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01-02-2019, 10:54 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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Sail switch
For the life of me I can’t keep the heater running d/t the sail switch. I pull it out and there may be a cat hair or nothing. I’m pulling it out now 2-3 times a day. I’m not doing anything to it. Just pull it out, run the heater, turns on fine, reinstall, it then shuts down after a few cycles. I can’t bypass it and it’s driving me nuts.
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01-03-2019, 06:13 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,753
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Replace it.
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01-03-2019, 08:10 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Replace it.
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X2. Had to replace that switch on my 2015 Greyhawk last year.
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Don
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01-03-2019, 09:06 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Replace it.
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I don’t see why. The power in and out is on point and the switch works fine manually. It’s when it’s installed it’s acting up.
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01-03-2019, 09:09 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Charles Town
Posts: 469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit
I don’t see why. The power in and out is on point and the switch works fine manually. It’s when it’s installed it’s acting up.
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Sometimes that's called "The nature of the beast"
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01-03-2019, 09:16 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit
I don’t see why. The power in and out is on point and the switch works fine manually. It’s when it’s installed it’s acting up.
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The contacts are intermittent. Put a meter on it and measure the resistance. Cycle it a bunch of times and you'll see that occasionally the resistance will be more than it should be. The combined resistance of your meter leads and switch should only be few tenths of an ohm.
__________________
Don
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01-03-2019, 09:27 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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There's also the possibility that you have a true air flow problem. The air flow on my Greyhawk is marginal and I've had to reshape some flattened out parts of the ductwork. Even then the flow is marginal as my furnace will cycle from overheating after it's been running for a while. Also when I replaced the sail switch, it took some tweaking to get it to work so that also tells me the flow is marginal.
__________________
Don
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01-17-2019, 09:24 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4
There's also the possibility that you have a true air flow problem. The air flow on my Greyhawk is marginal and I've had to reshape some flattened out parts of the ductwork. Even then the flow is marginal as my furnace will cycle from overheating after it's been running for a while. Also when I replaced the sail switch, it took some tweaking to get it to work so that also tells me the flow is marginal.
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What do you mean? I have 1 duct coming off the unit and one rectangle opening on the bottom of the unit. When I power the unit up and look into the blower I see the switch open and close fine with air blowing on it.
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01-17-2019, 09:25 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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I can’t replace the sail switch, no one has one anywhere. At least not the part number I need.
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01-17-2019, 09:34 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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There was a foot long metal ducting connecting the air outlet in the living area. It had been mashed down a bit.
Ordered 36134 Atwood Hydro Flame Sail Switch from Amazon for $20. I had to tweak it a bit to make it work. The switch itself had failed. The air paddle would move the arm, but the switch did not make continuity when closed.
__________________
Don
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01-17-2019, 10:23 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4
There was a foot long metal ducting connecting the air outlet in the living area. It had been mashed down a bit.
Ordered 36134 Atwood Hydro Flame Sail Switch from Amazon for $20. I had to tweak it a bit to make it work. The switch itself had failed. The air paddle would move the arm, but the switch did not make continuity when closed.
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Hmm. O well now! I ordered another switch as I’m tired of hitting it, removing it, doing whatever to get the furnace to kick on. But now the on off switch is failing as the thermostat will or won’t light up and soon after the circuit board has now failed. The furnace won’t do anything but click real fast out of a black box on the board and then nothing. The thermostat is lighting up but there’s also no fail sequence blinking lights on the board. It lights up once when the box is clicking, then it’s off. Dealers gonna take it in tomorrow. Furnace is 7 months old now 3 parts need replaced.
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01-17-2019, 10:26 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Black River Falls, Wi
Posts: 1,154
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No explanation of why the sail switch chooses to be a bad actor other than they have attitude. Order 2, put one in the furnace and the other in your spare parts kit. Problem won’t come back.
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01-17-2019, 10:45 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 2,064
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At any rate, let us know what the dealer finds so we can add it to our repertoire of things to know.
__________________
Don
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01-19-2019, 06:34 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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I took the furnace to the dealer. They said zero issues. It’s been working fine! No sail switch problems, no low voltage no/off switch issues, no rapid clicking of the circuit board! WTF?!
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01-19-2019, 06:35 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Columbus
Posts: 45
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Something must be wrong with the wiring then. It used DC quick connectors. I’m going to get normal house wire connectors and really make sure the connections good. After that idk what to do.
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