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Old 06-28-2014, 09:40 AM   #1
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Pressure relief valve

So... It turns out that last week when I checked my systems, I had forgotten to open the bypass valves to the water heater. But that just kept my head from exploding....

Connected to the house through the city water port, crossed fingers and turned on the water. As pressure built, water began to profusely exit from the pressure relief valve connection ( inside and outside the TT). To be clear...not through the valve itself, but rather where the valve connects to the tank.

How do I trouble shoot this?
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:46 AM   #2
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If you have the right size pressure relief valve and it is not cross threaded, sounds like the fitting on the tank could have cracked. Was the water heater drained before freezing temperatures??? If it is also allowing water on the inside of the trailer, a line could also be cracked on the inside. The pressure relief valve leak should only allow water on the outside of the unit, I think! Certainly not an expert.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:01 AM   #3
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The tank was drained and bypassed before winter. Unfortunately, I didn't winterize the rest of the plumbing and am paying the price for that as well (new toilet valve, new water pump and counting.). It's 4 years old now and prior to this there was nary a drip.

I try to set the example most times, but this time I'm serving as a warning. :-(
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:07 AM   #4
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Sorry to hear all that. You might try hooking up some air flow to pressurize your unit and then you could perhaps hear the leaks without running water all over the place. That could save you a lot of further damage in your quest to find all your leaks. Just a thought. Whenever I winterized my unit, and after draining all the low point drains etc., I run air pressure through my system to get any water that might be left to try and push it all the way out.
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:10 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by namusmc65 View Post
Sorry to hear all that. You might try hooking up some air flow to pressurize your unit and then you could perhaps hear the leaks without running water all over the place. That could save you a lot of further damage in your quest to find all your leaks. Just a thought. Whenever I winterized my unit, and after draining all the low point drains etc., I run air pressure through my system to get any water that might be left to try and push it all the way out.
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:45 AM   #6
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Epilogue

Took it to the dealer last weekend and brought it home today.

Tank was cracked. Replaced.
As long as they had it, I asked them to eyeball my toilet repair and pump replacement (and mount it to the floor for me). Both those were fine.

Everything works again. Sanitized the tank/plumbing overnight. Flushed out three times today. Found that the pump would not prime itself unless I removed the screen and dumped the water. Seems odd, but at the same time, it'll force me to check it often, and the shop installed it in a convienent location for that (far better than where Jayco put it).

All's well that ends well. You can bet I'll thoroughly winterize this year!
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Merlinspop View Post
Took it to the dealer last weekend and brought it home today.

Tank was cracked. Replaced.
Woa.....what was the date on the tank?
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:25 PM   #8
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Well, now you know better anyway. Not sure where you live but we are in South Georgia and it got all the way down to the mid teens for three days in a row. I would not go without winterizing when it is getting down there. I may winterized two or three times during the winter because we still use ours in the winter months. When we come in If we aren't going out for a week or so, I winterized again. Much easier than going through what you did.
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:35 PM   #9
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I did drain the tank and bypass the WH before winter, but didn't blow it out or anything. Don't know what else I can do for the WH. Not winterizing cost me the toilet valve and water pump (new one is much quieter).

Would flushing sediment and or using an anode plug help?
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:38 AM   #10
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water heater

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Originally Posted by Merlinspop View Post
I did drain the tank and bypass the WH before winter, but didn't blow it out or anything. Don't know what else I can do for the WH. Not winterizing cost me the toilet valve and water pump (new one is much quieter).

Would flushing sediment and or using an anode plug help?
I think the Atwood water heaters do not have anode rods. There is a small air hose attachment with an elbow or angled hook on the end that will fit inside where the plug comes off to blow the water and sediment from the bottom of the tank out. That might help. Once you have drained the system good, make sure the valves are closed so no water can drain back from the rest of the pipes into the water heater. Other than that, the only other thing I know to do is put some anti-freeze into your water heater or perhaps put some insulation over the access panel on the outside to keep the freezing temp out. Sounds like the trailer did well if the pipes on the inside did not freeze when the water heater did. Yours is actually the first time I have heard of a water heater cracking. I am sure it has probably happened before but I just have not heard about it. These units are built in the frigid north so winterizing is a must and it usually works. It almost sounds as if the water heater was full of water, even though you had drained it. Would have had to have had a pretty good supply of water inside to freeze and crack the tank I would think.
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