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Old 06-25-2015, 11:32 AM   #11
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Mike837go, congratulations on your "pitch perfect" hearing and cat like reflexes on the jack switch. But you've already made the point I was trying to make. In your own words, "The design you describe would require 2 limit switches and 2 relays. Plus build time. Near doubling the price of the jack." If adding 2 limit switches and 2 relays doubles the price of the jack, what does that tell you about the quality of the jack? And that's my point. To save a couple of bucks, Jayco chose to install a jack that, under what any reasonable person would consider normal use, constantly blows fuses instead of turning itself off.

Thank you to all of you that have made constructive suggestions. I will be adding a separate 30a fuse for the jack and, if that continues to blow under normal use, I'll be replacing the fuse with a 30 amp ATC circuit breaker. I'd hate to run the risk of having the food in my refrigerator spoil and the freezer defrost all over the floor as I drive down the road over a $.25 fuse and the fact that my hearing isn't what it used to be.


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Old 06-25-2015, 11:54 AM   #12
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I don't understand why this is such an issue either. My jack came with a big piece of tape on the bottom that says "Do not raise the jack above this point".

And.......I don't. I have never blown a fuse. I don't even bother lifting the pad all the way. I just lift it high enough so that it is level with my WDH bars when hooked up. There is no point in going all the way until the fuse blows. You could even add your own piece of tape or paint if yours didn't come with it.

As far as going down. Put some blocks under the pad. It is much quicker than waiting for the jack to extend all the way to the ground and then replacing the fuse when you reach the bottom end of travel and then raising the jack and installing blocks anyway......
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jlawley View Post
Mike837go, congratulations on your "pitch perfect" hearing and cat like reflexes on the jack switch."

I'm good, But not that good

Also note I claim 7 uses of the jack (3 up and 4 down) and "Yet" on not having blow the fuse.

Thank you to all of you that have made constructive suggestions. I will be adding a separate 30a fuse for the jack and, if that continues to blow under normal use, I'll be replacing the fuse with a 30 amp ATC circuit breaker. I'd hate to run the risk of having the food in my refrigerator spoil and the freezer defrost all over the floor as I drive down the road over a $.25 fuse and the fact that my hearing isn't what it used to be.
You are quite correct that an electromechanical system like these jacks should have a limit switch or clutch (see: slide out drives).

Designing a system that blows a fuse (total catastrophic failure) because we are standing inches from the tailpipe of a running engine while children are running and laughing and the little woman is asking what is taking so long, etc. etc. ad nauseam?

A simple current limiter. Allow up to 30A for unlimited time. At 30A for .25 second it shuts off for 2 seconds. More than adequate and much cheaper than limit switches. And no maintenance for the clutch.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:33 PM   #14
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I don't understand why this is such an issue either. My jack came with a big piece of tape on the bottom that says "Do not raise the jack above this point".

And.......I don't. I have never blown a fuse. I don't even bother lifting the pad all the way. I just lift it high enough so that it is level with my WDH bars when hooked up. There is no point in going all the way until the fuse blows. You could even add your own piece of tape or paint if yours didn't come with it.

As far as going down. Put some blocks under the pad. It is much quicker than waiting for the jack to extend all the way to the ground and then replacing the fuse when you reach the bottom end of travel and then raising the jack and installing blocks anyway......
This is what I do, and I too have never blown that fuse because of the jack. But I also recognize this may not be possible for all situations. And I will second that Jayco needs to re-examine the quality of jack they install. Not only do they blow fuses very easily, but they take on water; mine is probably DOA right now because of water intrusion. They should take all the money they put into the Denver Mattress and put it into a quality jack instead.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:50 PM   #15
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I don't understand why this is such an issue either. My jack came with a big piece of tape on the bottom that says "Do not raise the jack above this point".
......
How do you see the label (line) and hold the switch at the same time?

I've never been that flexible.

Or is it all done with mirrors?
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:11 PM   #16
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How do you see the label (line) and hold the switch at the same time?

I've never been that flexible.

Or is it all done with mirrors?
It's not that hard. I can lean over and mostly see mine. If I want to get a really close look, I can squat down and see it all. And that's while holding the switch.

And trust me, I'm no gymnast!
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:31 PM   #17
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Yes I squat too. Maybe setup a camp chair next to it. It certainly travels slow enough you could probably enjoy a cold one at the same time. All while keeping a finger on the switch!

I also don't go all the way up. I usually stop it when it is level with my WDH bars. That I can see while standing.
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Old 06-25-2015, 03:08 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Subaru297 View Post
I don't understand why this is such an issue either. My jack came with a big piece of tape on the bottom that says "Do not raise the jack above this point".
And.......I don't. I have never blown a fuse. And neither have I.... raising the jack.

I don't even bother lifting the pad all the way. I just lift it high enough so that it is level with my WDH bars when hooked up.
I lift my jack higher than that without blowing a fuse.

There is no point in going all the way until the fuse blows.
Have you heard of anyone that does that intentionally? No one I know of does that.

You could even add your own piece of tape or paint if yours didn't come with it. True. Mine already had it marked. But, if it wasn't, how would anyone have a reasonable idea where to put the mark before the fuse blows?

As far as going down. Put some blocks under the pad. It is much quicker than waiting for the jack to extend all the way to the ground and then replacing the fuse when you reach the bottom end of travel and then raising the jack and installing blocks anyway......
As I usually do, I put a 2x4 under my jack in a storage lot. No problem. One Sunday, I took the trailer for a while and when I returned found that someone had taken my 2x4. Tried it without a 2x4 and blew my first fuse. I made the mistaken assumption there would be a mark in this direction, too. I returned the favor and took someone else's 2x4.

A week or so after that, my next fuse blew at my house... I used the 2x4 but found out it wasn't enough. Now I have the jack marked AND a 4x4.
As they say 'Excrement occurs.' Thankfully, this site had me prepared with a package of fuses. I still have most of them.
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