"Soft" Floor around toilet

[Girth]

Another stray off topic.....

I'm thinking many steps ahead here, but I am NOT a fan of the luan paneling in the "shower". Corners are "sealed" with the standard rubber trim used at every other panel joint. Tub was of course sealed, a LOT, but I don't trust the corner joints in the luan paneling. Has anyone done something like fiberglass paneling, maybe over the luan?

I could lay up the fiberglass myself, but the time/effort involved to get it looking decent, I figure there has to be a product out there that would work and save that time/effort.

[Quick Step]

"Seems to be drying out OK, but I can still feel some dampness in the flooring supports. Cool to the touch, so there is still way too much moisture in there for me to feel comfortable covering it up anytime soon. Maybe the heater will help, but I'm thinking it might be at least a week or two"

Be patient and keep the fan and maybe some Damp Rid on it because with that much moisture damage it will take some time to dry. After it dries completely and if there is no wood rot use Wood Hardener on the joists but it has to be completely dry for it to work and to keep the wood from further deteriorating

[robert9999]

I would get an estimate for repair & start legal action right away. These things take time, you can always drop the case if you want.

[Girth]

Originally Posted by Quick Step

Be patient and keep the fan and maybe some Damp Rid on it because with that much moisture damage it will take some time to dry. After it dries completely and if there is no wood rot use Wood Hardener on the joists but it has to be completely dry for it to work and to keep the wood from further deteriorating

Do you have a favorite wood hardener? I was looking at a Minwax product (trusted name) but see PC-Petrifier is a popular one too. I'm gonna want to seal the cut edges of the new decking too I think.

Anyone have a preference between insulation batting vs. the foam board type? I was browsing Home Depot today. I plan on adding bracing underneath any unsupported cut lines/joints, and probably another piece and longer bolts at the exterior wall, where the awning bolts in. A couple lag bolts into a chinsy stapled together 2x2 just doesn't see to be sufficient to me...… especially after seeing the other guy who just had his rot and rip out. I'm gonna be in there, may as well make things better than they were. Stocked up on screws and glue, she's gonna be SOLID.

[Girth]

Another day in the saga of "Why did they build it like that". Nothing much new. Removed the square drive deck screws that used to hold the old decking down, a BUNCH of long staples, and pulled some more damp insulation remnants from little nooks and crannies. The didn't use too many screws to securing the decking, their construction adhesive didn't bond well in many places, and for some odd reason, they apparently like to drive big staples in clusters. There'd be four of five of those damn things, driven on top of each other, every 3-4ft or so. Seems like an odd and ineffective way to secure the floor deck.

They also used 1/4in lag bolts to secure the toilet flange? HOW they drove them into the flange meant for countersunk screws, I have no idea. I had to back them out with a small crescent wrench, until I could get a socket to grab them.

In other wonderful news, while walking in and out, I noticed a "squish" in the flooring at the entrance door. Not soft like the bathroom floor was, but the vinyl was moving/not adhered. I knew what that meant. Yep, a damp spot by the door. Not BAD, at least not like the back, thankfully. Different "mildew" on top of the OSB though. Green, more like moss/algae. I got some apparently wicked toxic "Mold Armor" spray from Home Depot. A long list of nasty sounding chemicals, all ending in Ammonium Chloride. lol The bottle claims the stuff even kills HIV, and lists uses as sewage spill cleanup etc. Good thing I have a respirator, and keep a good stock of disposable gloves, etc.

OH... and a handy tool to have. One of those vibratory saws. Dremel makes one, mine is a Rockwell. Not as fast as a small circular saw, but a bit more precise for areas you don't want to cause damage.

[ALJO]

-Different "mildew" on top of the OSB though. Green, more like moss/algae.-


Means the water intrusion is an outside source.

[Girth]

Originally Posted by ALJO

-Different "mildew" on top of the OSB though. Green, more like moss/algae.-


Means the water intrusion is an outside source.

Kinda what I figured. Probably got past the door frame there, or from the aluminum transition strip. Either way, all that is coming out and getting repaired, resealed, etc.

I guess that's the one good thing out of all this. The little trailer is getting a serious going through. All the hidden faults are being revealed and remedied.

