2010 Eagle 28.5 Rear Molding Strip Water leak

krsmitty · 03-21-2013, 06:37 AM

Have a water leak behind the rear wall of my Eagle 28.5. It seems to be leaking somewhere around the rear molding strip. The leak has caused wood damage all along the rear wall and the whole wall will need to be replaced to fix it. Estimated cost of $2,500 - 3,000. It started when the RV was less than a year old, and may have even been there off the factory floor. Even though the RV was still under warranty Jayco refused to fix it and still refuses to fix it today. They say it was my responsibility to make sure everything is sealed correctly. Unfortunately, there was no indication of a leak until the damage was already done. My insurance will cover the repair, minus the $500 deductible. BUT, IMHO Jayco should be covering the cost. I should not have to pay $30,000 plus for a new RV and 6 months - 1 year later have a major leak problem.

I have gone up several levels in the Jayco chain with no luck. As a Good Sam member I submitted a complaint with their Action Line several days ago.

Wanted to see if anyone else has ran into this situation and was able to rectify with Jayco.

Thanks,

Locky66 · 03-21-2013, 07:42 AM

How many people have you spoke with? I have never heard of such a thing as to it is your responsibility to make sure it is sealed right. Have them email their answers to you so you have it in writing.

krsmitty · 03-21-2013, 07:54 AM

I have spoke to several of the Customer Service Reps, Customer Service Supervisor, Warranty Manager. They were all very adamant about it. Owner is responsible for leaks etc. if due to sealant issues. They all insist it is stated so in the owners manual.

Yes I have kept all the emails etc.

Seann45 · 03-21-2013, 08:55 AM

It is right in the owners manual that you have to check the calking... Jayco is not responsible for leaks...

krsmitty · 03-21-2013, 09:09 AM

I understand that. Where the leak(s) is supposedly happening is along the rear molding. The dealer says that water is leaking through/around the screws. #1 - There is no caulking or sealant there now. Just the butyl tape underneath it. According to the dealer there is no way to inspect or reseal that area without completely removing the molding and put down new tape. Something they do not recommend to do. So, basically there is no way to "check the caulking" in that area. There is none.

RVhiker · 03-21-2013, 12:47 PM

Since I have a 2011 28.5RLS, I'll be watching this thread closely.

Does your trailer have a large window at the rear? It can also leak.

Why does your dealer think that the water is leaking in the screw holes? Has he done some sort of test? Does he see evidence of this of some sort? If so, what? The molding on my trailer goes up each side on the rear panel of the trailer and then bends across the roof for about 8 inches. Does your dealer mean that the molding on the roof is leaking or on the vertical part of the rear?

If your dealer is correct about the leak being in the screw holes that attach the molding, how can that possible be your fault? There is no caulking to apply to the screws that attach the molding, the water proofing is provided by the butyl underneath and the plastic strip on top. Where would Jayco have had you caulk to prevent this leak?

While I agree that if there is no caulking to maintain then it seems logical that the owner is not responsible for maintaining caulking that is not there. However, that is not how Jayco sees the world. If your window is leaking - presumably without Jayco applied caulking -- Jayco will tell you that the leak is your fault because you did not apply caulking. Seems nuts, but that's what they told me.

tinlizzie23 · 03-21-2013, 02:09 PM

Does all this mean that Jayco is not responsible for initial caulking of the trailer when new ? In other words, if you buy the trailer new, and it is not caulked properly, and starts leaking the first camping trip, this is the owner's fault and responsibility ??? I would expect the caulking to last at least through the 2-year warranty period, if I paid that much $$ for it. For Jayco to refuse to do anything when you are well within warranty (6 mos - 1 year), well, this seems nuts . . . . . . BTW, no such disclaimer for caulking responsibility is present anywhere in my 2004 Designer owner's manual - I checked.

krsmitty · 03-21-2013, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVhiker

Since I have a 2011 28.5RLS, I'll be watching this thread closely.

