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Old 10-09-2020, 02:13 PM   #1
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Sticky gray water valve

One of my grey water dump valves has been sticky since new and it's not getting any better . It has the rod and handle attched directly to it with no cable.How can I fix it, I have a 28.5 RSTS with the belly cover under the frame. Do you have to take the entire belly cover off from the valves forward or cut a hole in it and patch it up? Any ideas?
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:25 PM   #2
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Watch the attached video. It shows how to repair a sticky valve.

My valves were hard to push/pull and didn't easily want to close all the way. I did this modification, which consists of drilling a hole into the valve and injecting a lubricant, and it completely solved my problem. They have been smooth ever since. I was hesitant to do the mod but am so happy I finally did it. Valves have been smooth for a year so far.

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Old 10-09-2020, 02:36 PM   #3
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How do you get to the valves, do you have to take the belly pan off ?
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Old 10-09-2020, 03:08 PM   #4
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I am not familiar with your rig but it sounds like only the valve handles are visible. On my rig the valves are like low hanging fruit on a tree - hanging down below the bottom of the motor home.

Someone out there will be able to answer this question. In the meantime you could try squirting some silicon spray on the rod. Pull the handle out and spray the rod and work it in and out. That has worked for me in the past.
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Old 10-10-2020, 06:18 AM   #5
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Howdy Hyper-- They make a additive that goes into your holding tanks that I have used and seen fair to good improvement with mine. I love the fix JimD provided, that will be my next RX when they get sticky again.
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Old 10-10-2020, 08:54 AM   #6
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A dose of Baby Oil, or similar light oil into the toilet or shower drain (or both). In the toilet it helps lube the rubber seal and into the tanks it lubes the valve seals. I saw this on some RV site some years back as part of the maintenance of various seals in the RV.
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:53 AM   #7
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I would not use baby oil. It may harm the rubber seals. Thetford makes a quart size seal lubricant you pour down the toilet to lube that seal and the main black valve. You can also by a 3-M spray product specifically for rubber seals which is probably pure silicone product.
I am going to drill my valves, spray in some 3-M and put in a stainless short screw to seal the hole before next year. Preventive maintenance!

Never use anything other than products marked for rubber as they will invariably harm the rubber.
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Old 10-10-2020, 12:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerR View Post
I would not use baby oil. It may harm the rubber seals. Thetford makes a quart size seal lubricant you pour down the toilet to lube that seal and the main black valve. You can also by a 3-M spray product specifically for rubber seals which is probably pure silicone product.
I am going to drill my valves, spray in some 3-M and put in a stainless short screw to seal the hole before next year. Preventive maintenance!

Never use anything other than products marked for rubber as they will invariably harm the rubber.
You’re kidding right? Read what baby oil has in it and do you think they would be still selling something that goes on a baby’s bum if it were dangerous?

There are several posts by various RV instruction blogs about using baby oil. After 4 RVs I have yet to replace any of those seals.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:03 PM   #9
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Meryl and Me Hit the Road: Lubricating the Waste Tank Seals and Macerator


Baby oil is mineral oil.
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Old 10-13-2020, 05:27 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the input, I ordered some underbelly repair / seam tape and decided to cut a door in the belly and do the lube mod to the valve and tape it closed when finished .
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Old 10-13-2020, 06:13 PM   #11
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I have an HT 30.5 CKTS. The valve for my rear gray tank (kitchen) is a bit sticky and feels somewhat flimsy. When it was only a few months old, the long threaded rod came loose from the valve body. I had to drop the entire coroplast underbelly to access it. The pull rod was never tightened to the valve body at the factory. When I was working on that issue, I saw that the plumbing is routed rearward and then it turns forward to get to the main waste dump line. The valve was not that well supported and was not attached right at the tank discharge outlet. That all results in the flimsy feel I get, and exacerbates the valve being sticky. You could try some of the available valve lubricants you can dump into the tank, but my guess is you may either live with it or access it by dropping the entire underbelly coroplast. I think the majority of those gate valve issues are with the gasket seating inside the valve itself, and that is not easily accessible without disassembly of the valve. I would try to address it first with some tank treatment.
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Old 05-18-2022, 12:01 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JimD View Post
Watch the attached video. It shows how to repair a sticky valve.

My valves were hard to push/pull and didn't easily want to close all the way. I did this modification, which consists of drilling a hole into the valve and injecting a lubricant, and it completely solved my problem. They have been smooth ever since. I was hesitant to do the mod but am so happy I finally did it. Valves have been smooth for a year so far.



I’ve done this for the past 5 years, works great! Just be sure to use SS screws.
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