[Girth]

Weekly update for those following.... nothing groundbreaking to report. Still waiting for all the "lumber" in the back to dry to my satisfaction. Heater and fan are running, bucket-o-desiccant back there.... waiting.

With a hankering for something to DO, besides shop for materials/try to decide what I want to use, I started investigating the area at the entrance door. I'm thinking it's had a small leak for quite some time. I cut out a section of floor to investigate further, and do start the drying process for what I was sure was another wet area. Green on top, green on the bottom of the OSB there, and green IN the OSB in little spots. (Could see it on the cut edges) Damp insulation underneath, though not on the level of what I found in the back of the TT. Fortunately it seems to be a localize area. Looks like I may have to pull the door frame out though, and that's probably not a bad idea anyways, as it'd be a great time to replace what I'm certain is a substandard sealing job. That'll be "Phase Two" I'm thinking, after I get floor down in the back and start getting the rear put back together. MAY have to pull the dinette bench on that side... depending on what I find up front.

I'm starting to really wish I had dropped the $4k on that 1940s Grumman shell I saw a few years ago, and just rebuilt THAT. Cute 17-19ft TT, body by Grumman. Rivets and sheetmetal I can DO. Carpentry tries my patience.

OH, and after several good downpours, including the thunderstorm rolling through now (The season begins here lol) I have seen no drips or dampness. It DOES appear I've confirmed the culprit for the trashed floor in the back.

[Mach1tosh]

We've had some decent weather here in the northwest so I'm interested to know how your repairs are going?
I don't envy you the mold remediation most of all, it is nasty stuff.
I feel for you having rebuilt the back wall of the motor home we had years go to keep the weather and dust out. Fortunately we didn't have the "growth" situation you've been dealing with.

[Girth]

Originally Posted by Mach1tosh

We've had some decent weather here in the northwest so I'm interested to know how your repairs are going?
I don't envy you the mold remediation most of all, it is nasty stuff.
I feel for you having rebuilt the back wall of the motor home we had years go to keep the weather and dust out. Fortunately we didn't have the "growth" situation you've been dealing with.

Type out a long reply, and logged out again when it went to post.

Long story short.... not much forward movement yet. Still drying it out. Mold seems limited to the OSB, but wood framing still holding too much moisture. A heater made it WORSE. Condensation where the underlayment met the steel frame, and from the aluminum skin. Found another couple leak culprits. Tail light housings, and the entrance door skin itself. Ran through a bunch of masking tape and Dicor last week. Lessons for the new TT owner.... these things are NOT sealed well from the factory. I got a marine product to epoxy seal/penetrate the wood framing and decking. After seeing how things sweat, insulation batting removed will be replaced with foam board, as it should have been built in my mind.

Closing on a new house in a couple weeks hopefully, so a move will be underway. Project will likely continue through winter.

[Mach1tosh]

What a shame. Really makes me want to stay away from a newer Jayco. Our 15 year old is thankfully leak free and low maintenance. I feel for you, all that work that shouldn't have been necessary.

[TCNashville]

Originally Posted by Girth

Type out a long reply, and logged out again when it went to post.

Girth, when you log in check mark the "remember me" box to the right of your user name and it should stop logging you out prematurely.

[chrismoore701]

Dear god. I want to take you out to dinner just to help offset your mind on this nightmare. Couple of thoughts on your situation as mine just got totaled for flooding. My insurance will not cover rot or mold. Period. Try using a dehumidifier that should dry everything out real good. Please keep us posted on your progress with jayco. I think i would definitely go to small claims. Hats off to you for going through all of this. I thought i had patience but you redefine that.

Keep it up

[Girth]

Originally Posted by Mach1tosh

What a shame. Really makes me want to stay away from a newer Jayco. Our 15 year old is thankfully leak free and low maintenance. I feel for you, all that work that shouldn't have been necessary.

Not that I'd wish ill towards anyone.... but the more I take things apart, the more I feel confident that water WILL get in somewhere. Might not be much, and might take years and years for the damage to be evident, but I'd bet it's there. My recommendation for TTs built in this manner, or any of them really, keep them under cover and out of the elements as much as possible, at least if you want them to last a long time.

