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Old 04-23-2024, 07:03 AM   #1
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Question Strike plate stripped screw holes

I've done a little digging and found this can be a common issue but I haven't really found any 'common' or typical fixes. The metal screw holes for the striker plate for my main door in our 2014 Jayco Pinnacle 38 FLFS are stripped. I was having issues with the door shutting properly and realized the plate was loose so I tried tightening it and even with gentle force the screws would just spin.

I've seen a couple of ideas to fix it; cut, drill and tap a new piece of metal and put it in the bore void, try to find bigger metal screws and cut new threads, hammer the metal flat to tighten the threads

I was just curious if anyone here has run into this and what they did to fix it. The plate certainly can get a workout over a season so I'm not sure many of these fixes would last long

Thoughts?
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Old 04-23-2024, 07:09 AM   #2
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Can you get longer screws and take them all the way into the aluminum framing?
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Old 04-23-2024, 07:31 AM   #3
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Can you get longer screws and take them all the way into the aluminum framing?
... now that is a great question. I never even considered going longer. I'm heading out to the rig next week so looking for ideas like this to take with me since there's not a lot of options or stores close by. I'm not sure if this is possible but I'm going to take out some longer screws and drill bits (or self tappers) for sure now.
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Old 04-23-2024, 08:33 AM   #4
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Had this issue with an old Youngstown brand metal kitchen. Way cheaper than buying an entire kitchen cabinet swap out. Solution: Bought self tapping screws of the same size with heads that work in the old hinge. In my case those were trumpet heads..your's may be different. The hardware store ACE or TruValue have those Hillenbrand isles full of drawers...that's most likely where you'll find what you need. Filled the holes with good and cheap epoxy glue and stuffed hardwood toothpicks into the holes leaving them hang out until the cure was done. Before you put the toothpicks in, cut the points down to the fatest diameter of the pick. It'll give a better tooth and bottoming in the hole. Then used my utility knife to trim back flush after the cure of the epoxy was complete. The hardwood toothpicks are the round sharp ones. The self tapping screws have the tooth of a wood screw and hang onto the filler in the holes quite well. You may have to drill out the hole to make it larger diameter to make a more secure install. Size matters.
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Old 04-23-2024, 09:17 AM   #5
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The past three Jayco TT that I have owned has required a complete alteration of the striker plate. In conjunction to reversing the plate and using longer screws, I have had to use thickened 5 minute epoxy behind the main bar on the keeper so that when slamming the door it does not bend inward causing the keeper not to work. Its really a simple fix. If you need pictures let me know.
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Old 04-23-2024, 09:19 AM   #6
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If you could send pictures of your fix I would greatly appreciate it.
I hate the way my door latches.
Thanks
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Old 04-24-2024, 07:55 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jayflight 23 View Post
The past three Jayco TT that I have owned has required a complete alteration of the striker plate. In conjunction to reversing the plate and using longer screws, I have had to use thickened 5 minute epoxy behind the main bar on the keeper so that when slamming the door it does not bend inward causing the keeper not to work. Its really a simple fix. If you need pictures let me know.
I would love to see pictures. My lock hitting the striker plate seems to be the reason it's loosened so I saw some video of someone hammering it flatter. I like it sealing well but there's no way the door should need this much convincing to close. I've tried lubricating everything in the lock and it moved very well but it still hits that plate hard from sticking out so far.

I still need to fix the stripped hole issues (thank you everyone for your suggestions I'm loading up a tool box with everything suggested so something should freak'n work!) but I'd also like to prevent it from getting all loose again too.
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Old 04-24-2024, 08:14 AM   #8
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I am working to get a couple of shots on my striker plate. But my regular camera that works in conjunction with the SD card has a battery that no longer charges. So I will take it by phone later and then transfer it to my desk top . If you go with a size larger and longer, the screws works just fine and holds in the door jam.
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Old 04-24-2024, 09:29 AM   #9
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Mix some JB Weld together and pack it in behind the striker plate. Then just drill two pilot holes for the screws after it dries.
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Old 05-01-2024, 05:34 PM   #10
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Thumbs up Fixed!

Ok so I brought out all kinds of things (which are going to stay out at the lake). I initially tried fixing this a few years ago by drilling new holes just beside which worked 'ok'. I decided to try the least effort solution first and just put longer screws in. I have some 1" self tappers (it's about 3/4" to the next metal part of the frame). Worked like a charm. Images attached for reference. Thanks again everyone for the suggestions.
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20240501_154420.jpg   20240501_154437.jpg   20240501_172749.jpg   20240501_172738.jpg  
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Old 05-04-2024, 12:07 PM   #11
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Look for a “nutsert” at your big box store. I did a quick search and found some at Menards. You need to enlarge the holes and install one in each hole and then you use a Machine thread screw in place of the sheet metal screw.
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