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Old 05-16-2012, 05:48 AM   #1
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CO/Propane/ Media center with No Power


I did the normal de-winterising yesterday, and everything went well (almost). I noticed that the floor CO/Propane sensor did not have a green light. I checked the breaker and the fuse and both looked OK. I also tried to turn on the radio (media center), and alas this also did not work (no power it seems). The 12V battery was stored during the winter, and it looks like its OK?. If the CO/Propane sensor dies, does it also affect power to the media center. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Old 05-16-2012, 06:05 AM   #2
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Location: Houston
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If you have a volt ohm meter (VOM), check the voltage between the positive and negative poles on your battery. It sounds to me like you aren't seeing 12V, which may be your battery is drained completely.

Did you pull the fuse or disconnect the battery via a switch when you stored it? You need to do this if you don't have any means to trickle charge it while in storage. Things like the radio, CO/propane detector, etc. put a parasitic load on your battery.

Mike, Sue, Sissy and Little Man

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Old 05-16-2012, 06:57 AM   #3
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Location: King George
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Everytime i see someone mention the battery just installed I always bring up how easy it is to get the battery installed backwards.

The thing to always do when installing a battery is always notice the battery case stamped "NEG" or "-" terminal and make sure this is the BATTERY CABLE that goes to the trailer frame ground connection which is near the battery location.

If you install the battery cable in REVERSE than you most often blow three fuses. Two will be in the Power Distribution Center and are usually off to themself and marked "REV POLARITY" or somethng like that. The other fuse will be an "IN-LINE" very close to the battery location sometimes under the trailer frame.

No HARM done except some blown fuses between the Battery connection and the Power Distribution Center connection.

It is very easy to reverse the battery connections so always keep this planted in the back of your mind everytime you touch the battery cables.

The same thing will also happen if you spark the battery cables when being installed touching the wrong terminals.

Alot of folks will use one of those cable markers you find at the autoparts stores and identify POSITIVE and NEGATIVE on the battery cable ends as another reminder which battery terminal they go to.

I have a BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH installed in my installation and never remove the batteries. If I need to isolate the battery for some reason when parked I Just switch the battery out of the circuit.

Dont know if this is causing your problem or not but definately needs to be looked at as possible cause.

Having a digital multimeter on hand when working around batteries is a "MUST HAVE" item for the RV Toolbox. They are very inexpensive ($7-$20) from Lowes-Walmart-AMAZON-any number of autoparts stores)

Similar to this:

My Digital Multimeter is a high dollar FLUKE model from my Systems Engineering working days but the inexpensive models from the local stores work just the same. Pick one up... Then you dont have to guess anymore why something isnt working DC Voltage wise. "Hmmm lets see" you are thinking... "yep I am reading 12.6VDC on the battery terminals with the Shore Power cable removed." Then measure the "BATTERY CABLES" connections at the Power Distribution Center terminals. You say "Hmmmm nothing here." Then you say to yourself "I must have a blown fuse somewhere or a bad battery terminal connection or my battery disconnect switch is open"... Now you can go look somewhere instead of just guessing what is wrong.

I wouldnt be too concerned about talking out loud unless the trailer starts answering your comments...
Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA

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Old 05-16-2012, 07:41 PM   #4
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thanks for the suggestions. I took a picture before I disconnected the battery in the fall, to ensure that I connected the polarity correct in the spring. My Jayco uses red (white wire) to the negative.

Are there any fuses between the battery and the converter box that I should be away of?

I was able to open the sliders (I believe they run on the 12V battery, as that was all I had connected to the trailer at the time) so I think the battery may be OK. I will take a volt meter on Friday and see what other information I can find.

Trailer is the Jayco Park Model
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