Bearing replacement

[Dans van]

Hi all,

I have a Jayco flamingo Outback 2015.

I have just replaced my bearings for the first time, this was a first time maintenance skill for me.
I removed all of the bearing assembly.
I repacked them and replaced the bearing rings by tapping the new ones in with the old ones. Once the old ones were flush with the drum I tapped the old ones out. I then placed the rear bearing , I replaced the rear seal and tapped it back flush with a piece of hard wood, filled the centre with grease. Put the wheel drum back on.
Replaced the front bearing via the same process and replaced the washer, tightened the castle nut, then backed it off so the brum would run free and put the split pin in.

My question is, how hot should the drum be? As I took it out for a test run and the rims were hot. Not grinding noise, wheels ran free.

I have never done this job before so I have concerns as we are off on a 1500k trip tomorrow.

[JFlightRisk]

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

Did you hand-pack the new bearings before installing them into the hub? Taking the hub temperatures with a contactless laser thermometer, ours run between 110* to 120* depending on ambient temperature, and front or back axle.

[GarlicDude]

Put the ring in your freezer

[Dans van]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

Did you hand-pack the new bearings before installing them into the hub? Taking the hub temperatures with a contactless laser thermometer, ours run between 110* to 120* depending on ambient temperature, and front or back axle.

I packed the bearing with grease by putting the grease in my hand and rubbing it into the bearings. I'll keep an eye on the temperature with my temp gun

Thanks

[JFlightRisk]

That's good. Hubs can feel quite warm right after stopping but shouldn't make you feel like you're going to burn your fingers. Here's how I set up new bearings and races.

Preload the new races by snugging the nut finger tight, then torque to 20 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, or that big of a socket, tightening the nut another 1/4 turn from snug will get you there.

Then spin the wheel 10 or 12 revolutions to seat the races. Loosen the nut a bunch, and finger tighten to snug again. If the nut retainer and cotter pin don't line up with the spindle hole, loosen the nut just until it does line up.

My thermometer is very similar to this one at HF.

https://www.harborfreight.com/121-in..._q=thermometer

[GHen]

I also suggest getting the wheels back up off the ground after the test drive and check that the bearings are still snug. After a heat and cool cycle, the bearing races may seat a little more. Just spin the tires and pull on them top to bottom and side to side. If you have one that feels a little loose compared to the others, tighten the nut one more notch. Others here have explained the procedure well, snug but don’t over tighten.

I had one wheel where I must not have got one of the races completely seated. It’s wasn’t much, but can happen. I always double check after maintenance. Guess that came from my days as a private pilot. I was taught to always have extreme caution after the plane came out of the shop.

[Sundancer330]

Here is a link to a great video put out by Dexter on bearing maintenance. https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI