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Old 09-04-2022, 07:28 AM   #1
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Overkill?

New Member, first post.

just bought our first full hard side camper. its a used 2018 Jay Flight 174BH. One owner from a military family that bought it new and was stationed overseas within a few months of purchase. stored outside while they owned and minimal if any preventative maintenance.

bought it 2 weeks ago and found a water spot on the front mattress after the first rain. getting a small drip, just a few drops after the storm, coming down from the top of the front window directly out of the window seam. camper also has a dried water spot inside, passenger side front corner on the sidewall just above mattress height, maybe 10" in diameter and some water stains on the wood in that corner, just under the mattress.

So, I taped off the exterior, every seam (corners, lights, windows, etc) and used Geocel Pro Flex on all seams.

Next up is the roof. I plan to use Eternabond tape on around it, starting in the back then the sides then front so the seams overlap front to back. on the sides, Ill prob bring the tape down into the gutter and over the corner channel. I plan to use Dicor on teh tape edges. Prob also tape all things attached on the roof too (skylight, fan etc).

Seams like this is overkill but id rather do this now and save myself a big pain the rear later, preventative rather than repair in this case.

What do the experts here say? should I have just address the front exterior seams? Maybe I should peak behind the panel with the water damage? It looks like its dried up so Im wasnt planning on it. Pics to come later.
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Old 09-04-2022, 08:13 AM   #2
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Welcome to the Jayco Owner's Forums.

When it comes to stopping leaks and preventing future leaks, there is no such thing as overkill imo. I wouldn't pull any panels unless there are signs of damage significant enough where repairs are needed. If the walls and panels are otherwise solid feeling then I would just keep an eye out for mold or further leaks.

I also use Geocel, however only on the sides, for the rooftop I would use Self Levelling Dicor and\or Eternabond tape.

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Old 09-04-2022, 08:36 AM   #3
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Welcome to the group and I agree, no such thing as overkill when leaks are involved!
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Old 09-04-2022, 10:37 AM   #4
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It took me a second time to make sure I was watertight. My front window leaked in every rain that included wind or on road. 1/4 inch gap at bottom that let in spray directed upwards by wind flow.

If you get water inside then you will get rot and mold.

As above, no overkill in keeping out the water. I did my Etearnabond roof last year and inspect it twice a year.
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Old 09-04-2022, 11:14 AM   #5
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Welcome from Northern California! As the folks before have said “ no such thing as overkill “ .
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Old 09-14-2022, 08:34 PM   #6
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alright, finally getting around to posting some pics of the work I've done.

The proflex went on well. I do think there are a few spots Id like to go back over but overall its pretty good. literally hit every seam on the sides with the exception of the corrugated metal seams. but windows, door, storage, etc. stuff is super sticky and the lines arent as clean as what Id like but its not bad for a DIY first timer.

The roof is nearing completion. I taped the rear edge and both sides. on the sides I was able to wrap it into the gutter channel and then back on top. Just did this tonight. its hard to press the tape as its in the gutter channel and I'm a bit worried about the adhesion there but once out of the gutter, its sticking well and esp as it wraps up onto the roof. I do plan to go back and trim out the corners with more tape along with the front seam. Then I'll follow up with Dicor.

BUT one question for those who have experience using the Dicor self leveling sealant on your roof, when you run a bead, are you running your finger across it to smooth it out? or just run the bead and leave it to settle in and self level i guess?

I taped the antenna on the roof and used my finer on the dicor seam, and I'm not real happy with the results. I feel like it should have just run the bead and let it settle.

Here are a few pics of the Proflex and the taped edges. unfortunately no pics of the dicor seam around the antenna.
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IMG_2231.jpg   IMG_2228.jpg   IMG_2232.jpg   IMG_2235.jpg   IMG_2237.jpg  

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Old 09-14-2022, 10:17 PM   #7
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Nice work! I did the front cap and all the normal rooftop items (vents, skylight, antenna, etc.) but failed to do the sidewalls.
I did find when I went to remove the front cap dicor I found one screw completely missing, one broken off and one rusty under the dicor. Glad I did it as those were all invitations to disaster. Now, after seeing yours, back to the sides along the gutters with another roll of Eatearnabond.

PS what width did you use on the sidewalls and was it the right width?
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Old 09-15-2022, 05:42 AM   #8
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I used 4” and ran one piece the entire length of the trailer. It was wide enough. I measured beforehand to ensure it would work. To lay the tape down to on the side edges, I found it best to setup the tape in the gutter and slowly peel off the backing while working the tape to apply pressure. It’s tough the get pressure on the tape down in the gutter.

