2007 31BHS Noob winterizing question

[dabiz7]

I have watched some videos on winterizing...

1) Winterizing the grey, black water looks straight forward, pour some anti freeze down the drains, fill the p traps, done

2) Pull the water heater plug, drain water heater, switch bypass valve to bypass water heater.

3) Now, why can't I just dump a couple gallons of antifreeze in the outside fill port to the fresh water tank, turn the the water pump on, and go around to all the faucets and let them run until antifreeze comes out ???

Done ???

[Hoppy220]

Not sure how many gallons it would take before your pump would pick up the antifreeze, then come spring you will have to flush the fresh water tank. With that being said yes, you can do it that way. But why not just stick hose in jug, done??? If you choose your route please post how many gallons it takes. I'm betting it will be well over the 2 or 3 the using the winterizing hose takes

[Isaacs]

The wide flat bottom on most campers almost always leaves some harmless water in the tank no matter how hard you try to drain it. This water will mix with your antifreeze and dilute it thus raising your freeze temperature. Use the hose!

[RPreeb]

Originally Posted by Isaacs

The wide flat bottom on most campers almost always leaves some harmless water in the tank no matter how hard you try to drain it. This water will mix with your antifreeze and dilute it thus raising your freeze temperature. Use the hose!

I don't have a hose in my X213 - suggestions? I don't see any choice. I can't figure out how to access the pump in my X213 to even install one (hint: I'm a klutz at such things. I can figure stuff out and often fix what isn't working, but finding things that are well hidden and then trying to mod them is not my forté).

I'll also add that I'm a total newb as far as TT ownership is concerned. Also, my nearest RV service shop is a good 2 hours away in Longmont CO, and even then, nobody around there has any appointments available until after Christmas.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by dabiz7

I have watched some videos on winterizing...

1) Winterizing the grey, black water looks straight forward, pour some anti freeze down the drains, fill the p traps, done

2) Pull the water heater plug, drain water heater, switch bypass valve to bypass water heater.

3) Now, why can't I just dump a couple gallons of antifreeze in the outside fill port to the fresh water tank, turn the the water pump on, and go around to all the faucets and let them run until antifreeze comes out ???

Done ???

I do your step one last.

On a 2007 you might or might not have an antifreeze port between the FW tank and the pump. Have you checked? If you do, there will have two valves before the pump. One to isolate the FW tank and the other to isolate the Antifreeze pickup. Look for your pump find the filter screen, and follow that tube towards the FW tank (it goes through the floor) and ensure you do not have a pickup port. Usually they are not to had to add. It will make your life easier. But if you do not have one and you do not want or have time to add one. Yes you can add RV antifreeze to the FW tank. But as others said, getting the residue out in the spring will take a lot of flushing.

Another option is to unscrew the hose connection at the pump inlet, and screw on a new fitting with a cheap clear tube long enough to reach your antifreeze jug. You should be able to get the parts at your local hardware store for under $20, and a few hours of work, probably laying on your belly. With the new SharkBite fittings you probably could have it done quickly, but at a higher price.

Good Luck

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by RPreeb

I don't have a hose in my X213 - suggestions? I don't see any choice. I can't figure out how to access the pump in my X213 to even install one (hint: I'm a klutz at such things. I can figure stuff out and often fix what isn't working, but finding things that are well hidden and then trying to mod them is not my forté).

I'll also add that I'm a total newb as far as TT ownership is concerned. Also, my nearest RV service shop is a good 2 hours away in Longmont CO, and even then, nobody around there has any appointments available until after Christmas.

Odds are the pump and the plumbing you will need to access are very close to the water heater. So look for inside access to the water heater, like a hatch, or a board that lifts out. May even have a thumb hole in it.

In my old 2014 165RB I had to remove the dinette cushion and the board under it in order to access things. Much easier in my 23RLSW.

Roger

[RPreeb]

Originally Posted by rkresge

Odds are the pump and the plumbing you will need to access are very close to the water heater. So look for inside access to the water heater, like a hatch, or a board that lifts out. May even have a thumb hole in it.

In my old 2014 165RB I had to remove the dinette cushion and the board under it in order to access things. Much easier in my 23RLSW.

Roger

I can get to to the water heater to switch the 2 valves to bypass. That takes removing 2 screws and lifting a 1/4" plywood board under the dinette seat. But no pump there. When I turn on the pump, the buzz seems to come from below and just right of the sink, but I can't find any access there.

[RPreeb]

Update: I found the water pump, and it is set up for pumping antifreeze, so all of my worries are for naught. Thanks to everyone for such good, accurate information, and for helping me overcome my relative stupidity.

It would really be nice if the owner's manual actually contained any useful information.

[mike837go]

Originally Posted by RPreeb

...snip...
It would really be nice if the owner's manual actually contained any useful information.

Yeah, most of us figure that one out eventually, too.

[rkresge]

Originally Posted by RPreeb

Update: I found the water pump, and it is set up for pumping antifreeze, so all of my worries are for naught. Thanks to everyone for such good, accurate information, and for helping me overcome my relative stupidity.

It would really be nice if the owner's manual actually contained any useful information.

Yes - dang manuals are pretty generic. Very little model-specific information that would actually be helpful. Last year I looked for *hours* before I found the clear hose for pumping antifreeze. Made sure the dealer and I could find it during the PDI on my new one.

Roger

[dabiz7]

On my 2007 31BHS, there is a slide out panel in the wall over the furnace that has the bypass valves and tubing for the water heater. I can figure out which valves to open and close to bypass the water heater, but do I need to detach a line and blow some air into the water heater (with the drain plug out) to make sure there is no latent water in the water heater? or is just removing the drain plug enough?

The water pump appears to be under the sink counter, against the outer wall, behind a panel inside the storage door just inside the entryway. I have not got down there to see what is going on, seems like a hard place to get to, must be a way to add some more line to get out to the door so there isn't as much crawling on the floor. Sooooo, assuming the correct valves are under there, adjust valves, put pickup line in a bottle of antifreeze, go over and turn the water pump on, let it build up pressure, go around to all faucets, toilet, etc. and open til pink runs ???? Am I on the right track?

One final question, my camp site water supply connection is out the back, next to the shore power cord storage. How do I get antifreeze into this line????

[NVGun40]

Originally Posted by RPreeb

Snip:

It would really be nice if the owner's manual actually contained any useful information.

Was I supposed to read the owners manual?

[bankr63]

Pulling the plug in the water heater is generally enough. It was explained to me that a little bit of water in the bottom of the tank is not a problem as there is lots of expansion room in the tank. However, make sure there are no low points for water to collect in the pipes between the bypass valves and the tank - these need to be empty. Best to leave the plug out of the tank as well, or very loose to let any water out, but also to keep critters out too.

Yes to your procedure, but better to pop the low point drains and either let gravity or air pressure get most of the water out of the system before pumping AF in. You don't strictly have to do this but you will need to run more AF through to ensure that it is not diluted too much as it displaces the water still in the lines.

Once the system is mostly full of pink, go outside and pull the screen off your FW connection. There should be a little "button" in there. Stand to the side and press that button (it is the top of the backflow preventer/check valve) the pressure will cause the pink to spray out of the connection.

[bankr63]

Originally Posted by NVGun40

Was I supposed to read the owners manual?

Only if you plan on making contributions to the cuss jar...

[RPreeb]

Originally Posted by NVGun40

Was I supposed to read the owners manual?

I never sat down and read it, but I thought that it might a least have some value as a reference... silly me.

What did people do before You Tube?