install 20A pushbutton breaker

[Bassdogs]

Based on input from forum members with electrical in their book of knowledge I purchased a 20A breaker to install on the Aux power input on my White Hawk. I added a thru the wall 110 inlet on the outside of the TT so I could plug in an isolated 20A extension that plugs into the power post.

I think I know the answers but before I do the installation I want to make sure. The breaker is connected to the positive [hot] wire that is connected to my dedicated outlet inside? Does the breaker connection need to be in an electrical box? If I had room I would change out and use a double box with the outlet on one side and the breaker button on the other, but a double won't fit. My only option is to add a 2nd single box and I have drilled a solid face plate and attached the breaker thru the hole.

Need advice / confirmation of the plan.

Thanks

[Grumpy]

NEC says all 120v connections need to be in a box.

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

NEC says all 120v connections need to be in a box.

Like I thought. The breaker has male connectors [to receive female push connectors], Can I crimp the female connectors to the positive in and out of the breaker and just push them on the back of the breaker. All of this would be inside the box.

My dedicated outlet was installed in the kickplate at the base of cabinets at the rear of the TT. The wiring is thru the same compartment that the pigtail is pushed into when not connected. I had to install the outlet box in a horizon position because the kickplate is not tall enough for a vertical placement. I'll have to move a few inches to one side and cut out for the 2nd box with the breaker/face plate.

Thanks

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Bassdogs

Like I thought. The breaker has male connectors [to receive female push connectors], Can I crimp the female connectors to the positive in and out of the breaker and just push them on the back of the breaker. All of this would be inside the box.

Just besure the crimp connectors are rated for 120v.

[Vicr]

WOW!!! I've been an electrician for 35 years and you guys are waaaaay out of your electrical skill sets to be doing any of what you've talked about. Breakers are to be installed in an electrical panel and do not have "male and female" connections. Please post photo's of what you have done and propose to do. All I read say is code violation and fire hazard.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Vicr

WOW!!! I've been an electrician for 35 years and you guys are waaaaay out of your electrical skill sets to be doing any of what you've talked about. Breakers are to be installed in an electrical panel and do not have "male and female" connections. Please post photo's of what you have done and propose to do. All I read say is code violation and fire hazard.

Guess you never worked on military stuff or commercial equipment. This one's good for 32-250 volts

[Vicr]

Ok, a re-settable circuit breaker. A picture's worth a thousand words. If protecting 120v then it should be installed in an enclosure.
Also, I have worked extensively at the facilities that manufacture commercial and military jet aircraft. I thought he was trying to "Gerry-rig" a residential type breaker. Sorry I'll go get more coffee.

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Vicr

WOW!!! I've been an electrician for 35 years and you guys are waaaaay out of your electrical skill sets to be doing any of what you've talked about. Breakers are to be installed in an electrical panel and do not have "male and female" connections. Please post photo's of what you have done and propose to do. All I read say is code violation and fire hazard.

Hey take a deep breath. You jumped all over this the last time installing an aux 110 input was discussed, We are not all a bunch of pumpkins out here. We kind of suggested you back off the "to dumb to try this" attitude. Any useful input would be appreciated. You might have missed the point that I was asking for help on this so I could do it correctly. The push breakers are common place in a lot of applications and this is one of them. I am protecting a dedicated 20A input line into my TT. I added the dedicated circuit/outlet a year ago and based on input on the forum I stepped back and am installing a breaker to protect the circuit and get straight with RV code. Am in the process of installing a box that will house the breaker that will be mounted directly next to the dedicated outlet box. And yes as the picture shows, they do come with male connectors.

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Just besure the crimp connectors are rated for 120v.

Good point. How do I know if they are rated for 120V? The ones I have are sized to match the connectors on the back of the breaker but there is nothing to indicate the rating. The tube for the wire is the right size to handle the 12guage wire that I am using.

Maybe Vic knows??

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Bassdogs

Good point. How do I know if they are rated for 120V? The ones I have are sized to match the connectors on the back of the breaker but there is nothing to indicate the rating. The tube for the wire is the right size to handle the 12guage wire that I am using.

Maybe Vic knows??

My connectors are female yellow for 10-12 guage wire.

[Vicr]

Yes, 600v rated using the proper wire. We always use THHN and base the amperage rating on the 75 degree table. And yes I can be an ass just be glad you don't have to work for me. I'll try to tone it down, it's not easy I'm pretty intense when it come to work related stuff.

[Bassdogs]

Thank you that was helpful.

[Bassdogs]

Done, Got it installed right next to the dedicated outlet. Think it looks good and will test the breaker later today.

[Vicr]

The easiest way to test it's tripping is to plug in two1500 watt heaters or a heater and another appliance like a hair dryer or toaster. Unlike a regular residential grade breaker these have a tendency to fail so I would carry a spare. They like to trip and not reset.

[Bassdogs]

Originally Posted by Vicr

The easiest way to test it's tripping is to plug in two1500 watt heaters or a heater and another appliance like a hair dryer or toaster. Unlike a regular residential grade breaker these have a tendency to fail so I would carry a spare. They like to trip and not reset.

That was my plan and I have already ordered a spare. I have used them before and never had a failure but at less than $10 its worth carrying a spare.