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Old 08-25-2018, 03:40 PM   #1
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Unhappy "Soft" Floor around toilet

We were looking to sell our 2013 154BH, but just discovered the floor in the area around the toilet is soft.

We've seen no evidence of water intrusion on the walls, from the roof vent, etc. Pulled the access panel to reach under the shower tub, and it feels solid in there, and the same for the floor in the storage area under the bunk. Soft areas all around the toilet though, and the vinyl is no longer adhered to the sub floor right outside the bathroom door. I'm thinking I'm either about to loose my tail trying to sell it, or I'm about to have a real good project on my hands.

Maybe a leak from the toilet? At a glance, it wasn't obvious how it was held down to the floor. In that year of TT, is the subfloor particle board? I'm guessing to repair it properly, I'm gonna have to pull the tub, toilet, and possibly the wall between the rear bunks and the bathroom. (there are soft spots all the way up to that wall) Its not obvious how that wall is secured to the trailer though.

If I'm going THAT far..... I might just want to rip out all the vinyl flooring, and go back with some thin laminate. Dunno. Not sure how much of an adventure I'm in for. I considered just ditching the shower/tub and toilet all together, and rebuilding with another sitting/bunk area back there. With three kids now, we're stretching the usefulness of the little TT, but the wife is REAL fond of having a convenient place to pee.


Advice, ideas, suggestions?
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:50 PM   #2
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Water from toilet or if you have boys..................maybe their "aim" is not real good?
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:13 PM   #3
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It should not be hard to repair. My 2011 has plywood there. Just get the potty up and do some looking. Hopefully it won't be a major job to repair and cover the area with a new layer of tile or vinyl.
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:17 PM   #4
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Water from toilet or if you have boys..................maybe their "aim" is not real good?
Just one boy, but he's not to the age where "aim" is required yet. Initially wondered about the flimsy roof vent, want to replace those anyways, but everything is bone dry, so I dunno.


I suspect a seep from the toilet flange, though I have no idea how that is assembled to the floor, and the top of the tank. Certainly possible that it was caused by "splash" from the shower too, though we've always been careful to keep everything dry. Tanks have been empty since we winterized it last winter, as we just haven't had the time to use it all year. Makes me wonder how long it's been like this, but at this point, my concern is more what I'm going to do about it.
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:22 PM   #5
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If you do pull the pottie and replace the floor, don't use a laminate. They are like sponge cake when it comes to fluids.
HD has a selection of vinyl plank flooring that is waterproof and easy to put down. They don't require a vapour barrier or any glue.
Or you could just "take a bath" on the resale if you don't want to get "down and dirty" doing the repair.
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:40 PM   #6
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If you do pull the pottie and replace the floor, don't use a laminate. They are like sponge cake when it comes to fluids.
HD has a selection of vinyl plank flooring that is waterproof and easy to put down. They don't require a vapour barrier or any glue.
Or you could just "take a bath" on the resale if you don't want to get "down and dirty" doing the repair.
That was my thinking, some of that vinyl plank stuff. Haven't really looked into it yet, but hoping it comes thin enough that I don't have much issue with the entrance door threshold, etc. I think that will look much nicer than the original vinyl, and certainly nicer than mismatched vinyl, as I doubt I could find the same flooring as original.

I'm ok taking a bit of a bath on resale, but I'm also stubborn, so will likely be tearing into it. Just another in a long line of kicks in "the boys" lately. Wife's Suburban ate a lifter a couple months ago, so I finally got the engine rebuilt and stuffed back into it last month. Rebuilt the brakes on the "new" truck, and then the pitman arm in the 'Burb started popping last week. In the last six months, there have only been 2 or 3 weekends where I haven't been under a truck.

Im sure I can do it, just not sure how much I want to gut, to get it done. How are the toilets usually attached to the floor/tank? How about the walls surrounding the bath? I'm guessing I'm just gonna have to start pulling trim and screws, and see whats underneath.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:11 PM   #7
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It attaches just like a residential toilet. Once off, and a cloth stuffed gingerly in the hole, you nay be able to determine how extensive the problem is without tearing the whole room apart.

Please keep us posted of the outcome if you have time for our own info.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:37 PM   #8
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I work at HD in Canada and the products aren't always available here and in the US.
If you have a Habitat for Humanity Restore near you check it out for flooring as HD will send discontinued items to Restore here and probably there too.
It's a good way to get stuff at significant discounts.
Look for any pure vinyl plank, either click lock (like laminate) or overlap stick together. The brand name Allure is a good bet. Saves you messing around with glue in a small area, if you've never done it before an RV bathroom is hardly the place to start.
If you can just do the bath area, no spongy past the door, you can put a transition strip under the bathroom door (known as the "half check") and that will make it look like it was intended to look that way.
Then clean it up and slap on the "For Sale" sign.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:57 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
It attaches just like a residential toilet. Once off, and a cloth stuffed gingerly in the hole, you nay be able to determine how extensive the problem is without tearing the whole room apart.

Please keep us posted of the outcome if you have time for our own info.
I guess I didn't look at it that closely. That'll be the first step I guess, yank it out and see what I can see. I will certainly post pics/updates once I start working on it.