Does your trailer have a large window at the rear? It can also leak.

Why does your dealer think that the water is leaking in the screw holes? Has he done some sort of test? Does he see evidence of this of some sort? If so, what? The molding on my trailer goes up each side on the rear panel of the trailer and then bends across the roof for about 8 inches. Does your dealer mean that the molding on the roof is leaking or on the vertical part of the rear?

If your dealer is correct about the leak being in the screw holes that attach the molding, how can that possible be your fault? There is no caulking to apply to the screws that attach the molding, the water proofing is provided by the butyl underneath and the plastic strip on top. Where would Jayco have had you caulk to prevent this leak?

While I agree that if there is no caulking to maintain then it seems logical that the owner is not responsible for maintaining caulking that is not there. However, that is not how Jayco sees the world. If your window is leaking - presumably without Jayco applied caulking -- Jayco will tell you that the leak is your fault because you did not apply caulking. Seems nuts, but that's what they told me.

Yes, it has the large window in the rear. I am assuming that the dealer looked for the, or so they have told me. The dealer seems to think that water is getting through the screws, not sure why or how they came to that conclusion. Jayco does not believe that. They believe the leak is coming from around of the edge of the molding somehow. That is why they say I should have caulked around the edge, even though there is no caulk/sealant there now.

That is what they may believe, but does not mean I have to agree with it. Received notice from Good Sam that my dispute has been to sent to Jayco. Sit back and see what happens.

krsmitty · 03-21-2013, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinlizzie23

Does all this mean that Jayco is not responsible for initial caulking of the trailer when new ? In other words, if you buy the trailer new, and it is not caulked properly, and starts leaking the first camping trip, this is the owner's fault and responsibility ??? I would expect the caulking to last at least through the 2-year warranty period, if I paid that much $$ for it. For Jayco to refuse to do anything when you are well within warranty (6 mos - 1 year), well, this seems nuts . . . . . . BTW, no such disclaimer for caulking responsibility is present anywhere in my 2004 Designer owner's manual - I checked.

That is what it seems they are saying. It is your responsibility if a leak occurs due to a sealant problem. I AGREE, sealant/caulking should last more than 6 months...1 year...even 2 years.

**norty1** · 03-21-2013, 06:21 PM

The owner is responsible for inspecting the roof or paying someone else to do it yearly.

krackeer · 03-21-2013, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norty1

The owner is responsible for inspecting the roof or paying someone else to do it yearly.

so that would mean the first inspection would be due at or before having owned the rv for one year. if it were to leak during that first year, wouldn't jayco then be responsible? I pay in the fall of each year to have my dealer winterize my TT. It costs $85, but includes a roof inspection. He then sends me a letter saying that it was winterized and the roof inspected, and no issues found. Of course I clean the roof a couple times each year and inspect it myself at that time. Guess that might not be a bad $85 investment as I have a signed letter from a jayco dealer stating that my roof is in fine shape!

tinlizzie23 · 03-21-2013, 06:51 PM

OK, not to be nitpicky, but what period of time is caulking covered by warranty on a brand new unit ? If owner is responsible for yearly inspecting and/or recaulking, does that mean Jayco will step up to the plate for up to the first year, but no longer ? If that is the case, why do they not state clearly in the 2 year warranty that it either excludes caulking altogether, or is limited to 1 year ? Nowhere in my owners manual or warranty statement does it mention anything about caulking not being covered for the full 2 years. It only states that the trailer and all parts thereof, except appliances and other parts (like tires) whose manufacturers have separate warranties, is covered for 2 years.

krsmitty · 03-21-2013, 07:10 PM

I originally took my in around the first year and was told no...was not covered by warranty.

Seann45 · 03-22-2013, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krsmitty

I understand that. Where the leak(s) is supposedly happening is along the rear molding. The dealer says that water is leaking through/around the screws. #1 - There is no caulking or sealant there now. Just the butyl tape underneath it. According to the dealer there is no way to inspect or reseal that area without completely removing the molding and put down new tape. Something they do not recommend to do. So, basically there is no way to "check the caulking" in that area. There is none.