I've discovered that with warm air inside the TT, the underlayment will sweat moisture into the insulation batting under the floor anyplace its in contact with the cooler steel frame. Noticed that while I had a heater running inside. You'd have to keep their air in there DRY.... and that is difficult in my region.

Originally Posted by TCNashville

Girth, when you log in check mark the "remember me" box to the right of your user name and it should stop logging you out prematurely.

Giving that a try, thanks!

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Dear god. I want to take you out to dinner just to help offset your mind on this nightmare. Couple of thoughts on your situation as mine just got totaled for flooding. My insurance will not cover rot or mold. Period. Try using a dehumidifier that should dry everything out real good. Please keep us posted on your progress with jayco. I think i would definitely go to small claims. Hats off to you for going through all of this. I thought i had patience but you redefine that.

Keep it up

It's mentioned earlier on in the thread, but Jayco pretty much washed their hands of it. Even if the trailer was within they're usual 2yr warranty period, that only applies to the original purchaser. Beware used trailers, even "new" ones. Factory warranty does not apply. Limit on small claims is less than we own on the trailer, so.... Time vs. Money.... I have more time than money. Taking on a legal battle wasn't appealing.

[Girth]

With some clear weather around for a short while, I'm diving in again. Put a coat of some marine pentrating epoxy on the floor supports, peeled a skin panel off the outside on one side, and heading to HomeDepot tomorrow for some insulation board, treated 2x2s, and some plywood for the decking.


Staples.... sooo many staples. Really not a fan of the tape/sealant job on the wheel well trim and corner trim, so I suppose it's good I'm pulling that. Check yours if you haven't! Actually if your TT is more than a few years old, I'd consider pulling all the various trim pieces and resealing. It's really not that difficult, and cheap insurance.



I made a little support to take the load off the top of the awning while I'm working on it. Planning on adding another 2x2 on the inside along where it attaches, and running in some stronger bolts when I'm done. After opening it up, I'm happy to see that outer 2x2 frame is in decent shape, as well as the wall framing is dry. I'll be adding some bracing for the floor decking tomorrow, and will soon be piecing in new decking in the back. Lots of screws... LOTS! My plan is to drill from the outside, and remove the decking under that wall in sections, rather than yank the whole piece and leave that whole end of the wall unsupported.



After peeling off that lower skin panel, it's a bit disappointing (though not surprising now) how poorly the wall it attached to the deck. From the tail to the wheel well, there are just three screws. One in front of the access hatch, and two aft. THAT will be remedied as well. What I CAN'T see, is where the head of that big corner bolt (wood frame to steel frame connection) is located. Its gotta be under the wall framing, but I dunno if its through the decking or under it. THAT might pose and issue.... but I think I can maybe leave a small piece of the old deck there, and splice it into the new.

Now... pics of today's fun.

[Girth]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Dear god. I want to take you out to dinner just to help offset your mind on this nightmare. Couple of thoughts on your situation as mine just got totaled for flooding. My insurance will not cover rot or mold. Period. Try using a dehumidifier that should dry everything out real good. Please keep us posted on your progress with jayco. I think i would definitely go to small claims. Hats off to you for going through all of this. I thought i had patience but you redefine that.

Keep it up

I just found your "Totaled" thread. Not sure if I should say sorry, or congratulation on the new TT. Looks like you were supposed to pick it up today?


I will say... if I were to do it all over again, I would try to find the most solid "oldie" I could get my hands on, for cheaper than dirt.... and then I would "rebuild" it. There really isn't that much to them, and materials are cheap. Pretty much guaranteed that I can make one nicer than the new models are built these days, and for a hell of a lot less money. Everyone needs a hobby, right?

Really REALLY wish I'd dropped the coin on the late '40s Grumman TT shell I saw a few years ago. That would have been a SWEET rig, and the talk of any campground. Could have polished her up, put an astrodome on top, and painted some "nose art" on the front. lol Maybe I'll try to find another.... when I'm free of the current catastrophe.

[Girth]

A bit more than 3200 views on this thread... If anyone is lurking and has a question/suggestion, please feel free to chime in. It's a learning experience for me, so speak up and we can learn together. Maybe you'll stop me from doing something dumb too.



