Help me repair my slide....

Flapper · 10-14-2016, 09:40 AM

So, on the last day of the mega trip (5200 miles, 29 days) my DW was running the main slide out on our 2012 26.5RLS 5th. Due to the loud crunching noise, she stopped. The lower entertainment center door had popped open, and as the slide went out, the wide trim caught on it. The door is kind of a mess, but I think with careful application of wood glue and clamps, I can make it live again. Would hate to even find out how much a new one from Jayco might cost, if it is even available anymore....

But the challenge is the wide trim around the slide. It appears a 3" wood screw got ripped out, and as shown is now preventing the trim from going back into place. With some prying, I'm sure I can get things sortof back together. But I would really like to do it right by removing the trim, filling the screw hole, redrill and reassemble everything. But in initial looking at it, I can't figure out how the "pretty" dress trim is fastened to the backer 3/4" ply, so I can remove it get at the screw head.
Has anyone done this kind of work, and have advice?
It is scheduled to go back to the dealer next week for storage, so I could always have them fix...but this doesn't seem to be worth the big $$ that they will charge, if I can figure out how to take things apart without making it worse.

(Sorry for the sideways photos - they just don't want to upload in correct orientation!)

abarkl · 10-14-2016, 09:55 AM

Ours has had the same issues without owner "intervention" and is only attached with small finishing nails.
We plan to take it down some day and use some construction adhesive in addition to finishing nails to better keep it in place.

BuddyRay · 10-14-2016, 09:58 AM

Wow. You just gave me something else to check before putting the slide out.
If the glue doesn't work I'd bet you could get that door from Jayco. I have a 2016 26.5RLS and I think my cabinet is identical.
As to the trim, I don't know but I would be amazed if it wasn't stapled.

Buddy Ray - Atlanta
---------------
Jayco Eagle HT 26.5RLS
Ford F150 Lariat, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost
Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
Reese Sidewinder and Reese Titan 16k hitch

**WVDusty** · 10-14-2016, 10:38 AM

Do you have a oscillating tool? If so I would just use it to cut the screw off so that the trim will go back into place then use a couple off trim nails to reattach it.

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wags999 · 10-14-2016, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVDusty

Do you have a oscillating tool? If so I would just use it to cut the screw off so that the trim will go back into place then use a couple off trim nails to reattach it.

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That's a good easy solution. It appears the plywood was screwed and the trim was stapled. You may be able to pry the trim off the plywood (never seen them use glue on anything) and then rescrew the plywood, or, do as Dusty suggested. Using a trim head screw.

Good Luck.
PS we put a rubber band around those doors to stop them from coming open.

Camper_bob · 10-14-2016, 12:26 PM

I've had a similar issue with my DW and the slide. Ours was because of a water bottle and a bunk ladder, but I digress.

Anyway, our trim is attached using small finishing nails. You should be able to CAREFULLY pry the trim piece off the primary ply wood piece to gain access to that screw. It could also be attached with staples. On mine, if you look carefully, you can see where they hid the nail heads with a tiny dab of putty. Start at the bottom outside edge (so you won't see any potential damage later) and give it a try.

If not, then I agree with cutting the screw off from the back and putting in a new one. In fact, that might be a better option to begin with if you're not comfortable dealing with the finishing nails.

I agree with Wags999, I highly doubt there is glue under that trim piece, but I guess anything is possible...

Flapper · 10-14-2016, 04:22 PM

Thanks all - I'll start poking at it tomorrow to see if I can easily (ie - non-destructively) get things apart. It's pretty obvious that the wood screw was ripped out of its hole, and has fallen a bit, keeping everything from going back together. I have all sorts of hand/power/air tools, so cutting and brad nailing won't be much of an issue, if it comes to that.

On the door - while it probably would have crushed anyway, it is pretty obvious that the original joints of the framing, while tongue and grooved, had significant gaps with nothing filling them, contributing to structural weakness.

I could go on a rant about shoddy construction...but then again, having things come apart at the original seams makes for an easier repair than something that was solidly put together where the wood itself would fail....

**norty1** · 10-14-2016, 05:51 PM

I knocked mine off once and it did have a few places where a dab of glue was placed every couple of feet. It came right off with no damage and I hope that is why is was only attached with staples. Otherwise it would gave done some harder to repair damage.

I was able to replace it with some finishing nails and hole putty.

DMRGMC · 10-14-2016, 07:08 PM

We had the same problem, the door opened as a result of something inside pushing on the door. It was the top door only that the slide caught by the handle that indented the stile and the bottom rail cracked at the joint with the stile. It pushed off the slide trim similiar to yours. I repaired both and swapped the top with the bottom door so that the repair would be less noticable. The slide trim is mdf wrapped with vinyl and held in place with u shaped staples about 1" long that are harder to remove causing the vinyl wrap to rip, drawing more attention to the repair. However I didn't have to deal with any screws or underlying plywood. My approach would be to try and gingerly remove the trim with a flat bar. If you get the trim off leave the staples in just cutting off the ends, trying to remove them will cause damage to the wrap. If that doesn't go well, I'd cut off the screw and re fasten the trim with a long small headed trim screw in between the grooves of the trim and cover them with a furniture putty crayon close to the same colour. The screws would do more to help resecure the plywood back in place. You might need more trim screws to properly compensate for the larger screw you would cut off. Pre drill any holes in the vinyl wrapped trim to prevent the vinyl from lifting and any new trim nails from bending in the mdf.
Our trim also had a decorative block on the bottom at the floor that was removed by a the couch moving forward right after purchase ( now its secured to the floor), the block could not be repaired, it cost close to $20.

jasum · 10-15-2016, 04:27 AM

You can get trim screws at home depot or Lowe's. They have a small head on them. That might be better than glue.......in case you ever need to remove it again. Ok my old fifth wheel, it was just short finish nails used.....

Flapper · 10-17-2016, 06:27 AM

The follow up -
The decorative trim ended up being easy to pry off. It was held on by short staples. It inserts into the decorative plinth block at the top, and just slides down and out, once you've pried the rest of it loose. No staples pulled through, so the surface looks perfect.
Beneath that are two layers of 3/8 ply, held on to the edge of the slide by 3 3" #10 wood screws. I was unable to remove these backers without at least taking the plinth block off, and perhaps even the top horizontal trim, which was turning the project into something bigger than I wanted to deal with. So I didn't get behind to fill the stripped screw holes. I tried first just tightening the original screws but judging by how freely they spun, their holes had already been partially stripped at the factory, and my accident just made it worse. I upgraded to #12 screws, with glue on the threads. It was then an easy matter to use my brad nailer to remount the surface trim (after clipping off the legs of the original staples, of course).
There is a 1" edge trim, and the strip closest to the entertainment center had also been pulled loose a bit by the collision with the door. Most of it was still firmly held by staples. No way to get the nailer in a position (or to nail by hand), so I just squirted in some wood glue, and then clamped it down overnight.
Not a super sturdy repair, but it should last as long as everything else in normal use, and if I ever have the same accident again, it will fail in same way!

The door is proving to be more of a challenge to piece back together well - I've relegated it to be a winter project since the 5th goes into storage today. I'll ask the dealer for a quote for a replacement, just in case, but I know I won't like the answer!

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