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09-20-2018, 05:54 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wheatfield
Posts: 1,088
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Dicor Sealant?
I have to seal a small spot around the water fill fitting on the side of the trailer, plus another small section on an edge molding on the siding of the trailer. None are roof related.
I hate to buy a full tube of dicor, when all I need is an ounce or so. I could buy a 3 oz tube of "silicone" and then save the tube for next year. But I understand that once I open the dicor it must be used in full right away.
So, what should I use?
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09-20-2018, 05:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 15,894
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Don't use silicone, it doesn't last. You need OSI QUAD SEAL, not sure if it comes in small tubes, but I've had it last a couple months if sealed well.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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09-20-2018, 06:00 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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For those fittings and trim areas Jayco uses OSI QUAD Sealant which you can guy at Home Depot and Menards in various colors, and much cheaper than Dicor which you only need to use on the roof. Dont ever use silicone sealants because when you need to go over that spot again nothing will stick to it not even silicone
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09-20-2018, 06:03 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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Well why not put a cap on the cartridge when you're done, then take a good quality electrical tape and seal the cap for extra protection. After 3 years it is still usable.
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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09-20-2018, 06:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wheatfield
Posts: 1,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALJO
Well why not put a cap on the cartridge when you're done, then take a good quality electrical tape and seal the cap for extra protection. After 3 years it is still usable.
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Well that was going to be another question. Its just that even silicone will spoil in the tube after 3 years, no matter how well i try to seal it.
They don't come with a "cap" - not sure where to get one. I'll see if one of my grease cartridge caps fit...
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09-20-2018, 06:33 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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I have had good luck using a large wire nut, start the nut pump a little sealant to seal the nut and screw it tight.
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09-20-2018, 06:41 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wheatfield
Posts: 1,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer330
For those fittings and trim areas Jayco uses OSI QUAD Sealant which you can guy at Home Depot and Menards in various colors, and much cheaper than Dicor which you only need to use on the roof. Dont ever use silicone sealants because when you need to go over that spot again nothing will stick to it not even silicone
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All I could find were 10 oz cartridges, and they cost more than Dicor.
All I want is a little 3 oz tube.
So, what does Jayco use for sidewall fittings?
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09-20-2018, 06:47 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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Jayco uses OSI QUAD everywhere but the roof. Not sure where you got prices but the OSI is about $5.50 at Depot and Dicor is over $10 per tube
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09-20-2018, 07:00 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wheatfield
Posts: 1,088
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I just did a quicky EBay search and it came up $13.
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09-20-2018, 07:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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More expensive partly due to shipping, all the big box stores carry it for about $5.50
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09-21-2018, 05:25 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Chicago
Posts: 550
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Can you install butyl tape?
__________________
2019 F250, gas, 4.30
2017 29RKS
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09-21-2018, 05:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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Just remove the water inlet assembly and put butyl tape around it, that's the proper way to do it.
You spend an far amount of $$$ in your RV and squabble over a $10. maintenance investment?
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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09-21-2018, 06:18 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wheatfield
Posts: 1,088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALJO
Just remove the water inlet assembly and put butyl tape around it, that's the proper way to do it.
You spend an far amount of $$$ in your RV and squabble over a $10. maintenance investment?
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First of all, I don't care if it costs $100. My issue is that I don't want to buy a 10 oz tube and throw it away after only using 1/2 oz.
Secondly, my QQ was more directed toward what is the BEST way to get the job done.
Finally, based on my past experience I don't think butyl tape is the proper fix. What it needs is a minor caulk job over a very slightly open seam. So, what is the best caulk material to fix it?
If tape is "proper", please explain.
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09-21-2018, 07:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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On smooth walls you can use 1/16 or 1/8 Butyl tape.
Aluminum siding use plus 1/16 or 1/8 butyl tape above the depth of the curve. In general 1/4 Butyl tape is sufficient.
The RV industry uses putty tape which will dry out in time. The automotive industry uses butyl for a lasting job.
Good luck with your repair.
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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09-21-2018, 07:13 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Way down here........FL
Posts: 2,097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsmjim
Well that was going to be another question. Its just that even silicone will spoil in the tube after 3 years, no matter how well i try to seal it.
