Ready to Eternabond

[FeatherFam]

I am getting set to apply Eternabond to the front cap/roof seal. I am going to use 6" on this seam. I am also going to do the rear wall/roof seal.

I will use 4" around the refer, skylight, and fan seals. I will do the fan after I install a MaxAir later this spring/summer.

Has anyone used Eternabond down the side wall/roof seams, the length of the trailer on both sides? I am wondering how to do this with the gutter, awning, and slide out cover; they seem to be in the way of accessing the side wall/roof seams.

[SouthCo]

Curious to see the responses. I'm thinking about putting eternabond on my seams as well...

[Tunce the traveler]

this might also be my project for the spring/summer. At 6 years old it looks like it's ready for a refresh with Eternabond or maybe a better product called ProGuard. Do a search of ProGuard it's in here somewhere and it's all positive.

[RedHorse1]

Did the Eternabond this fall and am pleased with the results. I washed the roof, cleaned with mineral spirits and then washed it again. I did the back, sides and then the front seam. I had no problem with the sides. Put the tape outboard enough to cover the screws and metal sealing strip. No problems with gutter etc. I used 4" and the front seam took 2 passes, 6" would have done better, but like I said, pleased with the results.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by FeatherFam

I am getting set to apply Eternabond to the front cap/roof seal. I am going to use 6" on this seam. I am also going to do the rear wall/roof seal.....snip

To keep the wind from compromising the exposed leading edge of the Eternabond tape on the front cap/roof joint, run a bead of Dicor sealer along the leading edge of the tape. The front cap Eternabond is the most important, but I did the same to the rear roof/wall corner joint tape as well since I had the caulk gun in hand.

Front of my TT:



A couple of trim rail screw heads were starting to work their way through the OEM slide roof tape....., I removed the existing tape with a hair dryer and applied a fresh application of Eternabond along the slide roof edge joint as well:



My Eternabond project is over five years old and holding up well......, and no leaks!

Just a FYI: While your working around the roof check that your clearance light frames are installed correctly with the moisture "weep" openings facing downward (bottom of lens)...., they have been known to be installed facing upward! Same goes for the flood lights.

Bob

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

To keep the wind from compromising the exposed leading edge of the Eternabond tape on the front cap/roof joint, run a bead of Dicor sealer along the leading edge of the tape. The front cap Eternabond is the most important, but I did the same to the rear roof/wall joint tape as well since I had the caulk gun in hand.

Bob

When you did the rear roof/wall did you remove the trim piece with the vinyl insert that covers the screws or did you put the Eternabond over everything? Did you have any issues with the arched roofline?
Thanks,

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

When you did the rear roof/wall did you remove the trim piece with the vinyl insert that covers the screws or did you put the Eternabond over everything? Did you have any issues with the arched roofline?
Thanks,

No, I didn't apply the Eternabond along the entire rear roof/wall joint..., I only applied the Eternabond on the two rear corners of my roof/rear wall joint where water can pool due to the way Jayco built their TT's back in 2005.



The newer TT's have a more generous arched roof then older TT's, so it would be difficult to get a smooth Eternabond application along the rear wall at the roof arch on the newer TT's if one attempted to do so. Some TT's rear wall (cap)/roof joints lend themselves to an Eternabond application better then others do.

I elected not to apply the Eternbond along the entire roof/side wall joints and the roof/rear wall joint because I didn't want to seal the entire vinyl that covered the trim rails. There are pros and cons about sealing off the vinyl cover in these areas.

I wouldn't recommend removing the vinyl cover & trim rail if one decides to apply Eternabond in these areas.

Bob

[BigJohnD]

I love Eternabond, but opted for a different approach as seen in my mod thread. Eternabond is next to impossible to get off should you decide to change something, and I like to change stuff. All my seams are done with ProGuard coatings, and all the vinyl screw cover trim is sealed with black geocel Proflex sealant. Just my choice. No leaks, but I won't argue with the Eternabond approach at all.

[troutslayer]

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

Eternabond is next to impossible to get off should you decide to change something, and I like to change stuff.

I concur with this. If I had it to do over again I would not have put Eternabond on the seams of the bathroom skylight because they have a definite life cycle and will need to be replaced.