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Old 09-03-2019, 02:45 PM   #1
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Need to reseal roof, first time, some questions

Hello,

I have a 2011 Jayflight 26BH.

I'm wanting to reseal my roof before I put it away this fall and just have some general questions. I've watched youtube, talked to some techs but nobody seems to have the same answer as to how to approach it. I've attached a few photos of my roof seals. I haven't noticed any water coming inside from any of these seals but they look pretty rough, but I don't know if just the skin on the top is what is cracked or it runs deeper.

Should I be removing all of this existing sealant or putting new stuff over top it? Will it come off easy or do I risk damaging the rubber membrane roof? Should I use Dicor lap sealant or something like Chemtron to just paint over and fill in any cracks/gaps. I think I can handle the compartments and windows and such, just remove old and use proflex to redo a bead on those. The seam where it joins the front and side, not totally sure if I have to remove the trim or just caulk over what looks like the putty tape that was behind it.

We also have some weird spots as shown in the image called rustspots.jpg that are by the water heater and under the rear bunk windows. We had some water in the compartment under the windows that I figured was from cracked sealant on the compartment itself...I patched that up but next time I looked inside it was wet again. My wife was making the kids beds and noticed the wall was squishy and wavy. I know its very thin stuff there and will easily get damaged if wet. It seemed to be coming from both windows there, the top seemed to have pulled away from the siding so water was likely coming in there all season. We put some silicone on there while we camping and it hasn't been wet in the compartment since. Wife is worried about mould in the wall now as it was likely wet most of the spring (it has rained nearly every day here this summer).

Any advice or direction is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
Attached Thumbnails
bathfan.jpg   vent.jpg   sunlight.jpg   memb2.jpg   rustspots.jpg  

roofsidejoin1.jpg   roofsidejoin2.jpg   sunlightclose.jpg   frontsideseam.jpg  
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Old 09-03-2019, 04:00 PM   #2
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Water is your trailer's greatest enemy. Why oh why did you wait so long to tend to your seals? That Dicor gave up a long time ago.

Roof:
You can just put more Dicor right on top of the old stuff. After you clean it. Or, much better, put Eternabond tape over it. Or even better, scrape off the old Dicor with a plastic putty knife, and replace it with Eternabond tape. We did this to our trailer when it was brand new.

And don't forget the foam gasket under the AC unit on the roof. Needs to be adjusted from the inside periodically. And replace periodically.

All seals need to be inspected and tended to early and often. Around windows, compartments, lights, anywhere there's a hole in the trailer.

I'm giving you the Cliff's Notes version here, and all the details you need are easily searched and found on the web.

With regard to the suspected mold from water intrusion, you can do a fairly major open and fix, or fix the leaks and hope for the best.
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Old 09-03-2019, 04:11 PM   #3
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Thanks Siamese,

I just trusted people who I figure know better than me, who look at it and say it is still good. Is it Dicor that is on there right now? Why is it black? Old and dirty or another color or product?

If I decide to just go over top the old stuff, what do I clean it with? I've seen mineral spirits and denatured alcohol mentioned as well as Dicor's roof cleaner. I don't think I have time to remove all of it before I need to park it so over top might be the way to go. It has rained nearly every day this summer so it has been difficult to get to.
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Old 09-03-2019, 04:51 PM   #4
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The maker says to avoid any petroleum based products on your roof. If you're able, start with something like Spic & Span, let it dry, and follow up with Acetone. Paper towel and rubber gloves to protect your skin. If you can't do the initial wash, just the Acetone clean will probably suffice. Go right over top of the existing Dicor with the new, "self leveling" Dicor. Be sure it's the self leveling stuff.

With regard to how your old Dicor looks, it started out as a medium/light gray, but got dirty over the years. And cracked.

P.S.
Your roof should be inspected at least annually. By you. Any cracking in the Dicor is a sign that it's failing. Or failed. Nobody's going to keep your trailer dry for you. I may be coming across as harsh, but I don't know a way to sugar coat it.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:13 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=Siamese;789325]The maker says to avoid any petroleum based products on your roof. If you're able, start with something like Spic & Span, let it dry, and follow up with Acetone.