Did you remove all the dicor from the front seam? How hard was that? I was told not to attempt that for risk of puncturing the roof membrane. I did pull a little off the corrugated metal but left it at a straight line about one inch in front of the front seam. The 4” tape can cover this entire seam now. I ended up just buying a 50’ roll of the tape from eBay to cover the entire length I need. I think its just barely going to be enough. That is after I already bought a 30’ roll before I had this entirely thought out.
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Old 09-15-2022, 06:50 AM   #9
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As mentioned you can never do enough preventative maintenance and
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Old 09-15-2022, 08:31 AM   #10
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I followed the recommendations on other posts and used an old hair dryer to warm up the old dicor and a plastic putty knife with no sharp edges to get it up. I did end up gouging a spot on the edge of one vent opening but it is safely below a piece of Etearnabond now. Mostly a matter of taking your time so you don't make a mistake(see above, LOL). Getting the lumpy dicor off makes the end product look nicer and possible increases adhesion and makes it more waterproof.

If I ever have to replace a vent or skylight I will carefully cut the tape at the edge of the skylight and then put new over the old on the roof.
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Old 09-15-2022, 08:34 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Krazo View Post
alright, finally getting around to posting some pics of the work I've done.

The proflex went on well. I do think there are a few spots Id like to go back over but overall its pretty good. literally hit every seam on the sides with the exception of the corrugated metal seams. but windows, door, storage, etc. stuff is super sticky and the lines arent as clean as what Id like but its not bad for a DIY first timer.

The roof is nearing completion. I taped the rear edge and both sides. on the sides I was able to wrap it into the gutter channel and then back on top. Just did this tonight. its hard to press the tape as its in the gutter channel and I'm a bit worried about the adhesion there but once out of the gutter, its sticking well and esp as it wraps up onto the roof. I do plan to go back and trim out the corners with more tape along with the front seam. Then I'll follow up with Dicor.

BUT one question for those who have experience using the Dicor self leveling sealant on your roof, when you run a bead, are you running your finger across it to smooth it out? or just run the bead and leave it to settle in and self level i guess?

I taped the antenna on the roof and used my finer on the dicor seam, and I'm not real happy with the results. I feel like it should have just run the bead and let it settle.

Here are a few pics of the Proflex and the taped edges. unfortunately no pics of the dicor seam around the antenna.
Looks good! Did you apply any Eternabond cross the TT where the front cap meets the roof (shown in your 4th image)? This is a fairly common location for the sealant to fail.
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Old 09-15-2022, 09:01 AM   #12
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Looks good! Did you apply any Eternabond cross the TT where the front cap meets the roof (shown in your 4th image)? This is a fairly common location for the sealant to fail.
I have not put any tape there yet but its definitely next on the list. I'll run tape down that entire seam and then also look at using tape on all four of the corner joints. However on the corner joints I'm not sure how I'll do those just yet. I want a clean look on those and the tape just doesn't lay nice and even across that part. I want to look for some examples and come up with a plan before I just start laying the tape down.
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Old 09-19-2022, 06:28 AM   #13
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alrighty, well i finally got the tape on the front seam, where the corrugated metal meets the rooftop. went back over all roof seams with self leveling dicor. I did not smooth out the caulk bead. I had tried doing this when I taped and sealed the radio & tv antennas and after seeing the results there, I wanted to try this route. I ended up going back over the radio/tv antenna areas with more dicor to make sure those seams were sealed.

Now on to replacing the bath skylight. I removed the old yesterday, pulled up all the old sealant and cleaned the area. I dry fit the new skylight, marked corners with tape, BUT i didnt have any skylight adhesive/sealant. SO today i'll pick up some at the local dealer and finish getting that sealed and screwed down. after that, tape it and seal the tape edges.

Then I install the MAXXair vent and the roof repairs should be completed. I'll then be ready to give it good bath and use some type of UV protectant.

Pics to come.
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Old 09-19-2022, 06:52 AM   #14
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Welcome to the Jayco Owner's Forums.

When it comes to stopping leaks and preventing future leaks, there is no such thing as overkill imo. I wouldn't pull any panels unless there are signs of damage significant enough where repairs are needed. If the walls and panels are otherwise solid feeling then I would just keep an eye out for mold or further leaks.

I also use Geocel, however only on the sides, for the rooftop I would use Self Levelling Dicor and\or Eternabond tape.

Welcome aboard ~CA
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and welcome from Michigan : )
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Old 09-30-2022, 12:26 PM   #15
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Re: Rain in front of BH174

I seem to have the same issue with my 2019 BH174. Standing still no issues but while travelling in rain I get water inside on the leading edge (B in the pic) of the bed. No water on the window (A - inside or out), no water or moisture on the inside panelling. Only occurs when travelling in heavy rain at highway speed. Jayco said they had never heard of the issue. I mentioned there was no seal around the bottom of the front window or the bottom half of the sides of the front window.

How would water get through a wall thats 1 1/2" thick and not leave a water trail on the panel?

Thinking I should just seal the whole outside or perhaps remove the inside trim to the window and try to seal that. Jayco gave me the spec diagrams for the front wall but it does not show a window in the construction.

