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Old 05-03-2013, 12:06 PM   #1
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Roof Leak/Ceiling buckling--how to repair 2005 19H

This I am certain is related to the thread on A/C gaskets leaking, but the damage is done.

The ceiling of my trailer has started to "wrinkle" in various locations, and a couple seams have opened a bit. I am told by a local dealer that water has wicked from the A/C unit throughout the roof and the entire thing will need to be replaced. Ceiling feels soft if I push up on the wrinkled areas.

Roof looks ok, but a few depressions or low spots.

I pulled the lights/speakers to have a look and can see that the roof layer of the plywood/luane is damp.

Questions on how to best fix this. I understand the roof is a layer of styrofoam sandwiched/glued between these plywood/luane layers. I think therefore I can't just pull the luane down inside (it's also under walls/cupboards) and replace. It also looks like it has metal trusses inside the ceiling. RV service place says I have to replace the entire roof panel as 1 thing and the cost is scary!

Roof itself I have read enough to say I can pull off the existing membrane and see where exactly it's leaking and what areas of the luane need repair, re cover the entire roof with new luan if necessary and the put the old (if it's salvageable) or a new membrane down. Does this make sense to do?

If I don't pull off the existing membrane and just replace the A/C gasket will the wood ever dry out? I could live with the slighly wrinkled ceiling i guess.

Thoughts, comments or experienced words greatly appreciated. The rest of this trailer is immaculate.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:04 PM   #2
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Bummer but I feel ya. I have some "pumpkin-ing" or bumps forming on a few spots on my celing around the area from my AC leakage. Also noticed 2 small areas of where the white interior celing material starting to wrinkle and can push up on. the roof (exterior) is solid but just looks like the leak caused seperation on the interior portion. Ours isnt nearly bad enough to warrant a tear down and replace "yet" but I understand what your going through. I've ran through a few ideas how to fix it myself but havent seen the need just yet. It wont dry out unless you remove the water damaged panel and replace it after its dried. If your not too picky and want to save some $ I think you could get a replacement panel piece from your dealer $$ or get a nice thin wood sheet from Lowes or HD and paint, then cut and attatch and seam tape the cut edges to blend with the good un damaged celing. Now, if its gotten in above cabinets etc all thats got to be removed but at thats the case might as well replace from wall to wall. Long story short......CHECK YOUR AC GASKETS EVERYONE!!
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:13 PM   #3
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Starting peeling back the ceiling and not too happy. Does anyone know if you can order the full roof panel from jayco? Im think 5-6 guys could lift it into place
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:50 PM   #4
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Just thinking out loud.

I guess I would peel off the inside ceiling cover and the outside membrane.
I would allow everything to dry out and see what needed replaced.
I would replace outside sheeting with luan spanning trusses where necessary.
I would replace the inside luan sheeting in the same manner.

Any smaller areas of damage, I might repair with epoxy and sand smooth. They make an epoxy wood restorer.

I would then replace the roof with a new membrane or rubber roofing material.
You might even be able to apply a liquid rubber roofing over luan with proper primer. Check with rubber roof manufacturer.

I would apply a vinyl butt joint wall paper on the ceiling and trim out. You can even buy textured wall paper from Home Depot or Lowes.

Best of luck,
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:03 AM   #5
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Man either way it sounds like a lot of work, more than my "skill" level would let me do.

Better to take it to a dealer and have them do it.....
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:22 AM   #6
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More thinking out loud.

Maybe open some holes in the interior ceiling panels and use some cold air return grills to cover/trim them out? That would encourage air circulation for drying. The grill covers come in some fairly large sizes. Maybe big enough to hide some of the ceiling water marks? A dark color screen material glued or otherwise fastened on the inside of grill vents gives a more closed off appearance, but still allows air to move.

Boats use little fan powered ventilators (12 vdc). One mounted in the inside ceiling panel would help air circulation in the chamber a bunch if coupled with grill vent openings. The pancake fans used in computers are also 12 vdc. They can be salvaged and installed above the ceiling to help to move the air.

I'm working with some water problems on our older trailer. So far it seems we may be winning the battle, but time will tell. Good luck.

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Old 05-07-2013, 09:02 AM   #7
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Thanks for the thoughts folks.
Further info... as I tear this apart a bit to further investigate... the ceiling is plywood, styrofoam plywood all completely glued together with Aluminum joists... there is no air cavity in the ceiling for air to pass through, and no wood joists to screw any new Luane/plywood into. Perhaps I could use self tapping screws and go into the Aluminum? Peeling the plywood off the ceiling is going to be a challenge it is so well glued... using a long handled scraper to try and get in there to minimize the damage to the styrofoam. I haven't taken off the membrane yet to see how far the damage is up top.

As for taking to the dealer... I think it will be 4-5K on a trailer worth maybe 9K... and I was looking to sell it and upgrade this year....

I really think if I could get a new roof panel it's the easiest fix (definitely not the cheapest!)... it appears to be just screwed down from above into the walls and it's one big piece.. guessing it can't weight more than a couple hundred pounds. I already have all the cabinets out. It's certainly the best way to do it.

I left a message at the Jayco parts line and sent an email off to Jayco to see what they suggest.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Yellzee View Post
Thanks for the thoughts folks.
Further info... as I tear this apart a bit to further investigate... the ceiling is plywood, styrofoam plywood all completely glued together with Aluminum joists... there is no air cavity in the ceiling for air to pass through, and no wood joists to screw any new Luane/plywood into. ...
Sorry for the assumption that there was an air space. I've noticed newer trailers have speakers mounted to the ceiling so I ass-u-me'd there was some space above.