A bit more progress. All the deck framing I epoxy coated Friday, and it's cured enough to proceed... so off we go. Was able to knock a section of the old deck out from under the exterior wall framing as I'd planned. With the siding off, I chain drilled through the edge of the old OSB decking where I wanted the cuts, and punched it out with a small board and hammer. Worked like a charm. Had to take it out in smaller sections, as there were some staples through the decking. (Underlayment wraps over the decking) That lower bit of deck framing (red line in the one photo, shot from the outside) is only really attached at the rearmost end, and at the wheel well, where a bolt runs through the decking and the steel frame. Other than three screws securing the outer wall, through the decking and into that 2x2.... it's pretty much just floating there across that 3ft span. Not seeing a good way to remove those two bolts through the frame (without tearing apart the outer wall, a lot) I elected to leave two small squares of the old decking in place where the bolts pass through. (represented by the light blue lines in the interior photo)

Those small squares of old OSB, I soaked in penetrating epoxy, and they will get screwed down to a 2x3 that I sistered to that outside 2x2 that was mentioned earlier. Also added two sections of 2x2 to support the edge of the new decking(installing it in smaller sections), which are the other red lines in the photo. Once everything is screwed together (Im adding screws to better secure that outer wall to the deck) it should be much better than it was.

Insulation board is in, new decking for that area I just cut (a little tailgate carpentry) but I decided to epoxy the cut edges just for good measure, so waiting for a bit to install. Found a small area of damage to the underlayment, so figured some Gorilla tape would work well enough to patch it up. Its under one of the pieces of foam board.

I DID run across an interesting problem, that I'm not quite sure how to tackle yet. The lower mount for the awning leg was NOT bolted into that outer 2x2 like I'd assumed. Those bolts were ran into the edge of the OSB decking. I'm gonna have to take a look at the awning legs, and see if moving that mount down 3/4in or so will affect anything, in regards to how the awning legs sit. Wonder what idiot installed that?

[Girth]

OK... new decking and insulation down on both sides in the back. Walls once again secured to the deck (better than they were), and the siding and access hatch are back on. Need to finish installing some trim pieces, sealing up some screws, and then edge sealing everything so it's good and weather tight.

Looks like we're signing papers on the new house tomorrow, so I gotta get everything sealed back up and ready for the move. Fortunately its not a long trip.

The only thing better than Amazon delivering as promised (an issue here sometimes) is when you've already got the compressor out, just waiting for the mail lady, and your new tool shows up and it just WORKS. Good thing too, as the sun was fading as I was waiting to button up the underlayment and put the siding back on. Staple staple staple....

[Girth]

OH... but I still have to figure out this awning mount. I'm not sure the support will sit properly if I lower the mount, but I'm not too keen on the idea of reinstalling those lag bolts like they were, ran into the end grain of the decking.
It doesn't look like it would sit properly on the siding either, if I lowered it down, as the siding bumps out at the bottom. Soooo..... I am considering two other options. I either drill new holes in the mount, moving the holes a 1/2in or so. That would likely put the bolts half in the plywood deck and half in the 2x2. The better idea is sounding like making some tapered shims/washers, and running the bolts in at a severe angle, down into the 2x2. Dunno.... I'll sleep on it.

[chrismoore701]

Originally Posted by Girth

OH... but I still have to figure out this awning mount. I'm not sure the support will sit properly if I lower the mount, but I'm not too keen on the idea of reinstalling those lag bolts like they were, ran into the end grain of the decking.
It doesn't look like it would sit properly on the siding either, if I lowered it down, as the siding bumps out at the bottom. Soooo..... I am considering two other options. I either drill new holes in the mount, moving the holes a 1/2in or so. That would likely put the bolts half in the plywood deck and half in the 2x2. The better idea is sounding like making some tapered shims/washers, and running the bolts in at a severe angle, down into the 2x2. Dunno.... I'll sleep on it.

I would look to attach the bracket to the 2x2. Just make sure that it all locks into place when closed. may have to move up or down fraction. I assume you have that sealing putty. Use a lot and it should seal up nice. this will make for a more solid connection. if you screw it between the boards I am afraid it will wiggle loose and cause another leak. That is what was leaking on my trailer. the 2x2 was completely gone in the area of the bracket


picked the new trailer up on Friday. Pros and cons compared to the jayco. over all I couldn't be happier.



Chris