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Old 07-22-2020, 01:03 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JCM View Post
The square name is Robertson. It is a Canadian patent so other manufacturers that try to get by the rolaties change their name to "square". it is the easiest screw to use as it will sit on the driver without falling off and can't strip like the Philips. Therefore it is great for reaching into cupboards or working above your head -- just a bit of trivia.


I've been using Robertsons since the early 80's and still have 2 of the original screwdrivers from that era.
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Old 07-22-2020, 01:21 PM   #22
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Thanks for the video. Many things I didn't know.
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Old 07-22-2020, 01:32 PM   #23
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In hopes you never need them HF tools are the best, cheap !!!!!!!!!.
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Old 07-22-2020, 02:12 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Rustynuts View Post
Besides the usual hand tools, multi-meter, roll of Eternabond tape, I carry 6’ of pex and assortment of fittings, Gorilla Tape (better than duct tape), assortment of 12 fuses, 15 and 20 breaker for AC power, assorted wiring crimp fittings and zipties....lots of zipties. All but the pex stuff fits in my custom tool box.

These look like standard slides. How did you attach them or did you just build a freestanding box to put in the storage area.

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Old 07-22-2020, 02:46 PM   #25
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Whatever you take, you will never have the right tool. So when you invest in a tool box, get one that is as big as you have space for because over time you will be filling it with stuff you didn't know you needed. Probably the handiest thing in my tool box has been a square screwdriver drive, with a long reach. Very handy if you have to get those honeycomb curtains down. Also my tool box has at least two each of every fuse on my rig. Never go anywhere without duct tape and zip ties, that will get you out of lots of situations, and back on the road. Box contains a complement of wrenches, screwdrivers, allen wrenches, sockets, box and adjustable wrenches, including metric. Volt meter is always handy too. Don't forget tire tools, pressure guages, portable air compressors. The list goes on and on.
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Old 07-22-2020, 02:52 PM   #26
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Seems like you need to take everything!

All of the responses have listed good stuff to have a long, some pretty good advice out there. You're own capabilities should determine what tools you need also.

I added a 1/2" battery powered impact wrench and sockets to fit my pickup and camper. I'm not as young as I used to be and had a flat in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone reception, no auto club. It took every bit of strength I could muster (and then some) with a good 4 way lug wrench and my DW cheering me on to get that wheel off. That gun is pretty handy to have around, even use it at home.
2016 Jayco North Point 377RLBH with Jayco Luxury package, Washer, Dryer and Generator.
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:59 PM   #27
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And, no one has mentioned the most critical tool of all. A high limit credit with a zero balance.
2019 28.5RSTS
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Old 07-22-2020, 05:01 PM   #28
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I don't think these were mentioned, so I'll add:

Light duty knee pads. https://www.amazon.com/NoCry-Home-Ga...ag=googhydr-20

Throw rugs that can serve as a "mechanic's dolly" if you need to get down and dirty under the rig.

Good set of drill bits and driver bits to go with your absolutely essential cordless drill. My rule of thumb: things that cut must be good quality. Milwaukee makes good drill bits (as do others), but cheap bits are a bad investment. Meanwhile, a so-so drill is fantastic. I have a Porter Cable (cheap version of DeWalt) 20 volt cordless drill https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABL...luded/50125879 that can move my camper using a Trailer Valet. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Valet...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Might have missed this: Crimp connectors and wire stripper tools. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

A MUST HAVE: https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Heavy...5458467&sr=8-2 Caster or standard "mushroom" foot, this is just the nuts. On a slight side hill, it creates a solid base for the tongue jack to rest and not creep downhill. And it spreads the load over a wider area. Mine is over 10 years old. Wouldn't be without it.

4 lb. mini sledge...great for setting up a horseshoe pit. It will also straighten "bent things" (such as stairs) and serve as a backing-up hammer (and anvil) for your regular hammer. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HART-4-l...-204280967-_-N

Mentioned, but my take: "Straight Claw" 16 oz. hammer - great for PULLING tent stakes. I'm 71, and I've had my Estwing since my Grandmother gave it to me when I was a kid. https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Hamme...5457159&sr=8-9

Lightweight pick-mattock https://www.walmart.com/ip/5Lb-Fbg-P...ttock/39087560 Why on Earth?? We boondock exclusively, often lakeside. Ever see a lake shore that's level? The pick-mattock can scour out a hole for the "uphill" tires fairly quickly and easily, and this way you can level your camper without the downhill side teetering up in the sky.
Also, your pick-mattock can hack out two nice, soft, fluffy horseshoe pits in a few minutes.

