Sail switch

Duke4857 · 06-02-2023, 09:55 PM

We have a Atwood furnace in our 2016 24RKS. I need a new sailswitch. The switch is no longer available or manufactured. I have not been able to find something that will work. I have had the furnace in/out testing it so many times I could do it in my sleep. Any ideas on how to find a replacement? Old sailswitch, model number, and serial number.

ARoamer · 06-03-2023, 04:28 AM

The sail switch isn't really anything special other than the arm that activates it. Look for a switch with the same ratings, and with some tinkering, you may be able to swap your arm to it. Other ideas, possibly silver solder your arm end on it, or rough both up good with sandpaper, clean and JB weld {epoxy} the end on.
Relatively cheap on Amzn.
https://www.amazon.com/36680-Replace...11&sr=8-2&th=1
OR a 2 pack-
https://www.amazon.com/Dreyoo-Replac...11&sr=8-6&th=1

stinger608 · 06-03-2023, 08:09 AM

Not sure what model of Dometic/Atwood furnace you have, but I recently had to replace the sail switch in our 2019 TT.

Our furnace is a Dometic DFMD25 series.

These are what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Although, it ended up being the control board.

Old and soft · 06-03-2023, 08:49 AM

Looks like something to be found in a Grainger catalog.

stinger608 · 06-03-2023, 09:05 AM

If you look at the link I provided, you'll see it's compatible with your AFMD25121 furnace as well.

Them should work.

Duke4857 · 06-03-2023, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stinger608

If you look at the link I provided, you'll see it's compatible with your AFMD25121 furnace as well.

Them should work.

I tried that one, thank you

RPR · 06-05-2023, 09:14 AM

The sail part on some of the switches can not be swapped do to the way it is attached to the switch. One person in a post a few weeks ago suggested modifying the shape of the sail of a different switch so it looks like existing one. Adding material or subtracting material. As already posted switches are this same just shape of sail.

Duke4857 · 06-08-2023, 08:35 AM

The sail switch that is factory still turns on/off. I checked it with a multimeter. I agree with you the trouble is in the sail itself. Maybe a piece of tape on the sail will make the switch activate. What does all think?

Duke4857 · 06-08-2023, 08:36 AM

How could I check the motor RPM to see if that is the trouble.

RPR · 06-08-2023, 09:54 AM

Checking and switch is turning on and off. Is this with switch installed? I know some RV’s due to location of heater this is hard to check. If you can jump out the switch and see if unit stays on. If it does then low air flow or switch is going bad to where it is taking more than normal air pressure to turn it on.

Duke4857 · 06-09-2023, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RPR

Checking and switch is turning on and off. Is this with switch installed? I know some RV’s due to location of heater this is hard to check. If you can jump out the switch and see if unit stays on. If it does then low air flow or switch is going bad to where it is taking more than normal air pressure to turn it on.

I see your point. I cannot check it installed. I just tested it to see if it turns on and off. I do not have the ability to run the furnace on the bench. Since I can't find a new sailswitch I guess I could try to build something to bench test the furnace. It wouldn't take much to put something together. I bet I have all the parts to do it.

mini4mw · 06-09-2023, 01:38 PM

you could check the sail with a multimeter, just set to Ohms. With the lever up it should be one way, with it pushed down the other - those ways being no resistance ( 0-zero) and OL - over limit, no connectivity, 100% resistance. If you connect the meter to both wires and it stays either 0 or OL when you press it down and release to flip the switch, the switch is broken. If it changes between those two values, it should be fine.

Other things possibly, the bar is bent or not pushed enough to flip the switch, lose or rusted connections, maybe a control board. I do see sail switches failing all the time for some reason though. Maybe its just dirty and needs to be cleaned and put back in (if the switch works).

Duke4857 · 06-09-2023, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mini4mw

you could check the sail with a multimeter, just set to Ohms. With the lever up it should be one way, with it pushed down the other - those ways being no resistance ( 0-zero) and OL - over limit, no connectivity, 100% resistance. If you connect the meter to both wires and it stays either 0 or OL when you press it down and release to flip the switch, the switch is broken. If it changes between those two values, it should be fine.

Other things possibly, the bar is bent or not pushed enough to flip the switch, lose or rusted connections, maybe a control board. I do see sail switches failing all the time for some reason though. Maybe its just dirty and needs to be cleaned and put back in (if the switch works).

Thank you, that is how I tested the switch when I had it out. All worked fine then.

Parrott · 06-09-2023, 02:13 PM

Install the switch and apply 12 volts directly to the motor with your ohm meter on the switch.

Parrott · 06-09-2023, 02:17 PM

What were the symptoms causing you to think sail switch?

Myrvworks.com has lots of videos on repairing.

mini4mw · 06-09-2023, 02:47 PM

Sounds like the switch is fine then and Parrot has the right idea.. what is the problem you are having?

ARoamer · 06-09-2023, 04:56 PM

For the record, my sail switch "failed" but tested good when removed. The lever that operates the switch button was not fully depressing it when installed. I trimmed a bit of plastic and bent the lever arm slightly with a pair of needle nose pliers to get it to work properly.

Phoenix PAL · 06-12-2023, 08:36 PM

Seems most people go through Atwood furnace growing pains. I did.
Actually, mine did the same as yours. I put more of a bend to capture more air and it's worked great for years now. Not too much of a bend, or the fan will rub.

While I was at it, I removed the un-seeable pcb mounted fault code red led and wired it out to where I could see it. I did the same with the on/off reset switch.

Duke4857 · 06-13-2023, 04:55 AM

There is no access to the switch with it installed in the TT. I have to build a way to bench to test it out of the RV.

I will try all ideas when I can build a bench test station.
Please keep ideas coming.

Phoenix PAL · 06-13-2023, 12:44 PM

Here's my original post on my sail switch fix and fault code LED mod with pics.

Since you've set up a test bench, it sounds like you can handle moving the LED out to a visible location, along with the reset switch.

In my TT the furnace is under the couch, the LED and circuit board are inside the unit, facing the wall!

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

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