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I work at HD in Canada and the products aren't always available here and in the US.
If you have a Habitat for Humanity Restore near you check it out for flooring as HD will send discontinued items to Restore here and probably there too.
It's a good way to get stuff at significant discounts.
Look for any pure vinyl plank, either click lock (like laminate) or overlap stick together. The brand name Allure is a good bet. Saves you messing around with glue in a small area, if you've never done it before an RV bathroom is hardly the place to start.
If you can just do the bath area, no spongy past the door, you can put a transition strip under the bathroom door (known as the "half check") and that will make it look like it was intended to look that way.
Then clean it up and slap on the "For Sale" sign.
Bon Chance
There is actually a Habitat for Humanity store about 20 minutes away. I will check them out, thanks.

I can't say I've ever glued a floor down. I've done my fair share of tile, but never actually glue. I guess we'll see when I start cutting into it.
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Old 08-31-2018, 03:40 PM   #10
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Well it's worse than I'd hoped, and doesn't appear to be the toilet. OSB in the immediate area of the toilet flange looks "ok". The worst of it seems to be from the wall separating the bunks from the bathroom. The damage is more extensive than expected too. Looks like the vent stack for the black water tank is inside that wall. We'll see when I open it up.

Soooo... I likely get to pull that stub wall, and since I'm sure it supports the bunks too, pull those. Major surgery is in my future apparently.

I emailed Jayco customer support, asking for any floor/wall framing drawings they might have, but haven't heard back. Is it better to call them?


On hold for today, until I get a respirator. Looking at the mold/mildew growth, I don't want to stir that up any more than I have without some PPE. If the weather holds, I'll start ripping and tearing tomorrow afternoon. Pop that wall open, remove the bathroom door/frame, probably pull out the tub/shower, and see if I can figure how the bunks are attached.

annnd, no idea why the images uploaded sideways.
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Old 08-31-2018, 03:52 PM   #11
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Have your VIN# in hand and call them. Folks here have said they are quick to send the diagrams.

You might consider asking them for the plumbing and electrical schematics, too. Hopefully you won't need them, but....
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Old 08-31-2018, 04:00 PM   #12
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Have your VIN# in hand and call them. Folks here have said they are quick to send the diagrams.

You might consider asking them for the plumbing and electrical schematics, too. Hopefully you won't need them, but....
Late in the day, and with my luck they're closed Monday, but I'll try giving them a call. Their website DID say they were slow to reply to email.

We'll see when I get to cutting the floor, but I have a feeling I may end up dropping the black tank. I have this hunch that all of the plumbing connections to the tank are probably glued and not threaded. Gonna do my best to cut smartly and avoid causing damage that isn't easily repaired..... but preparing myself for more bad news. If it gets that far, I suppose I may as well look into upgrading tank level probes, installing a spray flush system, and god knows what else. Maybe replacing the tank is the best option?

Its gonna be some work, and the wife is beyond unhappy, but it should be a lot nicer when Im done!
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Old 08-31-2018, 04:12 PM   #13
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IMO, if you do add a black tank flush, try to have it oriented so it sprays on the sensor location. Some folks with factory black tank flush systems say their gauges read just fine, others, like me, say NO WAY! IMO, it seem likely that it depends on where in the tank the flush system sprays.

BTW, I didn't notice if you found the source of the water leak that caused your problems.
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Old 08-31-2018, 04:19 PM   #14
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IMO, if you do add a black tank flush, try to have it oriented so it sprays on the sensor location. Some folks with factory black tank flush systems say their gauges read just fine, others, like me, say NO WAY! IMO, it seem likely that it depends on where in the tank the flush system sprays.

BTW, I didn't notice if you found the source of the water leak that caused your problems.
Very basic tank level system in this little trailer, so an upgrade couldn't hurt. Good tip on the flush system orientation. Something else to look into....

Not sure what the source is yet. I'd first assumed toilet or shower, but I'm leaning towards the vent stack now, after seeing where the damage is worst. Won't know for sure until I REALLY open it up.
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Old 09-01-2018, 02:37 PM   #15
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Can I get a Mod to retitle this thread? "2013 154BH Floor Damage/Repair" or something along those lines? This is going beyond the simple ask for help thread.

Anyone ever have luck getting Jayco to pony up for repairs/buy you out, or do anything, years after the warranty is expired?

Looks like my assumption on the cause of the soft floor was correct, and there isn't a thing we could have done about it. It's been a manufacturing defect from day one. That vent stack for the black tank was never connected!

A bunch of careful prying with a putty knife and screwdriver, and I got the luan popped off of the wall. Being happy to have found the likely cause, quickly turned to being rather "upset" knowing this was all caused by shoddy workmanship.

It's a bit depressing seeing how those walls are built too. It's gonna have to come out, but that will be fun in itself. The top plate is screwed to the ceiling, from ABOVE.... so I'm gonna have to carefully leave that in place, and cut the bottom loose.