Speaking of leveling: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Chock-E...5458220&sr=8-3 or https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Lev...5458259&sr=8-5
I have both, but the curved ones are my favorite. BUT, they don't work well on dirt, because they sink. So I have 3/4" plywood and the supplied rubber pads (from Camco), and the plywood (12" by 24" per axle) keeps the leveler from sinking into the dirt. The 3-step model doesn't need the wood, but it's not as precise. Anderson makes the rocker levelers, too...more expensive and they don't work as well with two axles (which I have).

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Old 07-22-2020, 05:53 PM   #29
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I had those and more - soldering iron, hole saws, glue gun and on in my 40 foot DP about 4,000 lbs. BUT now I have downsized to a 25 foot Leisure Travel van Wonder - which ones do I put in then since it can only carry 850 lbs. Oh yes you forgot the Gorilla tape and glue.
It is fun to tinker.
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Old 07-22-2020, 06:24 PM   #30
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The tool I use EVERY time we set up or take down: my 8 inch channel locks for pesky dripping hose attachments.
Dave Lisa and Katie
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:33 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Tanktread View Post
Hey all. New to the Jayco family. Purchased a 2000 Heritage Manistee a few weeks ago. It's in great shape!

On our last trip I had to borrow a socket set to do some work on the stabilizers while still at the campground. I figured it would be a good idea to pick up a small mechanics set.

What are your "necessary" tools that you always take with you when you travel?

If you donít have a large selection of tools now, make a list bolts/nut sizes, then go to HF, pick up a mid-size socket set (impact rated!), tool bag, box wrenches, a pry bar, large 3-4lb sledgehammer, 2-3 orange cones, a 12 ton bottle jack. HF makes a impact rated tire changing socket ďkitĒ that Iíve used to remove the lug on my Dually.

Invest in a quality 1/2Ē battery operated impact Wrench Dewalt, Milwaukee etc, this will allow you to change a flat tire in under 15 minutes! The speed isnít important until you have a flat tire on the driverís side on a narrow road with a narrow shoulder at night! Pick up a green or orange safety vest too!
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Old 07-22-2020, 09:48 PM   #32
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Of all the tools mentioned... I have most.... but must add a strap wrench to your list. And assorted funnels.
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Old 07-23-2020, 10:41 AM   #33
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Tools - kinda:
If you travel rough roads...dirt or crumbling pavement...things fall apart quickly and often. I travel about 11 miles into a washboarded, potholed gravel road to get to my favorite spot (photo). The first task on arrival at the site or home is to look for screws and other parts on the floor.

1. A well stocked bin of hardware in various sizes...all stainless (compatible with aluminum and does not rust...also much stronger than aluminum screws). Selection of crews up to #14 of various lengths; bolts various sizes and lengths; 1/4"x20 nylock nuts; washers; and some of these can be handy: https://henrysautowarehouse.com/wp-c...rt-293x300.jpg
2. Gorilla Glue. This works similarly to LocTite in wood. If a screw comes out, choose a larger screw and add Gorilla Glue. The screw will not come out again, but you can remove it with an impact driver.
3. I mentioned LocTite for bolts.
4. If you have screws strip out of the fiberglass, this stuff was recommended: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Once opened, this stuff dries up (cures) in the tube quickly, so plan on buying as needed. Replace original screws with larger ones, add a dab to the hole and some on the threads. Tighten gently and let the adhesive do its job. I just completed a repair with this stuff.
5. If you have zerk fittings on your axles, you'll need a grease gun. And you should grease the hitch ball and coupler. Also, WD-40 or similar will keep the coupler latch working smoothly.
6. Rustoleum black paint...or "matching" colors. Gorilla Glue and other adhesives on screw threads always make a bit of a mess. If possible, scrape off excess, then spray a bit of paint into a paper cup and dab it on with an artist brush.
7. Your year 2000 canvas may need repair. If a seam lets go, one of these can sew it: https://smile.amazon.com/Upholstery-...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Get some sealer to put over the new sewing repair so the threads don't pull water into the canvas.
8. Your year 2000 canvas may tear. This stuff works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Awnin...5519546&sr=8-2 Clean the surface well. Use quality scissors and make round corners for best adhesion. I patched a nick in the canvas, and the patch lasted years. A bed slide tore a 3" x 3" triangle tear in a rain flap on the side wall, and I had to repair it twice in 3 years...and the dealer was thrilled with my trade in.

