I think I have a hole...

[JKyle]

I went for my end of summer 'roof crawl and inspection' today. It was warm and bright/sunny.

Overall my self leveling stuff looks really good all around the roof protrusions. I took notice where it looks to be a staple migrating out. I think it's caused a pin hole. Tough to tell, but it looks pretty dark, inverted, like the membrane is broken.

I'm still under warranty. I still have one (short) trip before the end of my season. Touch it up and move on? Or make waves about it? Either scenario feels equally plausible for me. If I do seek to have it looked at for potential warranty, what happens? Do they inspect, determine, then temp patch until repair (if deemed a pin hole r/t staple)? Would they keep my camper to replace roof membrane, or temp patch until warranty process goes through? How does this usually work?

You can't glean much from the photo, but it is definitely a puck (or pinhole) with what looks like dirt embedded, since it is dark colored with the staple directly under. I didn't want to mess with it too much. I need 'macro' camera mode.

[TxLoser]

I’d document it with jayco over the phone, then ask them if you can patch it in the meantime with Eternabond just to keep moisture out till the dealership can put eyes on it. Either way I think you’ll be good.

I just picked my trailer up today from getting a new roof, and that’s what I did with them. Mine was a different scenario of glue letting lose, followed by ballooning which caused it to cut itself on the front AC sheet metal. Different manufacture too, but I’d assume Jayco customer service would work the same way.

[craigav]

I suspect even if warranty covers this that all they would do is pull the staple and drop some dicor on it.

I would make that repair myself instead of taking it in, and use eternabond tape instead of dicor. ~CA

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by craigav

I suspect even if warranty covers this that all they would do is pull the staple and drop some dicor on it.

I would make that repair myself instead of taking it in, and use eternabond tape instead of dicor. ~CA

That's what I wondered. Would warranty simply repair a break in the membrane or are they expected to replace a roof membrane for such a hole?

I was gonna go just gonna hit it with the decor or Eternabond, considering I am not 100% certain it is a hole.

Luckily, here in my part of CT, we are having beautiful weather without rain....at least for a few more days.

I just think about 365 days from now, if / when the staples start backing out, I'm going to handle it in exactly the same way, so why not start now.

[craigav]

I am not sure the exact wording of the warranty and haven't looked at one in a long time. However, I suspect they would only replace a roof (or anything else) that could not be repaired.

On my Jayco (which is old now) I had a similar issue come up about 7 years ago and a nail\staple came up and protruded through the roof material. The hole was like yours in size or about 1/4" diameter. I chose eternabond as I had used a combination of dicor and eternabond everywhere needed on the roof prior to almost exclusively using eternabond for the roof now. I made a 2"x2" square for the repair, cleaned the area well, and applied the eternabond with a roller. Now when I check the roof as I do a couple of times a year I simply take a quick look and see if the corners of the eternabond repair have come up which they never have. With Dicor, I have a hard time seeing and knowing if there are hairline cracks in it and if the ones I see are leaking, or is it adhered well or not and because of those concerns I ended up using more dicor than necessary over time. So I have been removing the dicor and I think it is all almost gone now (some under eternabond in some cases) and I am exclusively using eternabond as it is much easier to inspect and seems to be longer lasting. ~CA

[gunafulltime]

We've hade several of these protrusions on both of our Jayco TTs. We made Eternabond patches and sealed the edges with Eternabond caulk. Before applying the patch, we cleaned the surface with Eternabond cleaner and applied Eternabond primer. I would say that, between the two trailers, we've used this method on a least 6 "inline" fastener/staple protrusions.

For the dislodged or missing roof perimeter screws, we used screws and sealed the entire roof perimeter with Eternabond tape and Eternabond caulk (on the tape edges). Each Eternabond application worked (and is working on our current TT) well. The damage was stopped, and we've had no readily-observable water penetration.

[hoppers4]

Eternabond is the best answer. Take it in for warranty work and you may not get your rig back for some time. This is a half hour prep and seal job with eternabond. Great stuff!