There should have been calking on the screw heads... at least there was on mine... and if there had not been I would have put some on..

**Crabman** · 03-22-2013, 08:56 AM

Here is what my manual says about sealants:

"Caution:
Failure to properly maintain or reseal your RV may result in serious water damage to your RV. This damage is not covered by the Towable Limited Warranty."

Heres another excerpt

"It is recommended that you or your dealer inspect all sealants a minimum of every six months.Make sure to check all four sides of the RV including moldings, windows, doors, vents, and exterior attachments. Reseal as necessary as preventative maintenance.

Replace sealant and cap seal if you notice any cracks, gaps, lifting, looseness, shrinkage, voids, or any sign of physical deterioration.Complete your repairs immediately to prevent damage to your RV."

It goes on with more detail and pics of where and how to seal, etc, and so on. There is a page and a half just on sealing and sealing maintanence. Not saying this applies to the OP situation, just showing their policies and recommendations on sealing. It seems if you do not inspect and reseal every six months you are on your own for water entry repairs in many cases.

RVhiker · 03-22-2013, 09:27 AM

It seems to me that if a trailer can't be guaranteed against leaks for two years as it comes from the factory, then the manufacturer is using a poor design, poor materials, or poor assembly techniques. I know that many trailer warranties have similar exclusions, and I know that I bought my trailer knowing these exclusions. But these exclusions also mean that trailer manufacturers (not just Jayco) who tout quality are not really providing quality to the consumer, and "bumper to bumper" warranties do not warranty all that the term "bumper to bumper" implies.

krsmitty · 03-22-2013, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVhiker

It seems to me that if a trailer can't be guaranteed against leaks for two years as it comes from the factory, then the manufacturer is using a poor design, poor materials, or poor assembly techniques. I know that many trailer warranties have similar exclusions, and I know that I bought my trailer knowing these exclusions. But these exclusions also mean that trailer manufacturers (not just Jayco) who tout quality are not really providing quality to the consumer, and "bumper to bumper" warranties do not warranty all that the term "bumper to bumper" implies.

Agree 100%...I should not have to pay good money for a new RV and worry about leaks/sealant/etc within 6 months of buying it. In my case, there was NO indication of any leaks until the damage was done. Hard to prevent when you do not know it is there!

**Crabman** · 03-22-2013, 12:14 PM

I was up on my roof today and the rear seam is like yours, the roofing material folds over the back and the seam is under the molding where there is no visible caulk. There is nothing to really inspect or caulk there every 6 months unless you pulled all the molding out and removed the screws to expose the butyl which no one is going to do. If that is what was leaking I think you have a legitimate beef.

krsmitty · 03-22-2013, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crabman

I was up on my roof today and the rear seam is like yours, the roofing material folds over the back and the seam is under the molding where there is no visible caulk. There is nothing to really inspect or caulk there every 6 months unless you pulled all the molding out and removed the screws to expose the butyl which no one is going to do. If that is what was leaking I think you have a legitimate beef.

Exactly!

Quick Step · 03-24-2013, 11:35 AM

I feel for you on the leak issue, along with the escape window leak in our 24 FBS I also found a leak area in the lower front corner of the front cargo door. The sealant applied around the lower part of the door corner was sunken in (poor factory assembly line application) and it had a 1/8" hole that was allowing water to enter and flow down the wall floor plate and exit out along the floor approx 4-5' from the cargo hatch. This was a very hard leak area to locate and it was about ready to drive me nuts looking for it, the only way I found it was a couple of cargo door screws I examined were rusty and the floor wall plate was damp around the cargo door. I have pictures of the hole and the way the sealant was applied. I am hoping to be able to download and post my post my pics. I have also found sealant under the corner caps that has dried, cracked and pulled away from the TT siding that will also be getting resealed very soon. I wonder if Jayco looks at posts on this website?

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