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Old 06-21-2014, 01:12 PM   #1
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26BH plumbing problems

I'm paying the price for failing to winterize last fall (plenty of excuses, but that's all they are). Be that as it may, I've got some problems that I'd appreciate some advice on.

I have a 2010 JayFlight 26BH.

First problem was that the toilet valve burst. Found they by connecting to my home's water system an finding water spraying all over the bathroom ( my 12 yr old couldn't figure out what I meant while yelling, "Turn it off! Turn it off". Oh well... Cleaned that up and ran a dehumidifier overnight and installed a replacement valve. Reconnecting home water back up and watching closely inside and out revealed no other leaks.

But...

After filling the fresh water tank 2/3 full, according to the panel inside, it appeared that the stock Shurflo 2088 pump was dead. I just finished replacing that with a Shurflo Revolution 4008, which claims to be a 'direct replacement' for the 2088. When I turn on the water pump switch, it runs, but doesn't shut off. The sound changes somewhat when the lines become pressurized, but it doesn't shut off. When I open a tap, it sputters as if it's sucking air. I've opened each tap, hot and cold, in turn in case there is air in the lines but it never clears.

Any suggestions before I make an appoint at the nearest service center (a Camping World 25 mikes away)?

Thanks,

Bruce
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Old 06-21-2014, 01:27 PM   #2
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Assume you have looked at all the inside hose conncetions for a leack or burst. Make sure low point drain are closed.

Next I would check water heater plug seated correctly and the pressure release vent is closed.

Then look at the back side (inside the tailer side under the rear bunk) of the water heater and make sure those connections haven't failed.

Also, make sure the outside shower valves are closed.
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Old 06-21-2014, 02:15 PM   #3
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I thought I had checked all that, but it's always possible. I walked away from it to reset and worked on something else for a while. I'll go back and trace everything front to back in a bit.

As a double check, is it correct to assume that if I connect to the 'city water' and have no leaks anywhere, that the system is closed (from pump back flow valve on)?
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:22 PM   #4
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Found the culprit! When I took the screen off the dead pump, I must have lost a gasket that goes in the female (outflow) connector. When I removed the screen and connected the line from the tank directly.... No air sucking, no sputtering and the pump shuts off as coon as I close an open faucet.

Now I just have to make another 50-60 mile round trip for a gasket. :-/
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:33 AM   #5
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Still Pump and now Water Heater problems.

Okay... so the little washer (CW gave me one for free... I think they felt sorry for me having made the 60 mile R/T 3 times that day).

It didn't work. Sucks air with the screen on and runs perfectly if I connect up without it.

BUT.... Now I also have another problem. The Atwood water heater isn't heating water. Neither electric nor gas operation works. Any troubleshooting ideas for this?

Also... the fridge may not be working on shore electric power, either. After an hour with the unit turned on just on electric, an infrared thermometer didn't register a change in temp. Switching to gas, there was significant temp drop after 30 minutes.

I have an appointment to take it to CW to trouble shoot and fix all the above, but would appreciate some ideas on what I can look at in the meantime.

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:22 AM   #6
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Sounds like the pump strainer housing might be cracked due to freezing.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:29 AM   #7
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Water heater... When you try to light it on gas, does it try to light?

Fridge.. If you turn it to electric, does it error or just hum along?
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John LLRV View Post
Water heater... When you try to light it on gas, does it try to light?

Fridge.. If you turn it to electric, does it error or just hum along?
Air sucking pump/strainer.... I'm going to go get a new strainer on my way home tonight and give that a try tomorrow.

Water heater.... does absolutely nothing. BUT....Sitting here at work while this whole thing is festering in the back of my mind, I just realized might have won the "moron of the week" award (or at least a nomination). With the excitement of of the toilet valve leak and the rapid clean up of that spill, can't say with certainty that I re-opened the water heater bypass valves. So.... at first light, I'm going to drive to the storage lot and look. If you hear a loud forehead slap about 7am Eastern time, that would be me.

Fridge... no error, no hum, either. Just no cooling off. I did make sure the unit was good and level before I turned it on. If it turns out that I smack my forehead tonight, I'll bring the trailer back to my home in the morning and when I retest the water heater (after making sure it's full of water), I'll give the fridge more time to cool down on electric (like all day and overnight). I'll put a thermometer inside at the start so I can be more certain.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:53 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Merlinspop View Post
If you hear a loud forehead slap about 7am Eastern time, that would be me.
Been there.. Done that.. Just search the threads here for "awning man"

Just update if the fridge works on electric and not gas. Couple of things you can look at.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:55 AM   #10
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Been there.. Done that.. Just search the threads here for "awning man"

Just update if the fridge works on electric and not gas. Couple of things you can look at.
Update:

Replacement screen solved the air sucking issue. One thing down.

Fridge: got good and cold on gas, but first I tried electric (shore power), and there was no noticeable temp drop in 30 minutes. Am retesting now and will give it at least an hour before checking the thermometer I put in there.

Water heater: This May be beyond my ability to troubleshoot and repair. Then the decision starts to become one of paying the shop to troubleshoot and throw parts at it, or replace the whole thing.

The shop manager I talked to said a straight replacement would take 2 hrs or a bit less. The replacement unit just under $900. Two year warrantee on a new one. On the other hand, troubleshooting the existing unit might take as much as 3 hours, then parts and labor for them. If the tank needs to be replaced because the threaded boss is cracked, they essentially have to take the whole thing apart and reassemble. Then test if the water hurt the circuit board. 30 day warrantee on the repair.
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