OK, out of gas on "stuff" again. You don't need to have all this stuff with you all the time, but you'll probably need it sooner or later. Good to have at home. But Gorilla Glue comes in single use tubes the size of super-glues, and a few spare screws and bolts might just save your weekend.

ALSO: Looking at photos of your rig, it seems to sit low. Consider "flipping the axle" (leaf springs) or a lift kit (torsion axle) for ground clearance. If you go anywhere other than paved roads, you may drag stuff and cause damage. Lifting the rig is a great way to open your horizons for dispersed camping in the boonies. My Rockwood HW-277 PUP dragged its stairs often - to the point where I carried a full-sized 6# sledge to make them usable - until I lifted the torsion axle for more ground clearance.

And if you boondock, you're going to carry water in your freshwater tank. Check out the supports under the tank. My PUP had a 20 gallon tank that cracked and leaked (and had to be replaced) because it was not well supported. I took advantage of some plumbing "looms" on the frame and added support (photo). But there are many ways to achieve this goal. Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. Anything over 10 gallons puts a LOT of strain on the fresh tank, especially when boondocking.
If you boondock, you'll run out of water quickly. These are great: https://smile.amazon.com/Reliance-Pr...a-6185fb77bc58 I made an adapter out of a spare cap, a 1/2" NPT to barb fitting, some 1/2" clear plastic hose (about 18"), and a hose clamp. I can pour from the jug into the fresh tank very easily without spilling.

I don't know what you have for a tow vehicle (TV), but watch your weights and choose what goes with you vs what stays at home carefully. One Reliance jug of water weighs 60 pounds. I have a half-ton pickup (7700# max tow weight), so, with my relatively light (6000# rig/600#tongue weight), I carry LOTS in the pickup bed...and load the trailer with things I don't want to mess with if I must use the truck between trips. The truck bed has: 4 water jugs; 2 x 20# propane tanks (for propane fire pit - we have lots of fire bans in CO); dog pen; 2 chairs; two side tables; large cooler for drinks/ice; 1 gallon gas can for generator. I have an aluminum truck bed toolbox as my trunk, and everything from boat anchors to rope to digging tools and hammers to wheel chocks, and so on is in that toolbox. If you have a small SUV or minivan to tow, you'll need to leave a lot of stuff at home. But you need STUFF to keep this party going.

If you camp where there's no power, you NEED a generator - Harbor Freight makes a damned good inverter generator for less than $500 - and maybe solar to support it. I put a 100 watt Windy Nation system on the roof of my PUP, and with judicious use of 12 volt power, I could boondock indefinitely. I fired up the genny twice a day for 15 to 20 minutes to make espresso/lattes (yup, camping). During that time, assuming about 30 amps charge rate, I'd add 7 to 10 amp hours (AH) per run to my group 24 marine battery (the chintzy thing that comes with new campers). The solar did the rest. I NEVER ran out of power...but I was very careful how I used it. My new rig has 400 watts and 2 x 6-volt golf cart batteries...and we use the lights and stereo without a care. It will run a CPAP overnight (for a guest) effortlessly.
We are in sunny Colorado. Photos.

Warning: Most campers/RVs are made to work best at RV parks...hooked up to shore power and "city" water. If you really go "camping" in them, they aren't really up to the rigors of that activity unless you beef them up a bit. That freshwater tank ain't really made to carry fresh water any distance!!
The same is true of many of the bits and piece on the typical rig. If you really take advantage and go into the national forest or by a remote lake, you need to be prepared to both fix things and to reinforce the things that can't take the heat of rough roads, non-level sites, no power, and so on.

Be patient, and adjust your expectations. You just bought a 20 year old home on wheels for (I expect) $3000 to $4000, and you need to be realistic about having all that capability in something that costs the price of a really nice television or fridge. My brand new rig cost about $30,000 all in with extras, tax, tags, and so on. That's the price of a DECK on your home. Yet my RV is able to travel anywhere and has all the amenities of a house...but portable. I bought it new last November. I've already done about 40 hours of work to modify it and keep it repaired, but take another look at that lakeside photo. It lets me be THERE.
Attached Thumbnails
Fresh Water Support.jpg   ~ Lake Wellington small.jpg   Camper Solar.jpg   Solar on Jayco Close.jpg  
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:06 AM   #34
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How old are the tires on your year 2000 rig? If they are 5 or 6 years old, buy new ones! A blowout can shred the wheel well, floor, and side wall of your precious new camper. Repairs can run up to about $2000 for such damage. Don't take chances with tires. You'll read lots of posts on tires in the forum.
If you can get Goodyears, buy them. Don't mess with tires made in China if you can avoid it. Many are OK, but the Goodyears are the best...most reliable.

