiven]

Can you describe the sequence of what happens when you turn the furnace on. Do you hear anything (clicks)? fan turns on?, if so, roughly how long before it shuts off. Do you hear the ignitor trying to light? Anything else? Your control board on the furnace may have an LED that will flash a code. What furnace do you have and what is the flash rate?

I really do not think disconnecting and capping the stove LP line is the issue, its just a coincidence.

Gas flows like water through your homes pipes. When it is flowing, and it gets to a tee, it just flows in the direction of the lowest pressure, aka the device that is calling for fuel.

[RobLO]

The furnace fan will kick on for 20-30 seconds, I don't hear any clicking it just shuts off.
Everything was working for our February and March camping trips to the ocean, the mouse was last year and have gone on 4+ trips since.
I get the path of least resistance and that is why I'm a little confused. What I'm trying to avoid is in we get around to having the stovetop warranty work done and if I mention the furnace issue I get charged for something that might not be necessary.
I just recalled, just now, that DW tripped and nailed to control panel at the entry to the bathroom. It has work after that but maybe there is an issue there.
But, I need to take a look at the sail switch.

[RobLO]

Well, I could not actually get to the sail switch due to the wiring being too tight.
There were more than just the blue connections to the switch itself and my only access was through the exhaust hole. And since I did not want to snip the zip tie holding them up out of the way, maybe voiding any warrantees I buttoned it all back up.
In taking the three air tubes and removing all power and finding the 'reset' on/off switch hidden behind the fridge gas hose and then putting it all back together it works just fine now.
My thinking now is the hard hit to the control panel shocked its system and just doing the 'reset' switch might be all that was needed.
An outside access door would have been nice.

[Jagiven]

Glad it is working. I would recommend downloading the manual and checking a few youtube videos on your furnace. DW will be mad this fall when it cold out and it fails.

[RobLO]

The issue is limited maneuvering of the furnace for good access to the switch. I might be able to get the sail switch out by reaching over the top of the furnace but the drawer frame under the fridge is limiting with my shorter arms. Or, a combination of exhaust hole and over the top. I can get the lower screw out of the switch through the hole but not the top. Fear of stripping upper screw head here.
The manual would not help with install/removal as it is the multiple power wires zipped out of the way (with the blue ons to the switch). Once I put my hand in the exhaust hole I'm just feeling my way around and the other connections are kind of a rats nest and I fear I might not get them back in their proper connections.
The YouTubes do not show my wiring issue. They got me most of the way there though. They were all straight forward and all I looked at showed just the blue switch wires.

Thanks for the insight and allowing me to ramble.