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Old 11-27-2014, 04:28 PM   #11
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Hey , thanks for tips so far. I pulled each of the white wires from the buss bar on the IOTA box, the negatives are attached through the fuses, to wire leads that are permanently affixed to the box, joined to the trailer harness black wires.

I've rewired houses and cars, but this thing is a bit backwards and I'm not sure exactly how its setup, I have no wiring diagram on the Jayco instructions and having to do a lot of troubleshooting.

I've one at a time used the meter to check amp draw though every wire on the trailer at the circuit box. One made a clunk noise when connected and drew some power...turned out it was something from the water heater. I just capped that off with a spare wirenut. That maybe normal, I am newbie I have no idea but seems odd to have it drawing power just to run the propane water heater. I found the one that had a 11 amp draw and capped it off and marked it. Jayco made their own harnesses so the wires are not color coded or marked on the white side.

I have tried taking the IOTA box out of the equation as I think the charger is causing a current drain. I used short wires to connect all the whites that did not draw power to the power lead from the battery one of which is a 10ga white wire which was connected to the wire bus on the box, and the lights and stuff still didn't work. I thought the black wires went to a ground, but I can't find one to test. This is a bit odd. I'm still messing about. I took a long wire to the battery to test but not really making a lot of progress except for finding what appeared to be the current draw.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:41 PM   #12
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OH.....DUH! I recalled (creaky brain gears squeaking and starting to turn) these are wired like HOUSES not CARS and white is GROUND not Positive. OH.... that explains some have to do more looking now. (slapping forehead!)
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:52 PM   #13
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Spare battery? Are you hooking up a new battery in parallel to another one? Or just hooking up a single battery?
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:04 PM   #14
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It didn't have a battery. Had a box, three leads with bolt lugs. Two heavy white wires, one smaller black wire that I had sort of ignored as it was wired to the E brake and had a sort of hokey splice which looked like it went to the tow harness.

I am now almost sure, that both whites are BOTH grounds and the black (although this doesn't make tons of sense as its only about 10 ga) is the positive. (slaps head!) I had seen one of the white wires go to frame, and the other went back into the trailer, and I had assumed that since both were same size that one was + and one -, the frame was the negative. Big doh. I doubt there was anything wrong with the whole deal, just user error!! Going to test.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:37 PM   #15
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Understood. RV wiring is it's own thing and color codes don't seem to show up. DC 2 wire positives should be red and the grounds should be grey or green. RV's tend to use AC wiring color codes. So the rule is check everything with a meter.
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:39 PM   #16
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oh the problem is solved thanks guys it was just a rookie hooking up the battery I can't believe I made that mistake but there was no markings on the wires I would have thought the two heavy wires would have gone to either post of the battery. Its working fine now. at least I know NOW more than most people about the wiring system on a Jayco travel trailer!
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:41 PM   #17
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:58 AM   #18
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Sounds like it may take a few years to re-hookup everything you have disassembled haha...

What I always do on the battery is find the stamped word NEG on the battery case and make sure this is the terminal going to frame ground regardless what the color is..

RV Trailer wiring codes is BLACK for +12VDC and WHITE for -12VDC Frame ground.
Usually any solid WHITE wire with a stripe color on it will be POS +12VDC.

Of course the automotive world has the RED Wire as +12VDC and the BLACK wire as -12VDC frame ground.

Since the battery is used in both worlds (RV and AUTOMOTIVE) you can find a mix of color schemes. Your JENSEN AM/FM RADIO comes out of the box with RED for +12VDC and BLACK for -12VDC. SO right away you will find a RED wire on top of a BLACK wire at the first junction strip.

makes us old timers roll over in our graves haha...

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Old 11-28-2014, 09:22 AM   #19
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My training in problem solving is to work backwards from anything you might have done or changed. Since you have found the problem, this would have gotten you to the problem as it sounds like do to the color issue you had crossed the wiring to the battery. Have done similar things myself and its kind of like proof reading your own document. You can look right at something you did and not see the mistake. Letting someone else trouble shoot [proof read] the problem and they may have seen what you couldn't.

On the color code issue, I just installed a 600w inverter in my White Hawk using black #2 wire for both leads to the battery. To avoid crossing the connections which would have potentially blown the inverter, I did a meter test to match up the ends of each cable so I could mark cable 1 ends and cable 2 ends as they were the same color. Once this was done, I took a 2" piece of red garden hose and secured it to the ends of cable 1. From that point on I was protected from a brain fart that might have resulted to a cross connection at the time of implimentation or down the road when I was switching out the inverter or the battery.
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:35 PM   #20
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Yes, USER ERROR!!!

How flippin' embarrassing. OH well. I had only removed the whites from the inside TT terminal bus on the charging unit, so it was simple to reconnect. I only had to reconnect the battery properly. I do have one bathroom light that doesn't work. I had most trouble with the stupid fuse connectors being stiff and un-forgiving, hard to get them back in, so that's the first place I'll look on that one. And just use a meter now that I know how they are wired using home wiring color codes.

Seeing how there is about two 8 or 10ga leads from negative battery to the negative bus on the charger, and only a crappy looking 12 ga looking wire with a bad looking splice on the positive, I'm going to invest in some additional wire (red LOL) to go from the battery to the charger/fuse box - as it makes no sense to have such heavy wires only on one side.

OTOH, I was able to camp and use my pump and lighting and cell phone charging w/o any assist from Thursday night through sunday by just jury-rigging two 12x8" solar panels I got surplus from a electronics parts wholesaler. It was putting out under load .3 amps which wasn't too shabby and while on the light side of charging kept things going. I need to check if they have diaodes - I just disconnected at dusk - but they worked. I'd like to get a bit bigger one or just add the 3rd one I have and mount to the roof...but that's another project. I have a ebay solar charge controller but after reading I think its designed to have more amps driving it, as it itself adsorbs some power. Anyway I like the idea of having LED lights showing charge status but will have to test it at home with my battery first.

Anyway guys and gals, I got that figured out. I'll have to post a picture but that would involve hosting a site somewhere to load it and then get link usually on these forums.
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