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Old 04-15-2018, 02:24 PM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Colonial Heights
Posts: 68
Equalizer Auto Levelling Issues over the weekend.

Ok, we manually levelled the 2017 Jayco 29MV after auto just wouldn't do it. Front wheels were coming off the ground, so I got my levelling blocks and fixed that issue and went back to manually get it level.

Come this AM, I did the ritual of un-setting up and got to where I would retract the jacks. Two in the back went up NO PROBLEM. The two in the front moved a bit then nothing. Motor was running, but no movement at the jacks. After opening the manual valve at the main unit, and reclosing, the front left went up. but the guy from the campground that was giving me a hand, over loosened the right front valve at the main unit and broke the hex wrench off in it. That's about a $100 fix now. I ended up having to jack up the right front side enough to relieve pressure on the jack enough to unbolt it from the frame and bungee it against the chassis, to get home.

Now we are home. I can order the replacement valve and coil (I believe they have to be ordered together from what I have researched) but don't know what the problem could be that caused this whole problem to begin with.

I searched everywhere, and all the forum threads, but haven't seen a post about this issue so I throw it out to y'all!

By the way, we bought the RV used, dealer says "As Is" no warranty from what we can figure other than what Ford gives us on the chassis. Jayco will not warrant anything else for us with it being used. I'm OK with that, I made my decision to buy it knowing I'd have to fix most things myself....but never imagined I'd have to fix the auto level this soon into it. (First trip that is)

Anyone got anything relevant to this issue, OH and it's the 4-point Equalizer Auto levelling with Bi-Rot motor....just in case I didn't mention that.
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Old 04-20-2018, 10:49 AM   #2
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No one has ANYTHING? I was sure hoping someone had dealt with something similar...Guess I'm on my own with this one.

Seems the guy who "helped" me at the campground has definitely overwound the setscrew valve way too far in addition to breaking the hex wrench off and is now stripped in the "Open" position.Got the hex wrench piece out of the setscrew, but broke off another torx bit in it trying to reclose the valve ... Got all the other valves free and can open/close as they should, but one of the four is stuck in the open position. I guess I am going to have to buy and swap out a valve in order to get this thing straight. AND HOPE that is all that's wrong...I don't want to have to replace the affected hydraulic support shaft as well

ONE LESSON LEARNED : If you know how, do it yourself, don't rely on someone else who SAYS they know what they are doing to put you in a worse situation. In my case, I could've easily told the guy to just let me open/close the valves. I told him they only turn 1.5 turns....he insisted they turned all the way out. His insistence and CAN DO attitude is costing me a lot of time, and money...and not to mention NO CAMPING until I can get it squared away.
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:42 AM   #3
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UPDATE :

Well, no one had any information to be able to figure this one out, so I wanted to post an update to allow anyone who DOES have this issue in the future, a bit of information to help them out. I was, after alot of back and forth and head scratching and a phone call to Equalizer in Indiana and $100, got the problem fixed!

The system NEVER quite worked as designed from the get go....due to the previous owners (by deduction of events) obviously had a similar problem with the jacks that I did (getting stuck in the "Out" position). There was not only the valve and coil that needed replacing because of the broken hex wrench in it (I tried to remove the hex wrench, but because the guy that "helped" me at the campground OVER-EXTENDING the valve, got it jammed, and I broke off ANOTHER wrench, and torx bit in it). The only fix for it was to replace it.
That fixed the operation of the jack in question. BUT they would then all go down and all go up at the same time in "Valve OPEN" position...if the valves were closed the jacks would not move at all. A call to Equalizer (even though I have no warranty, "Randy" was GREAT and was happy to school me on the whole system) told me there are fuses inside the controller box mounted in the center of the RV, underneath. 5 fuses, all 7.5A...he informed me I had probably 2 fuses in that box blown. Sure enough there was one that was blown. He also informed me that due to these issues like mine, they have found upgrading the fuses to 10A solved the blowing problem. I changed all 5 the fuses to 10A and closed the manual override valves on the pump again. I also had topped off the fluid for the pump.

Took a deep breathe, went to the control pad at the door, and for the (seemingly) 1000th time hit "Auto Level".... IT WORKED!!!!

I "Zeroed" out the system after leveling manually, and tried the "AutoLevel" again....the system worked flawlessly and even quieter than before, as well as quicker....which brings me BACK to the original opening idea of the previous owners having a similar issue. I noticed when looking at the valves at the pump, one of the valves had been in the partially open position since I bought it. Never touched by me or the "Campground Helper". Also in the controller, there were ALREADY TWO 10A fuses replacing the original 7.5A....Which tells me the PO had the jacks stick on them, had to manually override the jacks to get them back p and stowed, took the camper to a repair shop, and they replaced the fuses in the controller (deducting this from a rogue listed visit to a dealership in my "MyCarfax" report that I hadn't ,up til now, figured what the PO had possibly had repaired...I am just assuming at this point thats what it was)...but the valve was never returned to the closed position, which in turn caused (from what the Equalizer Tech explained) the system to overcompensate for the loss of pressure on one valve open, and causing the 7.5A fuse to eventually blow on me.

So in summary, Check the valves, make sure all are CLOSED, and check the fuses in YOUR controller....the box under the RV that has two wire harnesses hooked into it. Pull it down, and open the box by taking 6 screws out, look inside and Voila! ...five 7.5A fuses that can be replaced that you may have never known were there.

Enjoy the fruits of my hard knocks education!
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:50 AM   #4
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Thanks for following up with your solution.
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