Quote:
Originally Posted by TCNashville
Bill, what problem were you having with your pump?
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Last week I screwed up, and thinking I flipped the water heater Electric switch on, I'd actually turned on the water pump. The intake line valve between the pump and the fresh water tank was closed, and it ran that way for 15 or 20 minutes.
Since it's getting cold and snowy here, I filled my fresh water tanks so I could put the hose away. When I started using the pump, it acted like there was a lot of air still in the plumbing. It wouldn't turn on until the flow was just a trickle, then would run for an extended time with a knocking sound just before it shut off.
The tech just gave me some part numbers for the valve assembly and the check valve.
I disassembled the pump earlier today to check it out. My guess was that it was pulling so hard against the closed intake side it might have created a hole in the diaphragm, or caused some other leak in the wet side of the pump.
I found a large "O" ring that sealed the valve assembly, and guessed that it was possible that the vacuum might have created a leak past the sealing surface.
I removed the "O" ring, gave it light coat of silicone plumbers' grease and put it back together.
Dang thing is working perfectly now.
It cycles on and off as it should, and it's not acting like the check valve is bad like it has for the past year. Ever since last fall the pump would cycle on every half hour or so because the system was losing pressure. Thought it was the check valve, but it could have been leaking past that "O" ring all that time.
Earlier today I pressurized the system then shut off the pump for a few hours. When I turned the pump back on it didn't run. It lost no pressure.
I was close to going to Camping World and buying an overpriced replacement pump earlier today. Glad I was able to fix it!
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