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Old 03-14-2017, 04:08 PM   #1
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Cabinets need rebuilding

The cabinet above my sofa has issues with the door hinges pulling free, the pocket screws are pulling apart, and the door hold springs are causing more stress on the doors as well.

I am debating whether to rebuild the entire cabinet myself or to pull it down and try to effect some fixes in new and creative ways.

If I rebuild it, I noticed that much of the "wood" is a cheaper grade wood that has a covering over it giving it the "Cherry" finish.

Has anyone rebuilt or repaired their cabinets and had to order any of that covering material?

Thanks,

CarlB
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:22 PM   #2
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It's basically light weight MDF with a paper print sticker, similar to wallpaper. Some of the cabinets actually use a veneer, but most are quite cheep.

If you have the means to custom build your own, they would be much superior to the factory cabinets
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:40 PM   #3
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I have the means. I am just concerned with matching the finish so it doesn't require me to re do all of the "wood" surfaces.
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:59 PM   #4
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I've having similar issues with hinges. My solution thus far is to glue matchsticks in the screw hole and re-attach the hinge when dry. It's not perfect but is working ok for now.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:02 PM   #5
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I have rehung almost every hinge and and door piston in our 2012 5er. We left on an 8000 km trip 2 weeks after we took possession, very little time to get to know the unit and no shakedown cruise. After the first 12 hours of driving there were 2 flip up doors that fell off. By the time we returned I had rehung 6 doors.
Then I checked the rest and re hung about 25 of them.
as stated the face frames are mdf with plastic wood grain as veneer. The screws are over torqued by the installers and gradually loosen up as used or from vibration. My solution is to redrill the holes with a slightly over sized bit and fill with dowel or some form of wood. Shishcabob skewers from the dollar store work well. Put in a dab of glue, fill with the wood, let dry, trim flush with side cutters (prevents trim saw or razor knife marks) re drill and remount.
With the pistons there is a nylon anchor in the holes for the screws on the stiles. Again over torquing loosens them. Fill the screw holes, put in a dab of glue, fill with wood and re install the anchor using the same pva wood glue to keep the anchors in place. They have all remained in place going on 5 years.
I haven't replaced wood but I installed a fireplace removing the center doors and shelving, re trimming with pine I had available and stained as close to the original as possible.
Also had to repair a cabinet door that got caught when opening the slide. Re glued the stile and rail joint resetting the pocket screws. Those pocket screws also are left stripped if over torqued during fabrication. Just refill the screw holes, not the entire pocket and then re screw the joint together. The screws are self drilling so shouldn't have to be re drilled.
As for the slide trim, it is held on by air driven staples. If you encounter them just cut off the staple at the back of the trim, leave the remaining heads in place to prevent marring the finish, re drill and install with pre drilled holes and brad nails, more predictable and accurate than air nails due to the inconsistant hardness/softness of the mdf.
Repair is faster, less expensive and easier than replacement unless you have some major structural issues in my opinion.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:15 PM   #6
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You may want to change the hinges to wrap around style, rather than screwed in from the front. It wraps around the stile (verticle member) and screws into the side of the frame. The strength comes from it wrapping the complete style and hooks on the back side. Yes they use a lite weight MDF for stability, with a vinyl overlay. You can match the wood with stain and then a "toner" which is what they do on the doors. Toner can be purchased from Mohawk finishing products, with outlets in many cities. You stain the wood, than, using the appropriate toner, lightly spray it to even out the colors, and to "tone" it to whatever color you want. Then you would apply your topcoat. They do sell catalyzes finishes in many sheens, so you can match the existing.

Good Luck.
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