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Old 01-02-2019, 10:54 PM   #1
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Sail switch

For the life of me I can’t keep the heater running d/t the sail switch. I pull it out and there may be a cat hair or nothing. I’m pulling it out now 2-3 times a day. I’m not doing anything to it. Just pull it out, run the heater, turns on fine, reinstall, it then shuts down after a few cycles. I can’t bypass it and it’s driving me nuts.
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:13 AM   #2
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Replace it.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:10 AM   #3
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Replace it.
X2. Had to replace that switch on my 2015 Greyhawk last year.
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:06 AM   #4
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Replace it.
I don’t see why. The power in and out is on point and the switch works fine manually. It’s when it’s installed it’s acting up.
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:09 AM   #5
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I don’t see why. The power in and out is on point and the switch works fine manually. It’s when it’s installed it’s acting up.
Sometimes that's called "The nature of the beast"
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:16 AM   #6
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I don’t see why. The power in and out is on point and the switch works fine manually. It’s when it’s installed it’s acting up.
The contacts are intermittent. Put a meter on it and measure the resistance. Cycle it a bunch of times and you'll see that occasionally the resistance will be more than it should be. The combined resistance of your meter leads and switch should only be few tenths of an ohm.
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:27 AM   #7
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There's also the possibility that you have a true air flow problem. The air flow on my Greyhawk is marginal and I've had to reshape some flattened out parts of the ductwork. Even then the flow is marginal as my furnace will cycle from overheating after it's been running for a while. Also when I replaced the sail switch, it took some tweaking to get it to work so that also tells me the flow is marginal.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:24 AM   #8
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There's also the possibility that you have a true air flow problem. The air flow on my Greyhawk is marginal and I've had to reshape some flattened out parts of the ductwork. Even then the flow is marginal as my furnace will cycle from overheating after it's been running for a while. Also when I replaced the sail switch, it took some tweaking to get it to work so that also tells me the flow is marginal.
What do you mean? I have 1 duct coming off the unit and one rectangle opening on the bottom of the unit. When I power the unit up and look into the blower I see the switch open and close fine with air blowing on it.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:25 AM   #9
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I can’t replace the sail switch, no one has one anywhere. At least not the part number I need.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:34 AM   #10
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There was a foot long metal ducting connecting the air outlet in the living area. It had been mashed down a bit.
Ordered 36134 Atwood Hydro Flame Sail Switch from Amazon for $20. I had to tweak it a bit to make it work. The switch itself had failed. The air paddle would move the arm, but the switch did not make continuity when closed.
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:23 AM   #11
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There was a foot long metal ducting connecting the air outlet in the living area. It had been mashed down a bit.
Ordered 36134 Atwood Hydro Flame Sail Switch from Amazon for $20. I had to tweak it a bit to make it work. The switch itself had failed. The air paddle would move the arm, but the switch did not make continuity when closed.
Hmm. O well now! I ordered another switch as I’m tired of hitting it, removing it, doing whatever to get the furnace to kick on. But now the on off switch is failing as the thermostat will or won’t light up and soon after the circuit board has now failed. The furnace won’t do anything but click real fast out of a black box on the board and then nothing. The thermostat is lighting up but there’s also no fail sequence blinking lights on the board. It lights up once when the box is clicking, then it’s off. Dealers gonna take it in tomorrow. Furnace is 7 months old now 3 parts need replaced.
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:26 AM   #12
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No explanation of why the sail switch chooses to be a bad actor other than they have attitude. Order 2, put one in the furnace and the other in your spare parts kit. Problem won’t come back.
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Old 01-17-2019, 10:45 AM   #13
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At any rate, let us know what the dealer finds so we can add it to our repertoire of things to know.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:34 AM   #14
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I took the furnace to the dealer. They said zero issues. It’s been working fine! No sail switch problems, no low voltage no/off switch issues, no rapid clicking of the circuit board! WTF?!
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:35 AM   #15
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Something must be wrong with the wiring then. It used DC quick connectors. I’m going to get normal house wire connectors and really make sure the connections good. After that idk what to do.
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