[norty1]

I would do that one myself with Eternabond.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by norty1

I would do that one myself with Eternabond.

Yup. That's what I'm going to do...today. Get up there, clean the roof, prep with alcohol, then lay down a nice patch of Eternabond.

[hoppers4]

Here's an AI warning about alcohol use on TPO roofing.

"Yes, isopropyl alcohol can be used to clean a Thermoplastic Polyolefin (TPO) roof, but it should be at least 50% alcohol and wiped off with a clean cotton rag before it evaporates."

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by JKyle

Yup. That's what I'm going to do...today. Get up there, clean the roof, prep with alcohol, then lay down a nice patch of Eternabond.

I scrubbed my roof with Dawn dish soap and water. Good rinse and dry. Applied an Eternabond patch. Do NOT stretch the Eternabond or it will self release in a few days.

[craigav]

I have used Dawn as well although I didn't stop there and after the area is clean with Dawn I have used several different things (just what I had handy in my shop) such as alcohol, acetone, mineral spirits, or brake clean spray. All seems to work well and my goal was to remove any remnants of the soap. Also, perhaps important as solvents are not great for a roof top, I used those products sparingly with a shop towel and I didn't leave any of that on the roof for any extended period of time, more like a quick final wipe down.

With that, I have eternabond tape that I did a long time ago ~7 or more years that is still very well adhered to the roof. ~CA

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by craigav

I have used several different things (just what I had handy in my shop) such as alcohol, acetone, mineral spirits, or brake clean spray.

Several of which are mentioned by ETERNABOND. I always wiped the surface with acetone and as you said sparingly.

Clean the surface: Use a non-residue cleaner like EternaClean, acetone, lacquer thinner, or denatured alcohol

[Route 66 Traveler]

Also, when applying Eternabond it needs to be pressed down tight to activate the adhesive. This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[craigav]

Originally Posted by route 66 traveler

also, when applying eternabond it needs to be pressed down tight to activate the adhesive. This is what i use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/b0...?ie=utf8&psc=1

x2 ~ca

[JKyle]

Ascended, armed with: Wet soapy microfiber cloth, wet microfiber (for rinse) and dry microfiber (to dry,) along with a spray bottle of alcohol.

Washed, dried and wiped area with a bit of alcohol. Had piece of patch all cut and ready. Stuck it down and rolled it.

While I was up there I looked around more. Found a distinct air bubble hole in the Dicor running along the front cap. CLEAR hole, straight through. Gonna get up there and fill it, but gotta get some Dicor.

I think, before winter sets in, I'm going to start my 'Eternabond Journey.' I'll start with the long sides. I just question; When coming down from the roof with the tape, where do I stop? I have the trim rail that runs along the top edge (gutter,) with the inset vinyl cover and screws underneath. Eternabond UP TO that edge? I've seen some take the Eternabond straight into the gap (having removed the trim cover) going right over the screws.

Earlier in the year I plugged up a Dicor air hole (driver's side) on the roof, in the black Dicor at the front corner. Then, I opened up the trim and applied decor to the heads of every screw....buried them in it, then replaced the trim, but on that side only. Having found a small patch rippling in my bedroom ceiling along the outer edge.

I planned on doing the same on the passenger side, this fall.

My rig was mfg. 4/2022. The roof Dicor is original. It has been out in the elements for 2.5 solid years, now. It's not too dry and definitely not cracking. I think it'll be fine until the end of next season/summer. That's when I'll decide to Dicor the roof openings or Etenrabond them.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

I scrubbed my roof with Dawn dish soap and water. Good rinse and dry. Applied an Eternabond patch. Do NOT stretch the Eternabond or it will self release in a few days.

Yes. I knew about the 'no stretching' I used Eternabond on my pop-up roof rebuild, about 5 years ago. I just checked on that Eternabond this past trip, as my friend owns the camper now. It still looks great.

