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Old 12-06-2017, 10:18 AM   #1
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Hydroflame furnace repair

For those willing to make their own repairs, I can offer this information on my own furnace repair.

My furnace failed to ignite so I looked through the furnace documentation provided by Jayco. The elementary information provided there was enough to troubleshoot the furnace. Removing the four screws on the outside of the furnace provided access to the circuit board and the fault code LED. The fault code displayed was a single flash which indicated a sail switch fault. A meter proved the switch itself to be defective. The sail switch is easy to identify and remove. I think the hardest part was identifying and finding the correct sail switch for the furnace model but I did find one on Amazon that looks like it will work.

All in all it only took an hour to TS and order the repair part so for those willing to delve into these types of problems, it beats the heck outta going to a repair shop.
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:03 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4 View Post
For those willing to make their own repairs, I can offer this information on my own furnace repair.



My furnace failed to ignite so I looked through the furnace documentation provided by Jayco. The elementary information provided there was enough to troubleshoot the furnace. Removing the four screws on the outside of the furnace provided access to the circuit board and the fault code LED. The fault code displayed was a single flash which indicated a sail switch fault. A meter proved the switch itself to be defective. The sail switch is easy to identify and remove. I think the hardest part was identifying and finding the correct sail switch for the furnace model but I did find one on Amazon that looks like it will work.



All in all it only took an hour to TS and order the repair part so for those willing to delve into these types of problems, it beats the heck outta going to a repair shop.


Thanks much!

Iíve got a question regarding the hydra flame. When you open the cabinet, does the electrics slide out? Iím having either the LP alarm OR the CO alarm trigger at the coldest part of the night.

So, firstly Iím not sure if itís an LP leak or a carbon monoxide leak.... because the alarm just sounds. Thereís no indicator what the alarm is detecting.

Could the hydraflame be allowing unburnt fuel past the burner? Or could the heat exchanger be letting CO pass?

My next call obviously is to a certified mobile repair company, Iím just curious.

I have no intention on trying to solve this on my own.


Craig Bailey
New Hampshire
Jayflight 32 BHDS
Chevy 2500HD CC
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2015 Jayflight 32BHDS
2007 Chevy 2500HD Crew 4x4 Z71
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:26 AM   #3
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The circuit board is accessible only from the outside. You can access the board by removing the 4 corner screws and prying the inner piece (defined by the gap) off. The furnace is not on a slide. If you remove the cover from inside the rig, there's not much to see other than the hoses and some wiring.

If your detector is a combination detector (LP and CO) and it doesn't indicate what's wrong, that's just not right. There's gotta be a way to determine which alarm is active. My current and previous rigs had separate detectors.

Yes, CO can leak from an operational furnace if the heat exchanger is defective. CO would be created by burning LP. As for raw LP getting into the rig from the furnace, I doubt it. If the is raw LP is getting in, it's more likely to be from a leaky fitting or a valve on your stove or oven.
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:36 AM   #4
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As a continuation of the original post, I had a heck of a time adjusting the sail switch. The switch arm had to be bent just so to get it to work. Too much bend and the arm hit the fan, too little bend and switch wouldn't trip. I currently have it set so it rests on the fan when it stops. If I get ambitious, I'll go do some more bending. Too cold out there now to go mess with it.
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