Acetone is a petroleum product, not sure I'd use that on my roof.
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Old 09-03-2019, 11:19 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=GarlicDude;789329]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siamese View Post
The maker says to avoid any petroleum based products on your roof. If you're able, start with something like Spic & Span, let it dry, and follow up with Acetone.


Acetone is a petroleum product, not sure I'd use that on my roof.
So, chemistry isn't your strong suit?
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:08 AM   #7
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Do as you wish
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:54 AM   #8
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Unfortunately, you've got some work ahead of you...

You can use mineral spirits to clean the old dicor, just be VERY careful to avoid contact with the roof membrane as much as possible. Especially don't let the container spill and pool on the roof membrane. Apply it to a cloth and clean only the sealant carefully. These membranes are sensitive to products containing "petroleum distillates", so limit their use wherever possible near the roof.

If I were you, I would begin with several tubes of Dicor self-leveling right over top of the old stuff after you've cleaned it. You can (and should) apply Eternabond overtop of the whole works later, but you need to get the sealant on there now. Use Dicor self-leveling for any horizontal surface, and don't be stingy with it. If you think you have enough, go ahead and pick up 2 more tubes.

For the window, I would dismount the window, replace the seal and then re-mount the window(s). Some people have done this to brand new units because the seals on them are so bad. I believe the preferred sealant is butyl tape.

For the "corners", you can remove the vinyl screw cover (and replace it with new; get it by the spool from just about anywhere), remove the screws for the corner trim, clean it out and re-seal using butyl tape. Touch up any gaps or other spots with OSI Quad Sealant (use this for VERTICAL surfaces; available at most big box home improvement outlets). Dicor NON-LEVELING sealant can also be used.

DO NOT USE silicone for anything on your rig. It will not last, and often it won't stick.

As for the existing water damage in the wall, I would remove the panel, let it dry thoroughly, replace/upgrade the insulation and put it back together.

That corrosion on the aluminum is concerning. From what I understand, that means there has been water intrusion behind the panel. And IIRC, it could also indicate an electrical problem?

Like I said, you have a lot of work ahead of you if you want to get the unit right again. It's up to you if it's all worth it or not. My dad let some water leaks go unattended on a used trailer be bought for the deer lease. Two years, and the trailer will basically be scrapped. I could put my foot through the floor in a couple places. Granted, his problems were WAY worse than yours, but the point is you can't let these things go unattended. Even a relatively or seemingly small amount of water will completely destroy a camper.

Water intrusion is what my nightmares are made of. If I even find a drop of water in my rig, I work to figure out why it's there until I know FOR SURE what caused it. Melted ice cube that was dropped, dog drool, drippy hands from washing, whatever... Just so I know exactly where it came from so that if it's a leak I can fix it immediately.

ETA, as you work, watch out for rusted screws. Those are a good indication of water intrusion. The screws will literally rust from the inside out.
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Old 09-07-2019, 12:32 PM   #9
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What is this piece

See attached image. I’m cleaning and sealing now just not sure what to do with this. What is it? Fridge cooling? Above fridge freezer area. Remove old seals on the screws and take it off? Seal under and then cover back up? Seems like would be hard to seal under without removing.

Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2020, 06:08 AM   #10
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That is the refrigerator vent cover.
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:45 AM   #11
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[QUOTE=GarlicDude;789329]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siamese View Post
The maker says to avoid any petroleum based products on your roof. If you're able, start with something like Spic & Span, let it dry, and follow up with Acetone.


Acetone is a petroleum product, not sure I'd use that on my roof.

Acetone and the rubber roof DO NOT MIX... dicor sure, but don't get it on your roof... it will more or less melt it.. well not melt it as in heat melting but it causes the rubber to get unstable for lack of a better description.... I know this because I tried it.. before I did a bunch of cleaning.... YMMV....
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:22 PM   #12
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Eternabond tape is amazing stuff and another go to for me is sikaflex. I'm not a big fan of dicor lap sealant. ��
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