Any Words of Wisdom?

[Spower]

If any of you saw my post about my slide.....

Sooooo this is what happened!!

The reason this happened is the seal on the motor side somehow got stuck to the caulking on the slide, no idea why this would happen! So the motor side was stuck when I attempted to extend the slide not knowing it was stuck but then it broke free and the slide extended out.

So I think.....it is the motor side that jumped 3+ teeth (118.5 showing now) when it broke free.
I'm now thinking the motor side is the side I need to adjust (push slide in) to match passive side. Does this sound right? More I think about it the more sense it makes to me.
Passive side is showing 115 teeth.

I am going to attempt this on Wednesday. There is actually an access door to the motor underneath. Not sure what motor is down there but hope it is easy to disengage the gear. Then I will need to push that side of the slide in about 3 teeth worth. This slide is about 10' and holds the recliners and a table with 4 chairs.
Here is where I need your wisdom. Has anybody done this? Will I be able to push the slide in myself?

Thanks all! Oh, this is a through the frame slide, 2 rails with teeth on the bottom. It is NOT a in the wall schwintek!

[Spower]

[Spower]

So guess I am on my own on this.....I found the gear, had to cut underbelly. I can loosen bolts but gear is tight to the rail. So I will attempt to raise the rail some to get weight off the gear. Fingers crossed this works. Then hope I can lower it (without the gear engaged) to move the slide. I also hope I don't have to remove the side bar the arrow is pointing to.
IF anybody has done this please let me know!!

Thanks!

[branden.peterson]

If it were me, I'd disengage the driveshaft from the drive side, and spin the driveshaft whichever way it needs to go to match up. Should be easier than trying to push it in or out manually.

[Spower]

Originally Posted by branden.peterson

If it were me, I'd disengage the driveshaft from the drive side, and spin the driveshaft whichever way it needs to go to match up. Should be easier than trying to push it in or out manually.

Is the drive shaft in the picture? How will that get the teeth to match up?? The side in the picture is the drive side I believe. It's the side with the motor.

[branden.peterson]

Originally Posted by Spower

Is the drive shaft in the picture? How will that get the teeth to match up?? The side in the picture is the drive side I believe. It's the side with the motor.

It's the square tube that runs from that gear pack to the other gear pack. If you disconnect, then spin the driveshaft, it'll move the side that is still connected in or out, basically matching up the teeth count without trying to lift the slide, and manually match it up.

[Spower]

Originally Posted by branden.peterson

It's the square tube that runs from that gear pack to the other gear pack. If you disconnect, then spin the driveshaft, it'll move the side that is still connected in or out, basically matching up the teeth count without trying to lift the slide, and manually match it up.

Oh I see.....then I would need to find the gear pack on the other side then (it is in the enclosed underbelly) because I believe the side in the picture is the side I need to adjust.
The slide is 10' with recliners and table/4 chairs. Would I be able to turn the drive shaft to move the one side?
Also, does drive shaft have enough play in it that when you unscrew one side it will move off the shaft of the gear pack?

[branden.peterson]

Originally Posted by Spower

Oh I see.....then I would need to find the gear pack on the other side then (it is in the enclosed underbelly) because I believe the side in the picture is the side I need to adjust.

The slide is 10' with recliners and table/4 chairs. Would I be able to turn the drive shaft to move the one side?

Also, does drive shaft have enough play in it that when you unscrew one side it will move off the shaft of the gear pack?

That makes it a bit harder that it's on the inside of the frame. But yeah, you just turn the drive shaft with a wrench or something, and it'll move the side that's still connected in or out. I just say to adjust the driven side so you don't need to disengage the electric motor. It could be different than the fifth wheels that I've owned, but when I had to adjust something, I didn't need to remove the driveshaft completely from one side, just had to pull the bolt that was acting as a shear pin, then it would just spin on the gear pack shaft. It really shouldn't matter what side you adjust since there are no sensors that tell it to stop like the schwintek system, it just goes until the clutch on the drive motor slips. I would just spin the drive shaft whichever way it needs to go until the teeth count matches up, then line up the bolt hole then put the shear bolt back in.

