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Old 07-11-2015, 08:49 PM   #1
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Sheer pin replacement on stabilizers

A few weeks ago the sheer pin sheered off on our TT stabilizer where the coupler connects the gear to the the electric motor. Any suggestions on how to easily replace the sheer pin? It is difficult to get the motor drive to line up so I can drive it in. Do I have to take the stabilizer off?

Any advice?
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:55 PM   #2
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You can bump the motor and the shaft will turn inside until the holes line up. I use a screw and self locking nut to replace the roll pin.
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
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I use a screw and self locking nut to replace the roll pin.
DONT DO THAT!!! it is called a shear pin for a reason.. better to break that pin then the whole assembly.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:06 PM   #4
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DONT DO THAT!!! it is called a shear pin for a reason.. better to break that pin then the whole assembly.[/QUOTE]

x2 The pins are supposed to break.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:06 PM   #5
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Whats the difference shear pin or bolt? You never pulled a hay baler with a fist full of 1/4x20 bolts under the tractor seat to replace broke shears. Use a 5 grade bolt and if your really worried use brass. The shears made to break before the equipment and you'll find them called shear pins and shear bolts. Do a web search on shear pin vs screw, lots of info.

Both sides of my prior 5th had bolts on the front landing gear from the factory, motor to shaft, that fell out when the nuts came off. I replaced them with the self locking nuts and never had another problem
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:20 PM   #6
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Whats the difference shear pin or bolt? You never pulled a hay baler with a fist full of 1/4x20 bolts under the tractor seat to replace broke shears. Use a 5 grade bolt and if your really worried use brass. The shears made to break before the equipment and you'll find them called shear pins and shear bolts. Do a web search on shear pin vs screw, lots of info.
Grade five is still a hard bolt. Not as hard hard as grade 8 but a whole lot harder then hardware grade bolts. I'm assuming that they are talking about friction drive pins which are hollow pins and not as hard as even hardware grade bolts. You clearly need to go back with a pin that has the same shear capacity as what the manufacturer recommends. You use something harder and chances are good some other component is going to fail instead of the shear pin over time.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:38 PM   #7
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http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...%203.14.08.pdf

Part #19 1/4 inch screw part #20 1/4 inch nut
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edd505 View Post
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...%203.14.08.pdf

Part #19 1/4 inch screw part #20 1/4 inch nut
X2
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:55 AM   #9
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A fairly good emergency substitute for most shear pins of near the same size is a piece of old car radio antenna. The junk yard usually has a couple of dozen and the stainless steel ones are usually just as soft as the original pin.
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