[gunafulltime]

Originally Posted by JKyle

Ascended, armed with: Wet soapy microfiber cloth, wet microfiber (for rinse) and dry microfiber (to dry,) along with a spray bottle of alcohol.

Washed, dried and wiped area with a bit of alcohol. Had piece of patch all cut and ready. Stuck it down and rolled it.

While I was up there I looked around more. Found a distinct air bubble hole in the Dicor running along the front cap. CLEAR hole, straight through. Gonna get up there and fill it, but gotta get some Dicor.

I think, before winter sets in, I'm going to start my 'Eternabond Journey.' I'll start with the long sides. I just question; When coming down from the roof with the tape, where do I stop? I have the trim rail that runs along the top edge (gutter,) with the inset vinyl cover and screws underneath. Eternabond UP TO that edge? I've seen some take the Eternabond straight into the gap (having removed the trim cover) going right over the screws.

Earlier in the year I plugged up a Dicor air hole (driver's side) on the roof, in the black Dicor at the front corner. Then, I opened up the trim and applied decor to the heads of every screw....buried them in it, then replaced the trim, but on that side only. Having found a small patch rippling in my bedroom ceiling along the outer edge.

I planned on doing the same on the passenger side, this fall.

My rig was mfg. 4/2022. The roof Dicor is original. It has been out in the elements for 2.5 solid years, now. It's not too dry and definitely not cracking. I think it'll be fine until the end of next season/summer. That's when I'll decide to Dicor the roof openings or Etenrabond them.

Nice Job on the patch!

1. I put 4" Eternabond around the perimeter. I place it about an 1/8" over the roof/wall extrusion screws.

2. Then I use an Exacto knife to cut off the tape around each screw head.

3. I follow that up with Eternabond caulk around each screw head. I make sure that I cover the entire head and that the caulk seals all the way back to the where the screw and extrusion meet.

4. Caulk both edges of the tape all the way around the roof.

5. Use 6" Eternabond for the seam where the roof membrane and cap meet. Seal both edges with Eternabond caulk.

*It is important to follow their directions. You should clean your roof. Then use the Eternabond cleaner and primer before you set a run of tape. Work in small sections of 1-2 feet. It is very easy to get gnarled up with the tape. It's best to take your time and smooth and press it down as you go. Also, abstain from stretching the tape. Place it gently without stretching it.

**If it were mine, I would put Eternabond caulk around the patch you made. It keeps it from peeling and helps protect the patch edges.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by gunafulltime

Nice Job on the patch!

1. I put 4" Eternabond around the perimeter. I place it about an 1/8" over the roof/wall extrusion screws.

2. Then I use an Exacto knife to cut off the tape around each screw head.

3. I follow that up with Eternabond caulk around each screw head. I make sure that I cover the entire head and that the caulk seals all the way back to the where the screw and extrusion meet.

4. Caulk both edges of the tape all the way around the roof.

5. Use 6" Eternabond for the seam where the roof membrane and cap meet. Seal both edges with Eternabond caulk.

*It is important to follow their directions. You should clean your roof. Then use the Eternabond cleaner and primer before you set a run of tape. Work in small sections of 1-2 feet. It is very easy to get gnarled up with the tape. It's best to take your time and smooth and press it down as you go. Also, abstain from stretching the tape. Place it gently without stretching it.

**If it were mine, I would put Eternabond caulk around the patch you made. It keeps it from peeling and helps protect the patch edges.

Thank you so much for the detailed instruction! I appreciate you sharing what you did. I just have one question. Once you placed the Eternabond and sealed the screws, you obviously didn’t replace the plastic trim in the channel?

[gunafulltime]

Our 2021 Jay Flight came without the seal. The screws were exposed/uncovered. Our 2016 Jay Feather had the seal. On the Feather, I ran the tape to about the middle of the seal (over the seal).

I'm sorry for the lack of clarity. Our 2021 is the third coach I've sealed with Eternabond. To date, we've never had water penetration from the roofs and roof/wall seams of any of our TTs. Hopefully, I didn't just jinx myself.