And on the subject of tires, you need a decent jack (your car jack won't do), and you need a really good lug wrench.
Harbor Freight has wonderful low profile hydraulic bottle jacks. https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tle-jacks.html Amazon and Walmart have a terrific lug wrench: https://smile.amazon.com/EPAuto-Tele...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

It's bad enough to get a flat, but what's worse is discovering that your lug nuts are frozen on. That lug wrench won't take no for an answer. Use your foot if necessary. The metric sizes coincide with SAE sizes on American cars...not to worry.

About flats: many people use their "work" pickup truck to go camping. I've picked up about half a dozen brand new deck screws in my tires over the years, because all that crap rattles out of their truck beds on the way to the campground. Nothing I can do about it other than be prepared. It's likely to happen to you, too.

If you're thinking of a portable compressor to fill a leaking tire, remember that most trailer tires require high pressures...from 50 to 80 PSI or more. The junk compressors that plug into a cigarette lighter won't cut it. They have plastic pumps that melt, and they can usually only REALLY make about 30 PSI (regardless of claim). If you choose to get a compressor, this is bare minimum. https://smile.amazon.com/VIAIR-90P-P...%2C199&sr=8-29 Note that it connects directly to your TV battery (engine running, because it draws up to 23 amps - your cigarette lighter socket can provide about 5 amps). Use your jumper cables as an extension cord if necessary, or tap your PUP battery (connected to the TV/engine running). Note that the "duty cycle" on this is only 15%...which means you can run it about 9 minutes before giving it a rest for 51 minutes. Imagine the duty cycle on one of those plastic junkers.
You can do better, but this is a REAL air compressor that will easily inflate a trailer tire to the proper PSI.
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:46 AM   #35
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that toolbox ROCKS!
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:36 AM   #36
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Luck favors the prepared. I was carrying a lot of tools but I've started pairing it down a bit recently to shed some weight. Some of this is specific to travel trailers.

Here's my list (in no order):

Dewalt cordless drill with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 socket adapters (used mostly for leveling jacks)
Carpenter's level
1/2" ratcheting large breaker bar (snap-on)
3/4" torque wrench (larger, higher capacity for torquing hitch ball)
All necessary sockets for any bolt or nut on the WD hitch
Large adjustable wrench
Standard assortment of SAE and Metric 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets and
sockets (I used to also carry 1/2" but never used them. Now I only carry 1/2" sockets required for the hitch and ball)
Wire strippers
Diagonal cutters
Pop-rivet gun and tri-star rivets
PEX crimper for plumbing
Spare PEX red and blue tubing
PEX clamps
6-ton jack stand
12-ton bottle jack
Funnels (mostly for diesel additives and other tow vehicle fluids)
Spare 2-5/16 standard ball receiver (in case the WD hitch is damaged)
Ratchet straps

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, LOL. I'm seriously looking at the new Weighsafe WD hitch too. It uses pins rather than bolts - so no need for big sockets. That would cut several pounds out of my tool box!
"Harvey" Ė 2018 Eagle HT TT 314BHDS, Girard tankless, 16" Goodyears, 2nd A/C, LG countertop, frameless tinted windows
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Old 07-30-2020, 01:15 PM   #37
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I was in Branson, noticed by hitch ball was loose. The only way to tighten it was with a deep socket.

Also have sway bar balls that occasionally get loose.

The only place in town that had what I needed was (thankfully) a Tractor Supply.

So, whatever you need to tighten your balls.
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Old 07-30-2020, 03:43 PM   #38
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Angry Hate That!

Originally Posted by garywilson View Post
I was in Branson, noticed by hitch ball was loose. The only way to tighten it was with a deep socket.

Also have sway bar balls that occasionally get loose.

The only place in town that had what I needed was (thankfully) a Tractor Supply.

So, whatever you need to tighten your balls.
I hate loose balls! They're just .....ugh!
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:44 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Riverman View Post
My best tool is my WeBoost cell booster and yagi antenna.
hmmmm still?
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Old 08-01-2020, 01:09 PM   #40
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After a trip that I had a tire with a slow leak from the valve stem that was cracked, I bought the viair RV portable air compressor to take with me.
I have an assortment of tools in the RV that would allow me to make simple repairs.
I also have a wire repair kit that I built that has splices, wire, tape, fuses and stuff in it. It is usually in the Jeep, but now also resides in the RV storage compartment.
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