All my experience is with the hydraulic thru frame slide though, so there may be a better way of doing this.

[Spower]

Originally Posted by branden.peterson

That makes it a bit harder that it's on the inside of the frame. But yeah, you just turn the drive shaft with a wrench or something, and it'll move the side that's still connected in or out. I just say to adjust the driven side so you don't need to disengage the electric motor. It could be different than the fifth wheels that I've owned, but when I had to adjust something, I didn't need to remove the driveshaft completely from one side, just had to pull the bolt that was acting as a shear pin, then it would just spin on the gear pack shaft. It really shouldn't matter what side you adjust since there are no sensors that tell it to stop like the schwintek system, it just goes until the clutch on the drive motor slips. I would just spin the drive shaft whichever way it needs to go until the teeth count matches up, then line up the bolt hole then put the shear bolt back in.

All my experience is with the hydraulic thru frame slide though, so there may be a better way of doing this.

Ok so this sounds good if it will work for me, but if i adjust the passive side out to match motor side, will it close all the way and not leave a gap inside?
Sure appreciate your help!

[branden.peterson]

Originally Posted by Spower

Ok so this sounds good if it will work for me, but if i adjust the passive side out to match motor side, will it close all the way and not leave a gap inside?

Sure appreciate your help!

Yah, it should keep moving until the clutch starts to slip an makes that banging noise. If it needs a bit of fine tuning to get one side to seal a bit tighter, there are a couple bolts on the end of the slide tubes that can be loosened an manually push that side of the room in or out a bit. You have to be careful though, because if you move it to seal tighter when the slide is out, it'll affect how tight it's sealed when the room is slid in, and vice versa.

[Spower]

Hmm, ok I'll have to think about this if it will work for me. It makes the noise when it goes out but not in. I'll let you know!

[Spower]

Originally Posted by branden.peterson

Yah, it should keep moving until the clutch starts to slip an makes that banging noise. If it needs a bit of fine tuning to get one side to seal a bit tighter, there are a couple bolts on the end of the slide tubes that can be loosened an manually push that side of the room in or out a bit. You have to be careful though, because if you move it to seal tighter when the slide is out, it'll affect how tight it's sealed when the room is slid in, and vice versa. Attachment 83210

I have another idea...I can take the bolt out of the drive shaft on the passive side then move the motor side with the motor i can press switch to move it a little bit. My only worry would be lining up the holes to get the bolt back in.

[branden.peterson]

Originally Posted by Spower

I have another idea...I can take the bolt out of the drive shaft on the passive side then move the motor side with the motor i can press switch to move it a little bit. My only worry would be lining up the holes to get the bolt back in.

Yah, I can't see why that wouldn't work. Good idea. I think you'd would be able to use the manual over ride to line up the bolt hole.

[Spower]

Originally Posted by branden.peterson

Yah, I can't see why that wouldn't work. Good idea. I think you'd would be able to use the manual over ride to line up the bolt hole.

Omg! I didnt even think about the manual override! Thats a great idea! This is why I post for help in the forums. I only need to move the one side about 3 or 4 teeth, I'm hoping that is about one revolution of the drive rod or at least close for the holes to line back up.

Thank you!!

[Spower]

So frustrated!!! All the Lippert videos on how to do what I am trying to do make it all look super easy!!
They undo a bolt and it comes right out! I undid the drive rod bolt but can't get it out of the rod!! I am at my wits end! I can't leave here until this is fixed! There are no mobile mechanics anywhere near here. I don't know anybody here!

This doesn't seem like a very hard thing to do especially if it worked like they say in the videos. I'm at a loss........


At this point, I'm pretty much screwed!!!

[Spower]

So thought I would give an update......
Finally got my slide all "straightened" out! I eventually lifted both inner rails and was able to disengage the gear pack. I could not push the slide in though so got an RV guy to come help. Long story short.....some of the adjusting bolts were loose, so over time, each time I put the slide in and out it was moving out of adjustment a little bit at a time until finally.....way out!

Needless to say, I consider myself now VERY knowledgeable on through frame slides!! So if any of you need help with one let me know.