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Old 08-01-2014, 07:16 PM   #11
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Well, the saga continues... After my last post I left the fridge overnight on 120V to cool down prior to our trip the next morning. At 11 PM, it was only down to 59. I switched it over to propane and hoped for the best. The next morning, it was still bang on 59 (Set to 5, measured with a Fluke meter and remote temperature probe) We're bringing the coolers now! On our way to our first destination I called up the Service Advisor. After delicately expressing my dissatisfaction. I politely suggested that he obtained a new fridge on the double and that I would drop the trailer back off the following Saturday. Oh, and you've got a less than a week to do it, because we're going away again the week after. Being on speaker phone with the kids in the car, I refrained from using all the juicy expletives that I'd shouted earlier in the day. My wife was impressed with my restraint. So, back to the stealership tomorrow. Wish me luck!!
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:19 PM   #12
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I am really interested to know what happened with the fridge, as we are having issues with ours as well. we are kind of being treated like we don't know what we are talking about from the service center. Very frustrating!
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Old 09-30-2014, 03:58 PM   #13
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Proper fix for fridge in 184BH

Sorry for the late posting; I just registered, and came across this looking for something else.
The root cause of poor fridge performance and a hot countertop in the 184BH is that Jayco did not follow Norcold's installation instructions. In my 2013, I noted the following:
- too much clearance on each side, on top, and at back (the cabinet is oversize)
- poor fitting baffle on top of fridge, with gaps on each side
With all this free space around the fridge, the unit is actually being blanketed by hot air on each side and on top (which is the cause of the hot counter AND a hot fridge). Also, the large space at the back reduces the "chimney effect" required to properly exhaust hot air from the heat rejection coils.

Solution: Get rid of the gaps. I did this by lining the cabinet with Styrofoam SM rigid insulation, then covering this with 1/8" birch plywood. Some carefully placed 3/4"x3/4" nailing strips around the edges helped with fastening the plywood. All joints were caulked with fire-stop caulking (this is important; Styrofoam is toxic if it burns). The finishing touch was a new, tight-fitting baffle at the top.
The needed reference dimensions are in the Installation Instructions supplied with the N302 fridge (or download from the Norcold website). The tighter the fit on the sides and top, the better.
You do need to remove the fridge to do this. Remember to shut off the propane, and disconnect the hose. It will take a while to purge the air out of the line after re-installation.

I have attached before and after pictures of the cabinet interior.

My countertop is no longer hot, and the fridge performance is better.
Attached Thumbnails
fridge cab before.jpg   fridge cab after.jpg  
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:13 PM   #14
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Curmugeon,

Welcome to JOF

Appreciate your post and pics, very informative addition to the thread.

Bob
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Old 03-12-2015, 07:01 PM   #15
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Pardon my lack of etiquette, Ladies and Gentleman! As an update, we just returned from our first trip of the year and I'm happy to report that the fridge held temps without issue.

I highly recommend using a fridge fan of some sort. I used a Valterra one and was amazed at how much faster the fridge comes down to temp. I also picked up an Acu-Rite wireless fridge/freezer thermometer with alarm. I was able to keep tabs on the goings-on with the Min/Max display.

Thanks to Curmugeon for his detailed reply. I'll be checking my cabinet tolerances just to make sure thats' up to snuff as well.
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