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Old 11-20-2014, 08:31 AM   #21
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By the way, my furnace sits on the floor next to the hot water heater. The bathroom and bedroom are elevated so those ducts are up higher. The floor ducts for the main cabin, have to be accessed underneath the floor so those vent lines run underneath somewhere that I cannot see. I also have surge protection hardwired in behind my inverter so space is really at a premium around the furnace. Could only be removed one way and that was through the basement wall.
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Old 11-20-2014, 12:08 PM   #22
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My floor in the 338 rets is 2 by 3 stud built and the ductwork is actually built in between the studs wrapped with galvanized sheet metal ... now how the furnace is connected to it is another story lol
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #23
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I also have heater issues with my 314bhds.From the gate I figured for the Eagle Premier id get a better thermostat than a crappy analog one,I've seen cheaper campers come with a descent digital stat.I was away from work and it started to get cold,tried to run the heater and it wouldn't run unless I put thermostat above 75 degrees,i had a digital thermometer in the trailer and it was reading 64 deg,so thermo set a 70 it should have kicked on but wouldn't,i do understand that these thermos are +/-5 to 6 deg off but that's sorry in my eyes,once it did start to run it would run for a few minutes then flame would shut off and fan would stay on,then after a few minutes the flame would kick back on and run then shut off again,the entire time it does this it starts to blow cold air as the heater is cooled down.I replaced thermo with a direct digital replacement hoping that would fix my issue,still had same issues and noticed now that when flame shut off would take longer at times to restart and blew cold air out which made furnace try to run longer to get selected temperature,it also would take 3 times to start sometimes,according to atwood's manual it should have locked out but it didn't and that's another issue.I had a authorized mobile repair man per Jayco since I called them and complained that I was away and couldn't get to dealer come out and look,he did find the white ground cable was loose on the unit,but he also said that it's possible when they insulated underbelly someone jammed insulation against the flimsy ducts and it's restricting flow and it's causing the heater to overtemp and that's why flame is shutting off during operation cause heat build up and not enough air flow.My trailer is set up with heater on the bottom and hot water heater on top of that separated by a shelf then a closet on top.I also cant read what model I have or see what the leds are doing because I cant get to control panel. Sorry for the long story but I feel the original posters anger because this has caused me many a headaches and money,jayco needs to step up their quality control instead of bragging about making a trailer in 8 hours,other than my heater I do love my trailer...
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:14 AM   #24
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Another week passes by and another week of me calling the dealer ship and them not remembering who I am or what the problem is. This is nuts! Nearly 4 weeks and still no working furnace!!! I am about to blow a gasket!!!!
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:19 AM   #25
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My heat does work but will shut down on overtemp and restart again,it's better than nothing but still there is a issue with it,once I get the trailer up to temp I use 2 space heaters to keep the trailer warm.I take mine in for service on DEC 10,i plan on taking them in the trailer and seeing the issue so there is no mis communication as to what it's doing
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:21 AM   #26
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In the almost 3 years since I've had my Eagle, I've never once turned on the furnace. After reading this thread, I'm thinking maybe I should try it sometime. It's located behind a large wooded "vent" under the tv and looks as if it could be removed fairly easily. I've had the vent off plenty of times because my black tank flush line runs through there and I check it for leaks quite often.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by 314BHDS View Post
My heat does work but will shut down on overtemp and restart again,it's better than nothing but still there is a issue with it,once I get the trailer up to temp I use 2 space heaters to keep the trailer warm.I take mine in for service on DEC 10,i plan on taking them in the trailer and seeing the issue so there is no mis communication as to what it's doing
If the flame shuts off but the fan still runs and the it automatically relights. You certainly have a problem and its most likely the same one I am having.. It's called "limiting" and its a temp sensor that causes it when the unit overheats. You should not use the furnace in this condition. Everytime it overheats you run the risk of cracking the heat exchanger. Which will cause carbon monoxide to enter your breathing air. Not to mention its a fire hazard. Defiantly make sure you show them the problem, and test it in front of them before you take it back home. Hope it works out!
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:51 PM   #28
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well i have mine in for warranty and told them to fire my furnace and check to see if it is working properly ... don't camp much when its cold but want to make sure its right if I do need it
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:21 PM   #29
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In short I will explain how the electronic operated Atwood furnace works.

The thermostat (TH) turned up and switch on the TH in ON position calls for heat; which in turn tells the furnace to fire up (high limit ON)
The fan will start and blows cold air. The same fan is hooked also to the combustion fan which in turn clears the burning chamber from any gasses out through the flu pipe (is called purge cycle). After approx. 60 sec. when all the electronics switches are in line it will tell the gas valve to open and ignite on the same time.

If there is air in the lines the furnace will trip and you have to reset the TH switch to of and then the above cycle will repeat. In order to speed up this process; after you turn on the LPG at the bottle (do this slow) then light first your stove burners. Turn the burners off after there is a normal flame. After this in most cases the furnace will start after the first try.

When you feel the heat coming from the registers the furnace will trip the high limit switch which turn off the furnace burner. If the TH still calls for heat the furnace burner may come on even if the blower fan is still running.
If you think your furnace is cycling too much you have to adjust your TH (follow the instructions manual from the TH)

The furnace has usual 4 discharge outlets (4 x 12 sq.in = 48 sq.in) Return air is minimum 65 sq.in and recommended is 80 sq.in) (8516 and 8520) Check for pinched discharge hoses this can be a cause of overheating and trip the furnace operation in to fault code. The blower fan has its own cycle switch.

I would recommend to read the manual if you have troubles. If you don’t have one; download one from Atwood.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:33 PM   #30
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There is no adjustment on the thermostat,i know what you are talking about but not all have them.At the most they may have a switch for electric or lp.I have read the manual over a few times,it gives you all the specs for install and ducting specifications.However the way the heater is installed you cannot see control board and see the LED light that is giving you fault code.It seems that a lot of people are having this issue,maybe it could be a simple adjustment inside burner box,or improper duct work.Hopefully I will get mine squared away in 2 weeks when I go to dealer.I checked my duct work the best I can,i have 5 registers,bunk room,bathroom,2 in living room and bedroom,the air flow feels adequate however I pulled covers and did find a few spots pushed up and I found about a sandwich bag worth of insulation in ducting to.The duct work is not the same found in your house it is very flimsy
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