They don't come with a "cap" - not sure where to get one. I'll see if one of my grease cartridge caps fit...
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After using caulk use masking tape to seal it. Put a bunch of layers on the end and it will last quite a while.
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09-21-2018, 10:57 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsmjim
Well that was going to be another question. Its just that even silicone will spoil in the tube after 3 years, no matter how well i try to seal it.
They don't come with a "cap" - not sure where to get one. I'll see if one of my grease cartridge caps fit...
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You can pick up one of these at most any hardware store for about $2:
Caulk Plug
I have used one for several years on tubes of Dicor No-Sag and never had any issues with it drying out before I got around to using it up.
__________________
TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension, 3216 payload
TV: 2014 RAM 1500 Big Horn CC (Traded in)
TT: 2015 Jay Flight SLX 195RB Baja Edition, Andersen No-Sway (Traded in)
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09-21-2018, 11:04 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsmjim
First of all, I don't care if it costs $100. My issue is that I don't want to buy a 10 oz tube and throw it away after only using 1/2 oz.
Secondly, my QQ was more directed toward what is the BEST way to get the job done.
Finally, based on my past experience I don't think butyl tape is the proper fix. What it needs is a minor caulk job over a very slightly open seam. So, what is the best caulk material to fix it?
If tape is "proper", please explain.
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I've had good luck filling these types of gaps by masking it off with blue painters tape and then forcing it full of Dicor No-Sag. The Dicor will skin over within a few minutes allowing you to remove the tape and smooth things over without it sticking to your fingers.
__________________
TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension, 3216 payload
TV: 2014 RAM 1500 Big Horn CC (Traded in)
TT: 2015 Jay Flight SLX 195RB Baja Edition, Andersen No-Sway (Traded in)
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09-22-2018, 04:46 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Mount Joy PA
Posts: 80
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What's the difference
After refitting a window using the butyl tape, then a week later using plumbers putty while installing a new sink faucet and drain, they seem like the same stuff. Can they be interchanged? You can get a small tub of plumbers putty and roll it into whatever shape you need, it's made to make a seal between different materials and gaps, but is it weatherproof for outdoors? Sorry to change the original question
Also a quick update, we have an agreement to buy a used Jayco 365BHS. Now we'll be back in the Jayco family. Just need to sell our Pilgrim camper.
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Ron, Karen, Bekah, Koen & Daniel Grose + Jenna(dog)
Mount Joy Pa
2011 Jayco 365 BHS
2008 Pilgrim 328 BHSS(sold)
1995 Jayco 264 BH(sold)
2012 Ram CC Cummins 4x4 SRW w/4.10 gears using Andersen Ultimate hitch
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09-22-2018, 10:21 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mapleton
Posts: 4,336
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I recently got a hint from Rick's RV. When using Quad Seal or Dicor have WD40 or similar handy plus paper towels.
Squirt some Quad Seal on and with a finger moistened with WD 40 smooth it. Wipe finger and repeat. Small areas a few inches long at most. I cheated and had spouse wipe finger and spray with WD to speed things up.
Really works!
Will try the cap idea. I cap silicone and regular caulk with a finger off a rubber glove which preserves it for months. But did not work for QuadSeal.
__________________
2017 SLX 195RB
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit L 5.7L V8
Andersen WDH hitch, Renogy 100 AH Lithium &
200 Watts solar panels from Renogy
Prev. '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, gas 3.6 V6
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09-22-2018, 01:19 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wheatfield
Posts: 1,088
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Thanks to all that replied. I learned a few things. I guess I'm a novice with RVs, but certainly not with home repairs.
The "tape" threw me. I would have called it a "bead". In any event, it sounds like the best course of action. I have done many home furnace upgrades and PVC power line additions and "puddy" kneaded between one's fingers has always worked well, for many years service.
I never saw a caulking tube "cover" before. Looks like a good idea. Up to now I have just sealed the end with electrical tape. I'm sure it does the job, but nevertheless the tubes dry out anyway. I suspect the wide end is where the seal needs to be better. When I replied before about a cover, I was talking about one for that end.
Thanks again to all...
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