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Old 02-06-2021, 07:06 PM   #21
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We had a blowout on the back rear tire (4 tires on a Whitehawk). I had to put blocks under the jack to lift the wheel high enough to put the new tire on. When I lowered the jack, it was too high to remove. I have a 3 Ton Truck Jack with jack stand built in. Are there jacks for travel trailers that have a longer piston or throw. I solved the issue by placing a jack underneath the axle so I could lift the two inches to get the jack out, but this is not something I would normally ever do.
Anderson manufacturing makes a teardrop shaped dive on Jack for double axelled trailers. I've had to use mine twice. World great. I've seen a couple of copy cats for sale as well. I think it is. Called a rapid jack.
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:59 PM   #22
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Tireman 9: Yes, I have read the post, and multiple others on why tires fail. Nothing in any of the articles I read would explain why a properly inflated tire, meeting all Jayco recommended specs, meeting all the tire mfgs. specs, having checked the set-up at the CAT scales and having less than 700 miles on it would fail. It was a blowout, the TPMS worked as designed, instant alarm. So I am not sure what you might be suggesting.
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:10 PM   #23
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Florida Ranger: Good point. I have jacked up the trailer multiple times, changed wheel bearings, checked the brakes, etc. I have had the TT up on only one wheel on the side where I was working. Not once did I ever encounter until on the road and the spring sag created the issue. Not sure why, with one wheel off multiple times, the spring/axle ended up much lower than any other time.
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:25 PM   #24
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I use a trailer aid ramp. Just move the good wheel up on the ramp to lift the flat tire off the ground.
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Old 02-06-2021, 09:07 PM   #25
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Tireman 9: Yes, I have read the post, and multiple others on why tires fail. Nothing in any of the articles I read would explain why a properly inflated tire, meeting all Jayco recommended specs, meeting all the tire mfgs. specs, having checked the set-up at the CAT scales and having less than 700 miles on it would fail. It was a blowout, the TPMS worked as designed, instant alarm. So I am not sure what you might be suggesting.



The term "Blowout" is a catch-all for the tire failed and came apart. The post points out two distinctly different failure modes that leave distinctly different conditions that can help a knowledgeable tire engineer start an investigation.
What was the full DOT serial of the subject tire? Did you capture any pictures of the tire? Do you still have the tire in your possession? Have you filed a complaint with NHTSA yet. I am interested and want to help.
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Old 02-06-2021, 10:03 PM   #26
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Why can't the jack that is for the towing vehicle be used?
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Old 02-06-2021, 11:04 PM   #27
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That's an interesting tool but you really shouldn't jack up the trailer via the axles unless an emergency. Frame only.
The tool shown is for a lighter weight single axle trailer. Something like an anderson rapid Jack or one of its clones works for dual axle trailers. I've used mine twice on my 12000 lb Designer Delux.
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Old 02-06-2021, 11:31 PM   #28
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I bought a Trailer Aid Plus and it does not get the tire/wheel on our twin axle Jayflight TT high enough to remove the other wheel, most likely due to the axles being a bit farther apart than the Trailer Aid is designed for. I got a 6 ton bottle jack at Walmart, and put it on top of a stack of leveling blocks to get the jack high enough to apply to the frame, and avoid jacking on the axle, to raise one wheel at a time. I use one of the blocks between the jack head and the trailer frame - fits almost perfectly like the block was designed for it - to keep the small jack head from slipping on the meyal frame. Works great.
Here are the leveling blocks if you're interested: (https://www.campingworld.com/fasten-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:04 AM   #29
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I was returning from a trip to Colorado and had a blowout on a busy (and windy) section of I-10 between Sonora and Kerrville, TX. I had prepared for this. Got all of my gear out, broke the lug nuts with my 4-way, and started to raise the trailer with my bottle jack. It had fallen over on its side and the oil leaked out - would not lift. So I called Good Sam roadside. They sent someone out from Sonora Towing and Recovery. The owner, Norbert Ortiz, a very nice retired State trooper, arrived within 20 minutes. He had a cordless impact wrench and three 2 x 6s screwed together to form a pyramid (bottom board was about 28 inches long). He had me roll my good tire on to the boards which raised the blown tire enough to make mounting the spare a quick and easy job. Probably less than 10 minutes start to finish. We spent more time chatting with Norbert than changing the tire. About as good of an experience you could have with a blowout on an interstate.
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:23 AM   #30
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I have not had to change a tire in 6 years but I am still carrying the equipment to change it.

