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Old 04-02-2012, 12:58 AM   #11
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Well answered my own question kinda this weekend.

TT at my mom's place for storage, battery here at home, changed and ready to go.

So the wife,kids and I head down to Mom's friday night for some driveway camping lol

Plugged into mom's shore power and things are fine, furnace and fridge working well. No water as it's still dipping below freezing here and not really big on frozen pipes.

Anyway....

Latter that night our first issue came to light... the furnace was cycling on/off... like we're out of gas. Can't be.. new 30lb'er that was full from the dealer... or was it?

Anyway, no other propane tanks around to try.. and not wanting to wake up mom, we just turned on a portable electric heater and off we went.. chilly, but ok...

Next morning, tested the stove and it lit... then went out.. again, like no gas.
Unbolted the tank (please tell me there is a better way than nut and bolts to hold the tank on like a quick release clamp or some sort???)

So the take feels full... I connect the hose and the furnace and stove work correctly. Took the tank in and had it filled... it was full, only took 3L to fill it.

Any idea why the gas stopped? Worked fine for the next 24 hours.... Opinion?


Then the next issue hits...

On the evening of day two.. we arrive back a mom's place. I notice the outside lite is not on, pretty sure I left it on as I knew we'd be getting back after dark. Open the door and turn on the lights... no lights and it's **** cold in the trailer. We left the heat on as we have kids and when kids are cold they're cranky...

SO I checked shore power... it's live, power to the microwave is there, the electric space heater fired up...

so now thinking it's go not battery power...

check the batter with a muliti meter and it's down under 8 volts.. so I know the battery is likely ruined. But why was it not taking a charge from the inverter? Dead inverter? Checked fuses.. all good (tested)

So it has to be a dead inverter right?

and if so.. the stock batter will last about 48 hrs of lights/furnace and fridge.
and thinking lights were supplied by shore power.. we were not frugal at all with saving battery.

So off to the dealer tomorrow and have them replace the inverter

thoughts anyone?
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:44 AM   #12
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The converter has it's own breaker and if not on will not charge or convert 120V to 12V for power. I would check that first since your battery was working properly before that. Put a meter across the battery to confirm charge.

On the propane, sometimes you can get airlock which needs to be purged in order for things to work right. The fastest way is the cooktop since it will just flow until you turn it off. It should only take about 30 seconds max to light. The furnace and fridge will quit after several unsuccessul cycles.

Since you took of the connections you could have also had a bad connection at the tank which you resolved once you reconnected also.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:56 AM   #13
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The converter has it's own breaker and if not on will not charge or convert 120V to 12V for power. I would check that first since your battery was working properly before that. Put a meter across the battery to confirm charge.

On the propane, sometimes you can get airlock which needs to be purged in order for things to work right. The fastest way is the cooktop since it will just flow until you turn it off. It should only take about 30 seconds max to light. The furnace and fridge will quit after several unsuccessul cycles.

Since you took of the connections you could have also had a bad connection at the tank which you resolved once you reconnected also.
I flipped each break that was in the inverter inclosure, no help, might there be another break I missed? I suppose could be a bad breaker.

The inverter fan turns on briefly when turning on one of the breakers.
There is ac flowing to the ac outlets so at least part of the panel is working.

I've had meter across the posts... should be reading 14.4 if on a flat battery, less voltage drop from front to rear of course. Measured voltage at the battery with inverter connected and shore power live.. was 7.4 volts.

I've been to the dealer this morning, there is a house call in place for the morning.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:11 AM   #14
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Another way to check and see if your TV is set up for providing 12v to the trailer is to check pin #4 on your truck connector. If you have voltage, the fuse/relay are installed. If you voltage they might not be. Some trucks require the key to be on and others this pin is hot all the time (mine is).
Do a google search for the pin outs for RV 7 pin connectors.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:19 AM   #15
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Another way to check and see if your TV is set up for providing 12v to the trailer is to check pin #4 on your truck connector. If you have voltage, the fuse/relay are installed. If you voltage they might not be. Some trucks require the key to be on and others this pin is hot all the time (mine is).
Do a google search for the pin outs for RV 7 pin connectors.
Due to no power in the TT, we connected the TV and had power, with key off.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:50 PM   #16
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Due to no power in the TT, we connected the TV and had power, with key off.
Be careful in this configuration - It would not be hard to drain the TV batteries.

I think I read that you tested the voltage at the batteries with the AC hooked up and got 8 or so volts DC. If that is right, I would likely disconnect the batteries and test the wires that go to the batteries, with the trailer plugged in. Should give you best case charging voltage. Be careful, easy to short stuff out when doing things like this.

My thought it perhaps you have a badly shorted battery and it is killing the voltage. Another way to test this is measuring amps, but that requires a DC ammeter - and one that could take a pretty large amounts of amps. Mine can only take 10A and in this case I would not use it!

Partial shorts somewhere in the system could also be to blame....they can be a bear to track down.

All this said, I think the likely cause if a bad converter - that by now has either killed or severely maimed you battery(s).

-Chak


WARNING: The guy writing above has no idea what he is talking about - if you follow his advice and damage something, well, you can't say you weren't warned
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:20 AM   #17
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Dealer tech should be crawling around the TT in the next couple hours, I'll post an update once we find out what's wrong..

Agreed, the battery is now pooched lol
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:15 PM   #18
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Same here on my 2011 F150. Was wondering why the heck the lights, other than markers and turn, didn't come on. Called my dealer and they told me to look in the glove box and there it was. I asked him why the Ford dealer didn't tell me about this and he made a good point. "They sell trucks not Jaycos". Well he was right. Worked perfect from that point forward.
I am guessing that since all of my running lights work that either the fuse and relay were factory installed or were installed when my RV dealer prepped my truck. This has been a really useful thread. Thanks everyone.
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:56 PM   #19
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Well... appears there was a 40 amp fuse missing from the panel. I seen the empty spot but figured it must have just been a common inverter layout for different models and the missing fuse was likely for another model.

So much for dealer prep.

Battery replaced and all is well.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:18 PM   #20
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[QUOTE=RoyBraddy;67960]Some trucks do and some dont... My 2010 F150 didnt charge the trailer battery so i got to looking into it. I found an open fuse slot that was labeled Trailer Tow or something like that. So kept digging around in the manual and finally read to look in glove box and you will find a relay and a fuse. Sure enough I had an unmarked brown envelope in the glove box witha fuse and relay in it. I installed those two items where the manual said to do so and now J have trailer battery charge from my truck. It is however only on when I have the truck key on...

I would take the truck in and ask sales why I wasn't told about that.... Then I would ask for a free oil change for the trouble you went throu.

Ram's are ready for towing from the time you pick them up....
Remember f o r d is short for fix or repair daily
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