Anybody ever pulled their window? I want to get a closer look.
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Old 09-30-2022, 01:07 PM   #16
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I don't have that same trailer but do have a similar one with that type of window in the front (Jayco 175RD). I didn't have any leaks, but the window seal strip on the front window was popping out in several places - specifically, the seal strip between the glass and the metal frame, on the exterior of the window. There was also a gap of about 1 cm in the window seal. I pulled out the whole seal, and there was no sealant holding it in place. I ran a bead of black silicone around the edge of the window where the seal strip fits, then reinstalled the strip.

Haven't towed it in any rain, so can't say whether that's the source of your leak, but maybe worth a look.

There was also minimal caulking above that front window, above the hard window cover and the drip edge. That was pretty obviously missing from the factory, so I added more to help.

Another possible leak source: my trailer has an in-wall air conditioner at the front left corner, and there is a rectangular vent above the AC, poking through the roof. I recently removed that vent to gain access to the roof seam (decided to put Eternabond tape across the front sram where the metal front siding meets up with the rubber roof), and found several gaps in the factory caulk around the base of that AC roof vent. Driving in a heavy rain might well force water into that area, so perhaps worth a look up there, if you have the same sort of AC and vent arrangement.
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Old 09-30-2022, 01:27 PM   #17
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I seem to have the same issue with my 2019 BH174. Standing still no issues but while travelling in rain I get water inside on the leading edge (B in the pic) of the bed. No water on the window (A - inside or out), no water or moisture on the inside panelling. Only occurs when travelling in heavy rain at highway speed. Jayco said they had never heard of the issue. I mentioned there was no seal around the bottom of the front window or the bottom half of the sides of the front window.

How would water get through a wall thats 1 1/2" thick and not leave a water trail on the panel?

Thinking I should just seal the whole outside or perhaps remove the inside trim to the window and try to seal that. Jayco gave me the spec diagrams for the front wall but it does not show a window in the construction.

Anybody ever pulled their window? I want to get a closer look.
Very similar situation. My trailer, 174BH has the water stains on the leading edge of the bed as well. came from previous owner that way so no telling when or how it happened. But as Chupacabra pointed out the window seal, my trailer also had a very poor window seal. I just used a heavy amount of geocel in all the locations he mentioned, especially at the top of the window. We havnt had rain in quite some time so dont know if I fixed it yet. but i'll def be waiting for the next storm to look and see.


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I don't have that same trailer but do have a similar one with that type of window in the front (Jayco 175RD). I didn't have any leaks, but the window seal strip on the front window was popping out in several places - specifically, the seal strip between the glass and the metal frame, on the exterior of the window. There was also a gap of about 1 cm in the window seal. I pulled out the whole seal, and there was no sealant holding it in place. I ran a bead of black silicone around the edge of the window where the seal strip fits, then reinstalled the strip.

Haven't towed it in any rain, so can't say whether that's the source of your leak, but maybe worth a look.

There was also minimal caulking above that front window, above the hard window cover and the drip edge. That was pretty obviously missing from the factory, so I added more to help.

Another possible leak source: my trailer has an in-wall air conditioner at the front left corner, and there is a rectangular vent above the AC, poking through the roof. I recently removed that vent to gain access to the roof seam (decided to put Eternabond tape across the front sram where the metal front siding meets up with the rubber roof), and found several gaps in the factory caulk around the base of that AC roof vent. Driving in a heavy rain might well force water into that area, so perhaps worth a look up there, if you have the same sort of AC and vent arrangement.
Thanks for the insight to what you experienced and how you repaired.
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Old 09-30-2022, 02:09 PM   #18
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I have a 195RB with the same front window.

I finally found the problem area on my window by having spouse hold a flashlight after dark to the frame and moving it until I "saw the light". No kidding. The rubber seal gaped 1/4 inch from the window edge. Just a bad install. I did not want to remove the window and the dealer is 175 miles away.

I caulked around the window with Geocel clear. After it was well dried tried it out with a hose and caulked some more. Then used the rest of the tube to go over all the windows, storage door, air vents for furnace, etc.

Take your time, clean area before applying, let set up and test with a strong stream of water.

Because my hole was on the bottom I only got leakage when driving in rain or lots of wind. Some ran inside the wall and leaked at a seam lower and also got into storage under the bed. Caught it before mold damage!
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Old 09-30-2022, 02:41 PM   #19
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I seem to have the same issue with my 2019 BH174. Standing still no issues but while travelling in rain I get water inside on the leading edge (B in the pic) of the bed. No water on the window (A - inside or out), no water or moisture on the inside panelling. Only occurs when travelling in heavy rain at highway speed. Jayco said they had never heard of the issue. I mentioned there was no seal around the bottom of the front window or the bottom half of the sides of the front window.

How would water get through a wall thats 1 1/2" thick and not leave a water trail on the panel?

Thinking I should just seal the whole outside or perhaps remove the inside trim to the window and try to seal that. Jayco gave me the spec diagrams for the front wall but it does not show a window in the construction.

Anybody ever pulled their window? I want to get a closer look.
I had the same issue with our 2015 195RB Baja. Here is a link to a post that details the issues I found and how I resolved them:

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ml#post1050933
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