Should be a fun phone call, when I finally get Jayco on the phone.
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Old 09-01-2018, 03:17 PM   #16
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That is so pathetic! No quality in workmanship or materials. I can't believe the "studs" LOL that they use in the walls. Reminds me more of matchsticks.
I don't think you stand a "Rat's Chance" of getting them to help you out..............that would be a miracle on a 2013.
I think if I were you I would fix and put it back together as best possible...........sell it just to get from underneath of it. If you are going to continue RVing in your part of the Country is Northwood Mfg. Builders of Arctic Fox, ORV's. Tour their plants to see that there are still some good RV manufacturers. Best of luck to you
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Old 09-01-2018, 03:35 PM   #17
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That is so pathetic! No quality in workmanship or materials. I can't believe the "studs" LOL that they use in the walls. Reminds me more of matchsticks.
I don't think you stand a "Rat's Chance" of getting them to help you out..............that would be a miracle on a 2013.
I think if I were you I would fix and put it back together as best possible...........sell it just to get from underneath of it. If you are going to continue RVing in your part of the Country is Northwood Mfg. Builders of Arctic Fox, ORV's. Tour their plants to see that there are still some good RV manufacturers. Best of luck to you
I'm not too surprised to see the "lumber" that was used in the walls, as it IS marketed as a lightweight trailer. It seems to be REALLY soft pine too, basically junk wood. I COULD rebuild everything stout as can be.... but I do have to keep added weight in mind. The plan was new vinyl plank flooring, which will add a bit of weight, not to mention any carpentry/repairs I do under the floor. The bunk framing and that wall will need to come out, so it's going to get put back together better than it was. First I need to assess how far the damage to the floor decking goes.

The plan IS to fix it, though I'm now curious to see what Jayco will say. I sent them a message on Facebook, pics are posted, and the wife said she's gonna come at them through her Instagram. Social media..... it's dumb, but sometimes a very powerful tool.

I don't suppose Jayco follows this forum at all?
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:08 PM   #18
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It took a couple hours, but I got the bunks out. That was fun. The respirator was a good idea. It was BAD under the vinyl in that storage area under the bunks. My foot darn near when through the floor, while struggling to remove some of the screws securing the frame for the top bunk.


Probably the worst area of damage so far too, and the mildew/discoloration looks like it DOES extend all the way to the outer wall. Not quite sure how to deal with that, as obviously supporting/securing the outer walls to the deck is somewhat critical. The wood out there isn't soft/totally rotten like it is further in, but I'm still not happy about it. Thankful for small favors, the rear wall of the trailer is NOT on top of the deck. I can see where the vinyl wraps over the edge.


Gonna let it air out for a day, and then I think I'm gonna pull the shower tub.
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Old 09-02-2018, 09:21 AM   #19
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Holy crap

That's some major damage. Looks like a Monday morning/Friday afternoon mistake.
You're git 'er done attitude is commendable. Most would have thrown in the towel by now.
With regard to compensation given that the missing connector is not readily apparent and the damage resulting from it cumulative and not easily noticed within warranty you may want to consider a small claims court approach. Those connectors are less than $2 and it shouldn't cost you due to negligence on the part of the manufacturer.
Depending on the amount of your claim Jayco may prefer to settle as opposed to sending a representative/lawyer (big $$). Keep all your receipts and keep taking pictures, evidence is key. The better your case to prove negligence on their part the more likely you'll have a good outcome.
I wish you luck and will continue to follow your progress.
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Old 09-02-2018, 10:12 AM   #20
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That's some major damage. Looks like a Monday morning/Friday afternoon mistake.
You're git 'er done attitude is commendable. Most would have thrown in the towel by now.
With regard to compensation given that the missing connector is not readily apparent and the damage resulting from it cumulative and not easily noticed within warranty you may want to consider a small claims court approach. Those connectors are less than $2 and it shouldn't cost you due to negligence on the part of the manufacturer.
Depending on the amount of your claim Jayco may prefer to settle as opposed to sending a representative/lawyer (big $$). Keep all your receipts and keep taking pictures, evidence is key. The better your case to prove negligence on their part the more likely you'll have a good outcome.
I wish you luck and will continue to follow your progress.
Well it's not like I have much choice, as it needs to be fixed, and I'm sure not willing to pay someone else to do what I can do on my own. It IS certainly looking to be more work than I wanted to do though.

It's not that the connector/union isn't there, it clearly is, but the stack was never in it! The plywood biscuit from a hole saw is what you see in that pic, with the pipe for the roof vent sitting on top of it.

The notion of legal action has been considered. If the outcome is not in my favor, it would likely cost me much more than repairing it myself. At this point I'm certain it will never be 100% again, though it will sure look better than it did when new. Just HOW I'm gonna deal with damage at/under the side walls, I'm not sure yet. Considering epoxy to stabilize the damaged OSB, and lapping the new floor to the old at the sides.

Now for the fun news. Considering what caused this, and how it was assembled, this could be a likely issue in most ALL of their trailers. If that vent stack is cut through the roofing and just shoved down inside the wall..... that means the connection at the union above the floor is never sealed. I don't recall seeing any evidence of glue on the end of that pipe, but I can take a closer look later. How's that for a happy thought?
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