You never know when a road hazard like a piece of metal or a nail will try to ruin your trip.
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:44 AM   #31
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I have the Trailer Aid and when I first used it on my dual axle trailer it failed to raise the tire hire enough. I removed the lag screws from the underside and added a couple of inches of wood and attached with longer lag screws where the original screws were. I cut the leading edge of the wood to match the slope angle of the Trailer Aid. It works great now-just for the cost of a few pieces of scrap wood and a few lag screws. I just toss it is the bed of the truck before heading out just in case.
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:48 AM   #32
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Photo of the Blowout

Here is a photo of the blowout and damage to the TT, note the plastic skirt is missing. I have searched through all my photos and none of them reveal the tire information. I do not have the tire any longer. I was just happy to get back on the road. I wasn't even aware of the possibility of filing a complaint, good to know and thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Tire Blowout 2020.jpg  
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Old 02-15-2021, 01:17 PM   #33
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Here is a photo of the blowout and damage to the TT, note the plastic skirt is missing. I have searched through all my photos and none of them reveal the tire information. I do not have the tire any longer. I was just happy to get back on the road. I wasn't even aware of the possibility of filing a complaint, good to know and thanks.

Well that points out something that everyone should do. Record your tire DOT serial number Yes all 11 to 13 letters and numbers. There are a couple reasons to record this and other info such as the complete size (letters and numbers) Tire Max load and the Load Range "C", "D" etc.

1. When it comes time to replace tires you need to get tires that have load capacity equal or greater than the original tires.
2. If there is a tire recall, the recalled tires are identified by their DOT serial.
3. Finally, if you have a tire failure and the tire is damaged and the serial is not readable you would just consult your file.


Yes you should always file a complaint with NHTSA (part of DOT responsible for tires) They need data (complaints) for them to start any investigation into the quality of tires. NHTSA sometimes even forces companies to recall and replace - for free- car parts that have been judged to not meet the DOT quality standards. To get a free replacement you would need some proof that you owned the recalled tires.
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Old 02-16-2021, 09:54 AM   #34
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Thank you Tireman, that is great information. I will be visiting the TT this week and do as instructed.
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:41 PM   #35
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With a tandem axle trailer you should be able to drive the good tire up on enough blocks to get the bad tire off. You should test the number of blocks that you need to get the new tire on the hub. Camp drive way is a good place to test that. I carry a 20V electric impact wrench to change tires. put the clutch full on to get the lug nuts off. back the clutch off and slowly increase the setting until it matches the torque wrench value and write that down or mark the setting on the wrench. How much battery you have left doesn't matter because you are looking to hear the clutch hammer telling you have reached the torque value. Now if doesn't have enough power to make the clutch hammer you have a problem. You need at least an 18 V wrench.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:31 PM   #36
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Always carry 2 - 6 ton bottle jacks and a few wood blocks. Breaker bar and socket.
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Old 03-04-2021, 04:44 PM   #37
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today I tested how I will jack the whitehawk when and if needed. I will use a 4 ton bottle jack and a 12x12" box to get high enough to take most of the weight off. Then I can use a 1.5 ton bottle jack to lift using a special wooden block to light at the shackle bolts just to get the tire off the ground. I also carry a 4 ton bottle. PS never had to change a tire on any rv yet. 1995 to 2021. lucky me but always prepared. chevman
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