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As for taking to the dealer... I think it will be 4-5K on a trailer worth maybe 9K... and I was looking to sell it and upgrade this year....
I'm invested in an older 23B with water issues. I'm new to the travel trailer forums. One trend that I have noticed is how quickly other posters are willing to tell people to go to the dealer or how the trailer they have water issues with is now scrap. It's just not very helpful information to someone trying to make the best of the situation they are in.

You put it well with your numbers. Going to a dealer for major repair on an older trailer is hardly ever a good option. Someone with DIY skills may be able to make it work for them, but not by taking it to a dealer. Sorry to go on.

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I really think if I could get a new roof panel it's the easiest fix (definitely not the cheapest!)... it appears to be just screwed down from above into the walls and it's one big piece.. guessing it can't weight more than a couple hundred pounds. I already have all the cabinets out. It's certainly the best way to do it.

...
I've seen videos that show the assembly of travel trailers. I know that repairs are much different than new builds, but it may be worth searching for a few assembly video links.

Keep us posted with more of your descriptions and some pictures. I know that I would appreciate the information. Good luck on your repairs. vic
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #9
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I will try to post some pics of tonights destruction here Vic. Pulled off alot of the roof membrane and man it is rotten. Where it isnt rotten the felt backing is very hard to pull off the luane. I propped up some support inside the trailer to help whats left of the roof while i was up there but it still seems ready to collapse. I was walking on a piece of 1/2 inch plywood i laid down to help spread the weight.
I still think an entirely new roof panel is the way to go if i can get it. I could winch it up to the rafters in the barn, back the trailer under it and lower it down. I did not get to the edges to see how the roof panel is actually fastened to the walls.

I did actually watch a few videos and it looked like when the inside was done they set the roof on. I couldn't find one that actually showed them attach it unfortunately.

Gave Jayco parts my vin tonight and hope to hear from them tomorrowClick image for larger version

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ID:	7793 about possibility of getting the new roof. (Shipping to canada a 19x 8 panel might be as much as the panel!)
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:12 PM   #10
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:15 PM   #11
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First picture was the ceiling and the post with 2 pics the roof
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:15 AM   #12
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Very unhelpful call from Jayco customer service... User issue for not maintaining the a/c gasket. Call a dealer and get a price on a new roof. Have a nice day!
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:35 PM   #13
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Great response. Well, looks as if your almost 1/2 way there might aswell keep going. Have you decided how or what your going to use to replace the panels after drying out?
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:44 PM   #14
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Got a decent price at 850 for a new roof but thats plus 500 shipping and 6-8 wk delivery. So i think i will try to repair. Now have most of the sealing goop off all joints and roof openings. What a job. Wish i hadnt had the seams resealed last fall.

I am pretty sure i am going to take the roof off and try to repair on the ground where it is easier to access. I can now push up on the roof and lift it off the wall in the middle area of the trailer. I will pull off all the rotten plywood which is most of the upper and maybe half the lower. If the styrofoam is too badly damaged i will have to find some the same thickness to replace as it needs to be glued to both layers of plywood. Stay tuned!
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:17 AM   #15
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This is quite a project. If you live in the U.S.A. Order a new roof! I have the roof off and in my garage for repair. Stripping the old wood off and trying to record where the wiring runs and the metal plate that are under the plywood for extra support for kitchen cupboards, etc is a job in itself. Suspect i have over 500$ in material between Luane, ceiling panels, styrofoam, glue, etc. had to pull panelling off bathroom walls as they did have screws up into the roof. Fridge
Out to get at screws in that area as well. Hope to get it together and back on the trailer this weekend.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:16 AM   #16
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The luan/foam/luan construction is very strong, stiff, and light... until it gets wet. Looks like you're doing a good job to fix quite a mess.

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Got a decent price at 850 for a new roof but thats plus 500 shipping and 6-8 wk delivery.
Here's some questions, just in case I ever need to repair roof water damage: Was this for the complete roof panel? Sized for your trailer? With or without cutouts for the vents, ac, etc? What company would sell the panel - Jayco? I wonder if the new panel might be worth driving to pick it up with a borrowed truck.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:21 AM   #17
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That was from jayco factory direct. It was a full roof to fit my trailer. Had to give serial #. It even had the wiring run in it i think. I would still have had to buy and install new epdm roof membrane.

I would recommend going to pick up if you can trailer something approx 8'x 14'.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:03 PM   #18
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Update on this project. I havent had the time to work on it so good to get back at it. Attached should be a pic of the 2nd ceiling panel being held down by some convenient weights i had in the garage while the glue dries. It was the hardest one with the most wiring and cutouts to work with. One panel a night mon and tues and i will be ready to drop the roof back on. Only issue im having is glue under the wiring conduit when i put the luane on is holding them up higher than the styrofoam in a few places. Using pl300 for the wood to styrofoam and pl premium on the aluminum frame and wiring conduits. Pile of work!!
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:24 PM   #19
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Attached should be a pic of the 2nd ceiling panel being held down by some convenient weights i had in the garage while the glue dries.
LOLZ....interesting combination of weights!....nice work...
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:53 PM   #20
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The roof and ceiling were both so rotten that i couldnt see how i could pull just the top layer off. Half the syrofoam and in places even the ceiling was pulling off with the roof panels. It seemed easier to pull it off and do a rebuild than mess with it up on the trailer.
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