RV Plug Replacement

[dalenoel]

I am having my plug on the TT electrical cord separating from the cord itself. Originally they look molded together and now the outer cover is coming back and exposing insulated wires.

I do not want to or think I need to replace the entire cord or make an extension cord of my existing one. I also do not want to put in the conversion kit to make it a twist-lock cord for a 30 amp trailer.

Both of these options get costly when compared to the plug replacement.

My question is to the type of replacement plug.

My first choice is the Camco 55242 plug end because the handle will allow DW to handle the cord easier. A review on Amazon tells that this plug will not fit through the standard cord hatch like the JR 370-2-A.


This will require a change to the hatch and cutting into the TT sidewall to put in a hatch like JR E7132-A. I’m not keen on cutting the sidewall and the total cost will be around $60 for both parts with time for the remodel.


Second is using a Camco 55132 replacement plug that will fit in the existing hatch but I can’t tell if this one is waterproof. Cost of the plug is $10-15 and I can seal the cord/plug interface with silicone so it will be waterproof.

I know this is the least costly method but and asking if there is a better plug end available.

[Terry]

I went through a similar experience. My plug melted from a bad pedestal. First I looked at the Camco because I like the handle - but like you realized it would not fit in the hole.

I searched around ordered this one -- Leviton Plug -- thinking it would fit, but it did not.

In the end I picked up the same plug (Camco 55132) at Lowes. Nope it is not waterproof at all, but since just about every pedestal box I have found is waterproof I have not been concerned.

About the only way to get a fully waterproof end is to pick up a 30 amp extension cord, cut off the female end, and hard wire it back into your load center. That is probably the most ideal method, but also the most expensive and labor intensive method.

[dalenoel]

Thanks for the info. It looks like I'll have to pick up a replacment and use silicone to seal it. I had someone else suggest using Super Glue to seal the edges but that is not to my liking since I'll not be able to take it back apart to check connections after a season of use. Terminals and connections do loosen with changes in heat expansion.

I didn't know that Lowes had the part. The cost from Amazon is $8.99 but I need $25 to get free shipping and it is $10.68 with shipping $20.40 from Tweetys.

Lowes sound like the best.

Thanks again.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by dalenoel

I am having my plug on the TT electrical cord separating from the cord itself.....snip

Mine is doing a the same thing. I've carried a spare 30amp plug-end in my TT for years (just in case), but plan to install it this spring.

Guess I'll have to pick-up another spare

Bob

[dalenoel]

I just solved the entire problem. Found an Ebay seller that has a 36 ft 30amp new pigtail and shipping is free. Total cost is $32.00.

RusticEagle, it is being shipped UPS from Saginaw so is also a local business to both of us.

I'll let you know how it turns out. The old cord will be saved and maybe be turned into an extension cord. I already have a 50ft extension but many time don't need the total length. This may also solve that problem.

I now have a solution that will not contribute to shocks from plugging in while standing in water at a CG.

Thanks for the help from everyone.

[Rustic Eagle]

Dale,

Look forward to your feedback on what you think of the product.

Bob

[jbhsv04]

The cord on my rig was shot as well. I opted to go to wally world and buy a 25' extension cord and cut the female end off and wired it in the inside compartment. I think the cord was ~$40. Works great!

[mcfarmall]

Shore power inlet is the only way to go. Costs a few bucks ($100) but I smile every time I use it-no more tangled cords. Check mine out on the mods page.

[dalenoel]

New cord arrived today, correct length, correct gage, correct connector, within 2 days for only $32.00.

When the cover comes off the Eagle I'll replace the cord. Thanks for the comments as it helped the thought process and I'm glad I did not just replace the plug.

I will however use the old cord and make it into an extension for the TT.

[Rustic Eagle]

Dale,

With the cord did you get some more info on the manufacture, and is Ebay the only purchase source? I like the fact that it's 36ft long.

Thanks,

Bob

[dalenoel]

Bob,

The cord actually ships from Elkhart and Lavanture Products. There are no returns.

Ebay page.

Tag on the cord is 09516 30A 36FT

UL Label C US Listed POWER SUPPLY CORD FOR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE

Molded on the wire is 'E54864 (UL) 10 AGW (5.26mm2) 3/C STW 600v -- FOR RECREATIONAL VEHICLE USE : 30 AMPERES - - CSA LL39753 STWV 60'C FT1'

At least that is a good as I can read the molded info on the cord. There is no into molded into the plug end.

Seems very flexible and molded well.

Dale

[Topflight]

Thanks for the info. I just ordered one for our Pop-up.

[Rustic Eagle]

Dale,

Thanks for the info, have one on order as well.

My spare 30amp plug-end will remain a spare

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Dale,

My new 30amp 36ft long power cord came in today, looks good. Will have to wait until spring to install then see if the additional length will coil into the existing holding area .... may have to modify a little (no big deal).

Bob

[Crabman]

Wow, that`s a good price on a 36' 10/3 RV cord. Since copper went sky high so did the price of all copper wiring, from Romex to extension cords.

[dalenoel]

Bob,

Looked into the back of the 322FKS and the box for the cord is stapled very, very well. Looks like 1/2in plywood and will not be easy to take the top of the box off. On one side the water pump is mounted so I'll need to work over top that item. The water fill lines also go over this box.

I'm going to need to extend the rear slide to get enough room for my large body into a small space, in the back closet behind the mirrors, and work on it.

Next is to predrill the holes for screws to put the lid back on the box and find a rubber gasket to use since all of the water is above and around this box. (The outside shower is right near it also.)

Spring, early April, project for sure. First campout is third week of March when we pick up a new (used) unit for a friend and install his Hensley. They want to go local right away so Bishop Lake is the spot where we can run home to get what gets forgotten.

The cord does look good and I'm glad for the purchase.

Dale

[RoyBraddy]

I was able to start squeezing real hard a few feet back from the cable end and finally walked the outer shield back up inside the molded connector. then I convered all of that area with some good sealent that has now harden up some. Seems to be working for the time being... At lease I dont have individual wires showing anymore. If I could have gotten the plug off without damage I would have installed some heat shrink after pushing the outer rubber back up inside the connector.

I suppose some folks just cut the end off and install a new plug but that has problems as well. Maybe just go get another 25-30 foot long new molded cable and be done with it???? I think I saw replacement 30AMP cables at Walmart the other day.

[Wyotraveler]

It is expensive doing the mod conversion. However, it keeps the mice out of the hole and the cord is no long being damaged by being pulled out and pushed in. Plus the plug doesn't get damaged because that is the easiest thing to hang on to when I pull it out from that mouse hole. I guess every one calls it a mouse hole because the mice love to run up the cord and make nests inside. Especially if you leave it plugged in when your TT is stored.