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Old 05-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
I use the BAL Chock n Lock - one for each side. Not only do they eliminate the front-to-rear rocking, they serve as wheel chocks.


Love mine!

Have you used the cheaper standard model? Are these better? Don't mind the price. Will they fit in between the axels on my Jayfeather 213 that seem pretty close together. Thanks
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Old 05-08-2015, 12:02 PM   #12
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Will they fit in between the axels on my Jayfeather 213 that seem pretty close together. Thanks
I found an online RV parts store that sells them and the specs say - Requires 2-1/2" clearance between tires. Opens to 10". They have the best price I've seen, but not sure what shipping costs are.

BAL Deluxe Trailer Tire Locking Chock 28005
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:53 PM   #13
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Not to be argumentative, but DO NOT use scissor jacks or bottle jacks to take pressure off the suspension before lowering the stabilizers. This topic has come up many times. The reason is this - the trailer frames are not designed for this type of upward pressure except for what is resting on the suspension. If you do so, it can twist the frame, causing all kinds of problems with the upper structure over time - seals, seams (especially fiberglass), and the crimped joints where roof meets sides. In the short run, doors may not close or latch properly. (The owner's manual warns against using jacks, except to change tires.)

The trailer comes with stabilizers, and not jacks, for that reason. Once your trailer is level, extend any slides, then lower the stabilizers, applying just a bit of down pressure at each corner, but not enough to affect leveling. That, along with the X-Chocks will make your trailer fairly stable, with no rocking.

Ok, I am a little confused, I put my camper at a seasonal spot and actually put it up on bricks on the 4 corners, I do leave a little pressure on the tongue jack, but there is no rock to the trailer, if i am reading your statement correctly does that mean I should not do this? Can you elaborate a little more please?
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:44 PM   #14
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Ok, I am a little confused, I put my camper at a seasonal spot and actually put it up on bricks on the 4 corners, I do leave a little pressure on the tongue jack, but there is no rock to the trailer, if i am reading your statement correctly does that mean I should not do this? Can you elaborate a little more please?
I assume you have the trailer sitting on the axles/tires as the main means of support and are using the bricks on the corners instead of the stabilizer jacks. If that is a correct assumption, you are perfectly OK, because the bricks do not exert any pressure against the frame, they are merely stabilizing it, which is what the stabilizer arms are meant for.

That said, you should probably check your tire pressure a few times each year to ensure that tires losing pressure don't allow the axles to move lower, which would create upward frame force on the corners by the bricks. This is along the same lines as the advice for not lowering your stabilizers when you park the trailer for the winter - for the same reasons. The tires will lose pressure and/or sink into a soft surface during freeze/thaw cycles, allowing pressure to be placed on the corners.

It's all in the design of the trailer frame. It is engineered to carry the load that is designed to be placed atop it - which is a downward force. The stabilizers place upward force, which counteracts the downward force. Fiberglass panels are not designed to flex top to bottom. When the forces try to do that, they will bow in or out somewhere - usually at seams, etc. Over time, the seams and the sealing can be compromised. Not a good thing.

A good illustration is this - take a look at an unloaded flatbed semi trailer. It is bowed up in the middle (front to rear). that's because it is designed to flatten out and become level when it is loaded. The same sort of strength theories applies to our travel trailers, but with less weight in mind.

I'm not a trailer designer, but I have taken the engineering courses that those designers must have, such as loads on beams, strength of welds and fasteners, the co-efficient of linear expansion (due to temperature changes), safety factors, etc. In this day and age, with cost in mind, everything is designed to certain specifications that fit the application - and no more. the days of manufacturer's designing in extra strength and durability to make things last longer are long gone. Jayco makes a good trailer, but they also have stockholders they are responsible to satisfy, as well. That's just business these days!

Probably more than you wanted to know!
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:49 PM   #15
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No that is good info, I do get the trailer level, then drop the nose a little, install the bricks and use the tongue jack to lift it past level and then place the front bricks at the level spot and then drop the front until it rest on the blocks. So this is good info to know as I am sure i am putting a decent amount of weight on the bricks and unloading some from the axles... I will get that reduced this weekend...
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Old 05-08-2015, 03:06 PM   #16
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No that is good info, I do get the trailer level, then drop the nose a little, install the bricks and use the tongue jack to lift it past level and then place the front bricks at the level spot and then drop the front until it rest on the blocks. So this is good info to know as I am sure i am putting a decent amount of weight on the bricks and unloading some from the axles... I will get that reduced this weekend...
A little weight on the bricks is OK. If you were using the stabilizers, they should be cranked down until they touch the ground, then enough force against the ground to just begin to move the trailer UP - but not enough to affect the leveling. Essentially, that prevents the trailer frame from flexing as you move around in the trailer. So as long as you aren't putting a great amount of trailer weight on the bricks, you won't hurt anything. Just keep your tires inflated properly and all will be well - and I hope you have a solid surface beneath the tires so they can't sink into the ground. (Keep them covered too, so they will last longer. The hardest thing on tires is just sitting without rolling. The sun and the elements adds to early deterioration.)
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:02 PM   #17
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Thank you everyone for suggestion. Problem is trailer has wide stance axles and dealer said no type of expanable chocks will work with this axle spread.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:09 PM   #18
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I added the scissor jacks to the middle of mine and made stabilizer bars for them... I have them right in front of the axles and the last time I was out I used the left one to tweak the level about a 1/4 inch before I ran the stabilizers down. I didn't remove much pressure from the suspension but all my doors and slides worked as they should. If going down the road and hitting bumps doesn't put more force on the frame and structure than this then the frame is too weak in my opinion. I do believe if you are going to tweak it this should be done as close to the axle as possible first then put stabilizers down. so I am using 6 points of contact not including the tongue jack and tires plus the x chocks and mine is rock solid. I do agree that you shouldn't use the scissors jacks to completely lift the unit off the axles but using them to make minor adjustments shouldn't be a big deal. I bought mine at harbor freight for 36.00 a piece and they were fairly straight forward to install.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:28 PM   #19
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If the trailer is rockin' don't come a knockin'!
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:31 PM   #20
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I found an online RV parts store that sells them and the specs say - Requires 2-1/2" clearance between tires. Opens to 10". They have the best price I've seen, but not sure what shipping costs are.



BAL Deluxe Trailer Tire Locking Chock 28005

Those are the old style, wonder why the cost more? Have you tried the new style?
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